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ought2

Solex
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Everything posted by ought2

  1. And don't forget to request one of these with your next order!
  2. Seems to me that the worst offenders could care less what kind of damage they cause; in fact that's likely what motivates them. It's like anything else - the rule followers will usually adhere to the rules and the... well, you know.
  3. I dont see why it cant so let me pass this on to the metal fabricator and will get back. Good suggestion. Given that the tolerances in measurement between the shock towers are inexact at best (perhaps even when new), aren't those joints necessary to compensate in order to snug the bar securely?
  4. Check out the information on the site I recommended. They offer museum quality products that take into account various finishes/metals i.e. brass, aluminum, copper, etc.
  5. Highly recommended! http://www.englishcustompolishing.com/index.html
  6. I believe the intent of this effort was to respond to literally years of requests and suggestions for exactly what this brace does. No claims have been made as far as adding any body stiffness. The issues that have been addressed are the reluctance to drill holes, a la the TEP brace, and to also allow flexibility in battery placement, left, right or center, all in response to those very concerns. I know how much time and legwork Armond has put into this project. It's embarrassing and childish to have people snipe his efforts. You no like, you no buy. Plain and simple.
  7. Given your geographic location, you might have better luck by posting lots of detailed pictures here. I'm not sure how many people would make the trek based on an older photo taken before disassembly. The need for extensive bodywork can be the death knell for lots of would-be restorers. Just a thought.
  8. I don't have any pictures right now, but I recently bought a pair of Recaros with the German vinyl, from Dave Varco (Aardvark). I opted for the perforated center panels. He sells a top notch product. I'll try to grab some pictures later.
  9. Any chance of posting a picture of your installation? TIA
  10. His exhaust manifolds and downpipes are works of art, too. 02again.com
  11. This is a great forum for all garage/shop related topics. http://www.garagejournal.com/
  12. This appears to be a cheap solution: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYubUd_-Juw
  13. I love it! Is that a Wheelskin cover you have?
  14. I bought a new pair from Blunt a couple of years ago. They weren't expensive and it's nice to know that all of the bends on them are by design and not "mishaps".
  15. I had the same thing happen. I bought a long SS machine screw and used some Gorilla glue to attach it. A clothes pin works great to clamp it in until the glue sets. Worked fine for me! (credit to Armond)
  16. Check to see if your car has been retrofitted with the pre '73 brackets. These pull the bumper closer to the nose, but also cause the holes in the fenders to misalign. The bumper brackets for 1973 are triangular in design. If yours aren't, that's the likely problem. If this is the case, email me for directions on how I dealt with this.
  17. I have a brand new pair of chrome arms (never installed) that I bought from Blunt for $99 that I'll let go for $75.
  18. This is an original mat for a roundie. The fabric has no pattern. It's a light gray with a gray vinyl binding. Original BMW accessory sales literature makes reference to this as an option. (Polaris, please email me.)
  19. +1 on Crowder's. I bought my Nardi there a few years ago and found the staff very responsive and knowledgeable, not to mention very competitive prices.
  20. Any updates on the production line? Sorry if I missed something.
  21. You can pick up a small remnant of heavy cardstock from an auto upholstery shop. It's pretty much the same thickness and strength of the original cards. Using a new Exacto blade, or similar, cut out the damaged area in a shape that will be easy to duplicate with new material. Use the cut out space as a template for the new piece and glue it in using a quality contact cement. If you have some 3M spray, you can spray that into a small disposable container and then brush it onto the edges of both surfaces. Let the glue dry or quicken the process with a heat gun. Then carefully press the new piece into place. For further strength, add a bridge of new card stock across the back of the repair using the same glue or cement. The material I have used has a satin black facing, so painting or dying isn't required.
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