02for2

www.2002s.net! FAQ Discount Cheers!

Yep! ... When in doubt, call Blunt! Cheers!

Honestly? ... time for a rebuild. If you're going to have to replace the acc diaphram anyway, might as well do the whole job. Really pretty simple, and your carb, and your 2002, will thank you. Cheers!

Mike, I know we discussed this on Saturday at Blunt's house, but as you know, fuel vapors can result from much more than the vapor cannister. Be sure that your Fuel Sender 'O' ring is in good nick, as well as all your fuel line connections and filler neck gaskets, in addition to the filler neck itself. I'd hate to see you invest $30 and not solve the issue. Cheers!

IIRC, you also have to swap the plug from one side of the cluster to the other. I have already done the swap on my auto in anticipation of adding the 5-spd. this spring. Cheers!

Uh... that would be a PIOUS! Cheers!

Great! The E-28's are a really nice car! I spent 5 days in one a couple weeks ago when I accompanied my buddy to SF to pick it up and drive it back. The car, a 535is, was amazing. Ran like a top and handled really well on a rainy PCH1, not to mention the icy high sierra passes, especially for such a big car. My buddy (who'd never been west of the Mississippi) says it was the trip of a lifetime! Your buddy's really going to enjoy it! Cheers!

The wiper delay on my '76 is up under the dash. I'd be surprised if yours wasn't too. Cheers!

I have a craftsman jack that's more than 12 yrs. old and has seen LOTS of service - always works great! Are you sure you're rotating the handle anti-clockwise to lower? If so, and it has a breakdown handle, remove the bolt on the handle holding the two halves together and get the largest screwdriver you can find to fit in the hole. This way, you'll get more leverage turning it. Finally, get out the BFS and put it between the teeth of the lower gear and gently tap in the proper direction with a hammer, that should loosen it. If not, it'll need a total rebuild and unfortunately won't be any use to you. Cheers!

Thanks for the kind, considerate, well thought reply. Well, I'd be laughing right along with you if your reply wasn't just an off-the-cuff absurdity! True, the annealing temp of pure aluminum is 600°F. But, and it's a BIG BUT, you're not dealing with pure aluminum, but an alloy. Do you even know what alloy we're talking about? I don't (though I suspect it's likely one of about a dozen widely used in wheel manufacture). Hopefully, it's not aluminum alloy 2024, because it's annealing temperature is a mere 212°F The point is, there are a number of alloys used in making aluminum wheels, sometimes more than one alloy in a single wheel. These have totally different properties than pure aluminum alone, and some can have their temper ruined when exposed to the environment found in powdercoating. Then there is the issue of varying thicknesses around many wheels. Powdercoating is big business these days, primarily because for a small investment in equipment, there is great profit potential. There is even greater profit potential if accepted methods are short-cut, or equipment not properly operated or maintained. The fact that no major wheel manufacturer recommends powdercoating is mostly due to the wide variation in the methods and procedures used by those offering powdercoating. As I mentioned, many do not properly maintain their equipment, such as calibrating it everyday! Then, proper cooldown procedures are rarely used, because it backs up the workload. Lots of people are ignorant of the issues powdercoating can pose, and are also usually price-sensitive. So they go to their corner powdercoater who offers the lowest price. They don't realize that this low price is often because they bang the sh*t out like link sausages - more products/hr. So, the items are usually pulled out of the oven right at the 20 min. mark or so and allowed to harshly return to room temp, often resulting in a weakened wheel. Properly done, you can powdercoat most alloys of aluminum, but slow controlled cooldown is the key to maintaining the temper (strength). And, I never said not to powdercoat at all. But personally, I would ask a lot of questions of the coater and be sure they're doing it right. There are lots of wheel problems that occur that people don't associate with powdercoating, such as cracks, or breaking due to hitting a pothole, etc. - people presume cause & effect, when in fact they may have ruined the wheel way before the incident by improperly powdercoating them. It's expensive and colors are limited, and there's a potential to ruin the wheel. Personally, I would just paint my wheels. It's more certain, and cheaper by a long shot! Cheers!

Just FYI - No major wheel manufacturer recommends powdercoating alloy wheels, in fact a few actually caution against it. This is beause the oven heat required to 'flow' the powder can ruin the temper of the alloy. The temperature must be exactly controlled within a very narrow range and brought down to room temp very slowly. Professional ovens need to be calibrated regularly to avoid wild temperature swings and many shops just don't do this since oven downtime isn't part of their business plan. Also, once the powder has flowed, they typically remove the wheels immediately so the next batch can be put in. For a home oven, even set at 350°, the temp can swing as high as 600° before the thermostat reacts and shuts down the heat. In many cases, people never realize the consequences of ruining the temper of the alloy, they powdercoat and never have an issue. But, if you ever do, it'll be at the worst possible time... not sitting in your driveway idling. Cheers!

