ought2
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Everything posted by ought2
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Did you get my email? No response yet. -
Email sent on side grill.
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Here's another option for you: http://www.craftcustoms.com/index.htm
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I had the same question awhile back. Bill Williams knows of a business that does a great job. I don't recall the name though.
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Run any 2 sizes on this tool for an accurate superimposed comparison: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
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What if you put some vice grips on the bolt head and tapped the threaded end? I can't imagine what would be binding those bolts up if they're turning freely.
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I meant to tap on the bolts to push them out of the frame rails. Then the brackets should drop right off.
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The beads that are sold for this pupose are ceramic. I don't think any old BB's will do. The two sources that are listed in the air-cooled DIY article are larger than what you'll be able to pour into the valve stem tube. They would need to be placed inside the tire before inflation. I'm still looking for a source for the very small beads that are in the kits. They need to be free to roll around quietly. Once the centrigual force groups them together, they stay in place.
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+1 on that. I used some of that 20 years ago on an old Porsche and as far as I know it's still adhering. The 3-M stuff is made specifically for this purpose.
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There was nothing holding mine. I'd try tapping them with a hammer to loosen the possible rust holding them in there.
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Looky here: http://aircooledtech.com/tools-on-the-cheap/balancing_beads/
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Just read about this on an air-cooled site. Cheap insurance! http://www.aircooledtech.com/pertronix_chafing/
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Testor's Blue 1111
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Did you need to do any other adjustments or alignments? My car is strictly used for street. Are you aware of a post that describes the procedure, or is it pretty straight forward? If I seem timid about this, it's because I am.
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Good to know, Toby. Do you know if the IE brackets require additional adjustments to other components?
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tires and wheels Any interest in Compomotive wheels?..
ought2 replied to jrkoupe's topic in BMW 2002 and other '02
Nice stuff! All the wheel whores are going to be in heat now! Any info on pricing? -
I have the Eastwood siphon blaster as I mentioned earlier. It was only $20 with 3 tips. Seems to be made very well and doesn't require a huge CFM rate. Tractor & Supply has one for $10. My surface rust wasn't very deep, but it would have required quite a bit of work without the blaster. I covered the new metal with a product called All Metal, which I was very pleased with. This was followed with a glazing putty, epoxy primer and paint. Hope to see your results!
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Brad spoke up first and agreed to the price + shipping.
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What say you, Brad?
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I have a set of Aardvark fixed camber plates and would like to even things out a bit in the rear. So, is there an actual write up to refer to on the "flip"? Thanks for the info!
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I'm reposting this because I slipped off the radar screen with my last ad. I have a Tii manifold in excellent shape. It has been bead blasted and ceram-coated. This is widely recognized as a solid, cost-effective upgrade to the non-Tii motor. Price reduced to $100 + shipping.
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Is that the kit for $190 I was reading about on the forum just today? I was hoping to not spend that kind of money on this, but... what's involved with that installation? Welding?
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I understand that one remedy for decreasing some of the rear negative camber after lowering your car is to flip the subframe mounts. Is this a pretty straightforward procedure? Any tips or advice? Thanks.
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Curt is a first class individual. When I first joined the FAQ, he would take time to email me and explain things in a detailed, patient manner. I never felt that I was being lectured to or scolded for not researching the answers thoroughly enough. I've never met Curt in person, but still consider him to be a friend. My thoughts and prayers are with you, Curt.
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Email me and I'll forward your message.
