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DavidLMM

Solex
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  1. (thinking back...) I think it was too advanced, maybe 10 degrees or so - just a guess. (and I may have it backwards, what with holding the timing light with an elbow while trying to turn the distributor, watch down the hole, and not burn my hand!) What the neat white patch on the flywheel is all about, I may never know. The car is transformed - accelerates better, starts easier, no dieseling.
  2. DGA/EVs are "right hand, DFA/EVs are "left hand" from what I've read about Webers. D is dual, G or F is handedness, A for aqua/E for electric, and no one agrees on V, but some say power Valve. David
  3. Fuel is OK, on my third tank (2 different Shell, and a Marathon (actual gasoline) since this manifested. So, turns out it was........timing. The PO had painted a nice bright white spot on the flywheel, with a crisp edge. In all honesty, I guess I never really saw the ball, guess I was just sure it was in the field of white. Reading some of Paul Wegweiser's old posts, and discussions of getting close to timing by ear. I gave the distributor some rotation, and lo and behold, I saw the ball - in a ragged splotch of dull red. Crap! Reset idle, turned the car off and restarted several times, and now it starts almost just touching the key, and no other histrionics. Thanks, guys, you pointed me in a direction I thought I didn't need to look. For the record, the distributor is a JFU4 0 231 176 059 Oh, and the M3 radiator? My new Behr has two shiny threaded holes in need of some M14 brass plugs that were not included. Drain plug yes, these holes, no. My last two Behrs had undrilled bosses, so this never occurred to me. Maybe tomorrow. Thanks again! David
  4. Oh, my distributor is only active on advance.
  5. It seems better after the drive home, but still dieseled a small amount at shutdown. My very basic timing light (no advance, it's a year newer than the car!) at least fits so I can see down the hole. Neither our Sun or Snap-On advance lights can wriggle into the space to effectively light down the hole. I may also see if the idle mixture can stand leaning out any. I may go out after dinner and work with the timing a little. Then I'll replace the radiator in my E30M3 to get my fleet back up to 75%. Then I'll finish packing for OFest... David
  6. Sorry, am at work, adding as I can... Should have said - at The Vintage this year, Mike Self identified the electric solenoid as a possible problem, and it is 86'ed. I have not messed with the timing, trying not to try too many things and not know what worked. The distributor is the stock, CA-spec model - do not recall the number. Vacuum was plugged. Advance is working under vacuum. I have an 008 that I plan to drop in over the winter, after having it reworked. I checked the valves clearances - one was a bit tight, one a bit loose, the others all OK. Pulled the plugs, was surprised they were BP5s; I thought they were 7s, but 5s came out of it. Our shop had some B6ES on hand; they feel that not having the extended nose, plus a couple of ranges cooler, might do the trick. I suppose I'll find out on the drive home tonight. If not, I suppose I'll work on the timing after my 15 hour workday tomorrow... Thanks, everyone.
  7. Have not messed with timing, since it is spot-on. Might try it if nothing else pans out. Our shop here is stumped, and we work on hundreds of different models over a year's time. From the '20s to just a few years old, and almost all European. If it had SUs or a Solex, they'd have a better handle on it. (Lane Motor Museum) David
  8. So a couple of weeks ago, in preparation for the trip to OFest in SC, I did a full tune-up and valve adjustment. The car is a mostly stock '76, 4-speed, desmogged, with a Weber 32/36 and Ansa exhaust. Tune-up consisted of: new plugs (same NGK BP5ES as what were in it), Kingsborne wires, Bosch cap, rotor, points and condenser, all from Blunt. Some of the valves were a bit tight for my taste, around 0.006, so now all are at 0.008. Timing - I see the ball at 1500; dwell is 60 degrees. Idles steady at 850 or so. Carb jets are to Carl Nelson's recipe. Electric choke, operating. Since then, I've experienced varying instances of tailpipe backfires, carb backfires, and dieseling. Sometimes it happens, sometimes it doesn't - does not seem to be hot weather-related. In an effort to remedy, we have eliminated the fuel return pathway, capped the open vacuum associated with that; taken the charcoal canister out of the loop, capped its vacuum as well. I have set and reset the idle mixture, idle speed, pulled the carb top off, checked the floats (40mm) no trash in the bowl, jets are all clean. Once it cools down later today (no time to wait for dead cold) we will check for any tight valves. Whet else should I be looking for? My wife is mortified that the car is pooting and backfiring, embarrassed at what anyone in the OFest parking garage might think of us! we might be forced to bring her 135is, but would rather bring the '02 so we can take part in the drives. Any thoughts? David in Nashville
  9. I have everything in a plastic tote from my formerly Bay Area '76. It had passed CARB before I bought the car 6 years ago, but since I am in TN, I took everything out very carefully. Make me an offer if interested, and I can weigh it for a shipping estimate. David
  10. I used lots of clothespins and 3M black adhesive. Cleaned the old off with PrepSol and some sort of organic cleaner and a lot of elbow grease. Left them on a couple of days, and so far so good.
  11. Anyone else see the AP story running in the newspapers this weekend? Article is "Average Age of Cars, Trucks Hits Record" and the photo accompanying is of Paul replacing an engine seal in something. Hard to tell, it might be an M10 timing cover. David
  12. https://www.lanemotormuseum.org/collection/cars/item/bmw-bavaria-1973 This is the best I can do for now. The horizontal surfaces are badly checked, but we're going to have a detailer take a shot at it. It even has full period coco mats, trunk included.
  13. Thanks - I will have a look over there. when I met some of the Senior Six guys at The Vintage, it sounded like they were mostly a Facebook crowd now, and I am not on FB. David
  14. Have made some headway. Yesterday, I thought the jack was bottomed-out, but it still had a bit to go. Now, ALL the way down, and with the crank UP, the hole slips over the left stud, and the crank nut rests on the wiring harness, so it won't rattle. With the crank down, it will not really fit without forcing. The notches on the clamping plates do not match the centerbore of the wheel, but RealOEM shows an adapter ring, but no P/N. The manual is no help - shows tools in use, says they are stored under the left trunk board, but that's it. Google Image searches have yielded nothing. We have the washers, nuts and wingnuts - all still nicely zinc plated, almost no wear. David
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