JJ, You need to empty your website mailbox. I sent you an email, you replied, but my reply keeps bouncing back with the error msg. that your mailbox is filled. Thanks for your attention. Cheers!

Hey guys, We tried to put this together last Fall, but for many reasons, people could not attend. Mike Gray, his son John and I were all who made it, but we did spend an enjoyable afternoon over good food getting to know each other, and that made it worthwhile at least. But, we're going to try again! The Spring driving season is just around the corner (REALLY... I'm sure of it), and it would be great to try and assemble all the area owners for a get-together to meet each other and build a local resource base for those of us crazy enough to own these wonderful cars. We are going to try and organize a local group, so if you're interested in helping form one, at the beginning, this is the place to be! So, once again, we're gathering at the Moose Country in Mendota on Saturday, March 12 at 1:00pm. We hope to see all of you there. I have already confirmed that Mike Gray and Steve Petersen (BLUNT) will be there. In addition to meeting, exchanging info., etc. we're going to discuss plans for the upcoming InterMarque Spring Kick Off Car Show being held this year on Sat. May 14 at Picnic Hill in Como Park in Saint Paul. As you can see by the attached, the 2002 is literally the Poster Child of this year's show, and we would like to see a good turnout - it is a FREE event! The Moose Country is readily accessible from anywhere in the TC, just off I-35E on Hwy. 13 (Sibley Mem. Highway) - see: Moose Country . Hope to see you all there! Cheers!

+1 on Advanced! Cheers!

I have a pretty nice 4-spoke original - all 4 horn buttons work, no cracks, nice center pad and roundel. If interested, make me an offer. Cheers!

Tom, Your 5 series look great! Thanks again for inspecting Bobby's 535is prior to our trip to the Bay area. The car was even better than we expected once we saw it and performed flawlessly all the way back to MN, though we did re-tire it in Cheyenne - the 205 17 Summer performance tires were waay too much tire for the car. All-in-all, it was a great adventure - Bobby had never been west of the Mississippi before. I've made the trip many times and it was fun taking Bobby down PCH 1, having lunch at the Rocky Point Rest., seeing Hearst Castle, through the Sierras, stopping at the Bonneville Salt Flats, Reno, Grass Fed Steaks in Cheyenne at the Little Bear Inn, etc.. Bobby says it was the trip of a lifetime! We picked the car up in San Ramon and headed south to pick up PCH 1 - a dream of Bobby's - turns out that when his father came over here from Bangladesh in '68 for college, he drove the same route on PCH1, so it was a lifelong dream of Bobby's to follow his Dad's route. My only regret is that it took us the opposite direction to visit you, but we were battling a weather window as well. The car is great, Bobby's thrilled, and I hope the payment of one of our LED conversion kits for your '02 is adequate compensation for your time. Cheers!

I dunno... bit of an eyesore to me. I just scored an excellent pair of E21's for my car - wrong color, but I'm recovering them. But, the best Recarro's I've seen are in Mike Gray's (Mresq) '02 - power, heated - came from a tricked out van as I recall. Don't remember the Recarro model designation, but VERY cool! Mucho dinero! Cheers!

Interesting! I was led to believe that the Tii manifold was about as good as it gets for an essentially stock car. Cheers!

That's a Hella va picture...lol Cheers!

I got some NOS clips from Rogers Tii that work/look great! Several '02 owners have commented and ask where I got them. Cheers!

