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ought2

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Everything posted by ought2

  1. ought2
    Barn fresh!
  2. ought2
    The cracks will make it more likely that you'll have large shards of plastic coming apart under any kind of pressure. Also, keep in mind that once you remove the lens, reattaching it will require adhesive. When I make my lenses, I use a molding process that allows installation before the plastic is fully cured, so there is some flex to them during installation. If you could email me some close-up pictures, I'd be able to give you some better advice.
  3. ought2
    The factory uses an injection process that encapsulates the plastic on both sides of the bezel, effectively locking it in place. The only way to remove your lens intact is to cut the bezel in several locations to free up the metal pieces, which are adhered to the plastic. The older they are, the more brittle the plastic will be. Obviously, you don't want to destroy the bezels if they're worth refurbishing. The other avenue is to carefully trim the portion of the lens along the interior perimeter to free the face from the bezel. This takes a very steady, patient hand to do without going too far. It would be best to practice on a throw-away signal first. If you'd like further tips, email me directly. I've done both procedures many times.
  4. ought2
    I found this picture of the same car. Maybe you could track down the guy who listed it as a favorite. This is the poster's website: http://ollifoolish.spreadshirt.de/
  5. ought2
    I'm in the process of replacing just the lower portion, too. With guidance from a skilled bodyman, I drilled out the spot welds using a Blair spot weld bit. This is where the exterior of the valance forms the infamous lost valley with the interior piece. The weep holes get clogged easily which leads to a reservoir of water and debris, resulting in the very common rust out in this part of the car. Then he had me cut the rusted sheet metal just below the horizontal ridge in the valance and down, parallel to the seams between fenders and valance, without disturbing the seams. I'm waiting for him to come over and weld in the donor valance. I've been taking a few pictures of the process, so I'll post those when finished. Initially, I had hoped to simply grind out the rusted portion and weld in a patch, but the structure is more complicated than it appears, once you dig in behind what shows.
  6. ought2
    I'm offering reproduction spare spark plug holders with an old school style. These are machined from aluminum bar stock, tapped for our 14mm plugs. Faux fasteners are used to prevent the need for drilling into your sheet metal. 3M heavy duty trim tape will be included as an alternative. The finish is brushed and polished. These have a substantial feel to them and would offer a unique touch to your engine compartment. Price is $32.50 + nominal shipping. I have 2 left, but will accept orders for additional pieces.
  7. ought2
    Thanks, Scott! I'll get your invoice ready...
  8. ought2
    Spare plug holders were, and still are an accessory favored by many vintge car owners. When plug fouling was a more common problem than it is now, it was convenient to have a nice set of gapped, ready to go plugs in a handy location, especially on a road trip. I've only seen one of these on an '02, but the idea appealed to me. Is it necessary? No, but neither are many of the accessories we each choose to personalize our cars. Below are some examples of other designs, some of which are still marketed.
  9. ought2
    I'm working on 5 of these, as that's all the aluminum bar stock I have on hand. Holes are drilled and tapped (14mm) to accomodate a set of 4 spare plugs. Aluminum surfaces are brush finished. Slotted hex machine screws are decorative. To avoid drilling into your sheet metal, 3M trim tape will be provided. Email for further details or suggestions. (The bottom photo served as the inspiration.) Thanks.
  10. ought2
    Not sure if they're rare or not, but my car has those also.
  11. ought2
    One way to make it stay, but also allow it to be removed without prying, is to make your own threads. You do this by partially filling the knob hole with liquid steel. It has the consistency of modeling clay before it sets. Then you wrap the shifter threads with Teflon tape. This is to prevent the liquid steel from adhering to the shift rod. Push the knob on securely and let it set. The liquid steel bonds to the inside of the knob and will have the threaded liquid steel insert mated to it.
  12. ought2
    Over the years I've owned quite a few British cars. There were electrical glitches from time to time, but overall, they're pretty basic to work on and maintain. The last time I squeezed into a Sprite (Midget) I discovered that it wasn't as roomy as when I was a young man... ~ Lucas, Prince of Darkness
  13. ought2
    http://www.por15.com/GLISTEN-PC/productinfo/GPCGG/
  14. ought2
    The two in the top picture are for the panel below the trunk - pre '74. The other one is larger and fits the hood.
  15. ought2
    Package deal on 3 metal roundels. $40 shipped for all 3.
  16. ought2
  17. ought2
    I agree with Arden. It looks as though the paint is drying too quickly. The product container recommendations may advise on adjusting the thinner or hardener if that applies to what you're using.
  18. ought2
    Hey Al, I'll show him my knob if you show yours!
  19. ought2
    I have this one available. $35 + shipping
  20. ought2
    Looks really good. What did you use for a primer? Also, does the ceramic top coat require heat curing?
  21. ought2
    I stumbled onto this Osram map light today. It was still stuck in the cigarette lighter of an old derelict 02. It's in amazing shape and still works! Oh, I found these mudflaps, too. Anybody interested in these after I clean them up? They are intact and look as though they'll look good after a bit of work. The second picture shows the flaps after a wash with warm water and simple green. I didn't really scrub them with anything. The hardware is in my parts tumbler and I'm not sure how useable it will be, but could be used for fabrication reference (not that complex). I've had numerous emails from people wanting to buy these. I'm not looking to have an auction or get rich with them, but I need to know what a fair price would be, hopefully from a non-buyer. I will offer them to the people who responded in the order I receivd their emails. TIA The map light isn't for sale.
  22. ought2
    Dash Top fits like a glove and mine didn't really need to be glued down. I sprayed mine with Duplicolor black vinyl "dye" and I'm very pleased with it.
  23. ought2
    Would that also apply to the fasteners that are visible through the grills?
  24. ought2
    I'll be anxious to see your results. Here's a site that has a lot of info on the process: http://www.rickswoodshopcreations.com/Miscellaneous/Rust_Removal.htm
  25. ought2
    Don't forgt to tip!
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