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remout

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About remout

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  1. 1971 2002 race car with Volvo calipers and 13" Panasports. The calipers come close to the inside of the wheel but do not rub, close enough that I would not be able to use wheel weights. Is it okay as long as it doesn't rub? Thanks!
  2. Looking great! Aug 28 was the first post and you're going Auto Xing end of Oct... Way to get it done! I've only driven one 2002 and it's our race car. It was built for SCCA ITB, so nothing special in the motor or brake dept. I cannot bottom out the pedal and I'd be concerned if I could. Assuming your parts are well matched or stock I'm wondering if you might have a touch of air still in the system? I've bled ours manually and with a pressure bleeder. Got good results both ways, seems like the only advantage of the pressure bleeder is it turned it into a one person job. If you bleed them again and there is a bit of air, it might be that when you replaced everything you introduced a bit of air in. Sometimes it take a lot of bleeding to get that all out.
  3. Road test: We dropped in IEs electronic dizzy, set the timing based on the recommendations above and drove it. It now pulls to 6k without difficulty. The two of us who drive this car are both new to 02s and just assumed the motor was that weak, not making much above 4500. It sounds and runs noticeably different now. The IE dizzy was very easy to install and fun to tune using an adjustable digital timing light. We're going to the track in a few days and I'll have before and after lap times. Just for fun, I'm going to leave it at 32 degrees and run the premium pump gas out of it. Next it'll get some racing fuel and 36 degrees. I want to see the effect on lap times. Thanks again to all who helped me on this thread!
  4. Is this the correct throttle body? https://www.ecstuning.com/ES212950/?gclid=Cj0KEQjw-b2wBRDcrKerwe-S5c4BEiQABprW-CDzCCNzBhHeykMpWx-1oMsywPYz31wnz8IXwDDZhNgaAjab8P8HAQ
  5. When switching from the larger diameter booster to the Tii one, are there any other mods necessary due to the length of the Tii booster. The battery is still under the hood. I can't just look for myself as our Tii booster is in transit post rebuild. Many Thanks!
  6. Thanks Toby! It seems the advantage of the rear bell housing hole is it controls your line of sight. I just made my mark and will reference them from the same angle / line of sight from now on. This was my first experience with a digital, adjustable timing light. Boy does that make life easier!
  7. No, mine is a er....uh....bit less refined at the moment. The car the dizzy went in is the first in this pic. Mine is the next. If you're at NOLA on a NASA race weekend, please come to the tower and say hello! My second job is NASA Race Director. We've got two more in the queue behind mine. We're trying to pump up the 2002 presence at the track. New Orlean's folks love 2002s. That white car draws as much attention as anything else in the paddock. Mine is a VERY low budget track rat build.
  8. "It's a race car not a grocery cart"....... right! So this is IE's electronic dizzy no dwell on this one. I put my iPad between the strut brace and hole in the bell housing. Just to double check I had TDC. This actually worked well as it magnifies the timing mark for you. I'm not to 36 degrees yet, I'm at 32. Currently it's got premium pump gas in it. Well put racing fuel in and push that timing to 36 as Jeff gently suggested
  9. That's where I set the motor to install the dizzy, mark was dead center of the cam journal under the oiler bar. Yeah, what you wrote makes sense and I can do that. Thanks!
  10. IE electronic dizzy 71 2002 race car Digital timing light Reason for new dizzy was motor was pitiful north of 4500. So weak we've been shifting at 5100 to 5500. It's like the lights are on but nobody's home. It had a points dizzy. Drat! The home made strut brace blocks the view of the flywheel timing mark. At TDC compression, I put the new dizzy in with the rotor pointed at #1. Motor fired right up and runs good with no load. I used the mark (not sure what it means) on the front of the motor. I ran the motor up to 3200 and adjusted the dizzy to 30 degrees advanced. I then ran the motor up higher to verify I was at full advance which I was. I then let it idle and adjusted the timing light, it was at 15 advanced. I'm thinking all I really did was verify the dizzy's advance works as advertised. Without the rear timing marks I still don't really know what the timing is. To make matter worse I can't put the motor under load as it's up in the air pending hub work. Sure hope one of you fellas have a good solution for timing this puppy that doesn't involve removing the welded on strut brace? Thanks!
  11. I'm doing the same to my track rat but with one additional step. Shave stock gas fill opening in fender.
  12. I can't seem to search this one up, I'm sure it's been beaten to death. Will ti hubs fit on a none ti car. The none ti car is a round tail light car. Thanks!
  13. Oh, thanks for that ^. We've got 3 to do and are debating on getting a Rotisserie.
  14. What was your process for getting the original material off? Did you do it all from underneath while on jack stands?


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