Here in MSP, there is a thing called a CD (continuance for dismissal). Basically, you need to go to traffic court and speak to a traffic officer. A bit of contrition is usually enough to get them to grant a CD. They'll lecture you for a minute and say that if you get another moving violation within the year, both violations fall on you. But, in the interim, it remains 'invisible' to your Ins. Co. and after a year just goes away - your case is filed as a continuance for dismissal. In addition, it may actually get you out of being cited in the future. It did for me. I was driving on a CD and was pulled over in my Lotus Esprit. For acceptable reasons (a drunk trying to race me while weaving through the lanes), I accelerated to 100+MPH in order to avoid him. At the top of the ramp while waiting for the light to change, a cop pulled behind me and hit the lights. The officer stated she clocked me at 100+. I explained why, volunteered to take ANY sobriety test she chose and asked that she let it slide, saying that I was already on a CD and that if cited, two violations would fall on me, which wasn't fair. The cop ran my license and came back asking for my proof of insurance. In the Lotus, the driver cannot reach the glove compartment, so I opened the door to go around. The officer told me to stay in the car. So I said: "well then, you reach into my glove compartment to pull it out. The officer then said: "listen to what I'm saying...- you don't have proof of insurance". The lightbulb went on in my head - if cited for no proof of ins., you must go to a DMV ofc. within 48 hrs., show proof of Ins. and the citation is dropped. So, I said:" You're right, I have no proof of Ins." I took the citation, went the next day to the DMV ofc. and showed my POI to the clerk. As she was stamping my citation as 'VOID", she looked up and said: "What did she really get you for?" I said: "100+" She replied:" Merry Christmas" The point being, investigate whether your state has a similar program. It may save you some cabbage. Cheers!

Just be careful that you don't over-tire the car. Excess steering effort at low speed and tramlining can get pretty tiring over the long run. Still, being a slave to fashion does have a certain appeal, so I understand. Cheers!

Sorry to see this. I drove through Indy last month when returning from NC with my new-to-me 325is. While the roads definitely showed the the effects of winter (esp. the expansion joints), they're nothing like the 'Moonscape' we're forced to drive daily here in Mpls. Up here at least, it's as if the Lobby for the Alignment Centers is operating in cahoots with the Legislature. But, unfortunately, with all the fiscal shortfalls being experienced with local and State goverments, these things are going to be much more the 'norm' than the exception. BTW, I'm glad it wasn't your 1600 too! Cheers!

An E30 325es is just an optioned 325e. Overall an extremely nice car! But, the collectible of the series is always going to be the 325i, especially the 'is' and the 1st Gen M3 (s14 motor). That said, I'd much rather have a nice historied 'e', than a ratty 'is' or M3. The M3 has really stratosphered, at $18k+ for a nice example - lots of BR, but not all that superior to the 'is'. I just got a very nice, relatively low miles, but excellently maintained and Zero rust, '90 'is' for <$7k, just a month ago. Similar 'e's can be had for <$5k. Mine was tastefully modded to include HD Billys, Eibach pro springs, poly bushings and handles wonderfully. My MPG was 32.4MPG on the 1400 mi. trip home (at a cruise-controlled 84 MPH), and 25-26 MPG in-town (though I suspect this will improve as the novelty wears off). I've heard a lot of chatter that some of these engines just naturally have better Range (MPG) than others - seems like mine is one of these as some others report lower Range, while a few others confirm my numbers. The 'is' came equipped standard with Sports Seats, all-electric, premium sound, 14" basketweaves (have Winter tires on Bottlecaps), close-ratio gearbox, cruise, AC, spoilers F/R and a 3.64 LSD rear. IIRC, these had to be added individually to an 'es' model. If it's a low miles car, in great nick with known history and <$5k, it's a terrific buy. If more, be sure to check out the 'is's available before taking the plunge. Despite risking excommunication for blastphemy, I have to say that it's more of an '02 than the '02. Advances in engine mgmt., uni-body construction, galvanic rust protection, and materials are the reasons why. Now is the time to get into an E30. KBB and others still list it as a 'used' car and their respective 'classic' guides have not yet picked it up. As the E30 M3 continues to climb, it's pulling the E30 (esp. the 'is') right along with it. Also, parts are still dirt cheap compared to the '02 (though not for long I suspect). I have 3k+ mi. on mine since picking it up 1/15/11, and I love it, maybe the best overall car I've ever owned... says a lot - I've owned a few... Cheers!

Well, it's certainly not the supplier's fault you did not keep your receipt. Many of us have books or files to organize these receipts - often inches thick. It's not fair to stick the company for your disorganization. Also, most parts have a maximum return period of 1 year, so again, not the supplier's responsibility. Some parts come with a longer guarantee, but state so and still there's that requirement that you produce proof-of-purchase (the receipt) to make a claim. But, you're not making a claim or letting the company know the part didn't perform. You're just slipping it back into the packaging and will return it as uneeded or claim it was defective when you got it without ever divulging it's 1.5 yrs. of service. To my mind, ethics are not conditional. Not based on a company's size or ability to absorb the loss, nor on what your friends and family may think. And it's false reasoning to think the company will 'eat it' as you say. The company, whether a parts supplier, insurance company or whatever, never 'eats it'. They just pass the cost along to the rest of us in the form of higher prices. Cheers!