engine and drivetrain Hood prop ideas?

[powelli]

Well, it turns out that my Bodyshop stripped the threads on my hood and now my factory torsion spring won't reattach.

Anyone have any ideas on what I should use.....besides the nice dowel prop stick?

I was considering these two...

Lokar self-locking.

Just not yet sure if it will fold nicely in the engine bay.

Lisle 45900 3-Piece Telescoping Hood Prop.

Not sure as this gains me anything as my concern is that the wind might lift the hood forward and crush my kidney if I use an non-anchored prop rod.

[Pinepig]

You need a part called a nutsert, works like a rivet and has threads on the inside, after you install it ( like a pop rivet ) you unscrew the shaft part and use your brand new threads to put your hood back together.

[brad_c-ville_VA]

is there any way you can re-tap the holes in the hood? maybe with just a slightly larger bolt size, maybe even with standard bolts rather than metric?

i would suggest mounting a prop rod such that the mounting/pivot point is bolted to the car itself with the free end looping into a locking tab on the hood. but your car is so pretty, ian, that drilling new holes into that super clean and beautiful engine bay would be a crime!

brad.

[brad_c-ville_VA]

You need a part called a nutsert, works like a rivet and has threads on the inside, after you install it ( like a pop rivet ) you unscrew the shaft part and use your brand new threads to put your hood back together.

i have a nutsert riveter and that idea would probably work. but the nutserts (aka threaded inserts) are usually aluminum and not that strong. the threads easily strip. i used them to install my turbo flares and managed to strip one out with not much force. not sure if the aluminum inserts would hold up. perhaps they make steel ones, but my cheapo harbor freight riveter would never have the strength to install steel inserts!

[74tiiGolf]

A couple weeks ago someone was working on a cool gas-prop articulating arm thing for the hood.... anyone remember that post? Did it ever work out?

Matthew

[RKS]

Just replace the hood (and trunk lid, while you're in there) with carbon fiber pieces. I happen to have a set for sale.

[Tommy]

There is steel inserts too. I think 6mm is maximum with cheap tools. I would try that. Maybe even aluminum ones would work with proper torque and locktite.

Tommy

[BLUNT]

ian, if you decide to go with nutserts drop me an email. i have a few of the kits. all i have at this time is the aluminum inserts but the steel are readily avail. online .... i can loan you the tool. if youd like me to send it out email me

[Guest Anonymous]

I gave up on my torsion bar after never being able to re-attach it AND align the hood perfectly (after removing it for underside respraying), despite much help from others on this Board and days of patient effort at my end. I use the 3-Piece Telescoping Hood Prop that you posted, which looks non-amateurish, and works well for me, although the car is not a daily driver and the hood has not been opened in even modest winds. Good luck.

________________________

Roger

'72 Malaga

[powelli]

Thanks for the response guys. At this point, I am not even sure that I want to try and reattach the torsion spring as it already bit into my fender guards once when the bodyshop intially tried to attach it (with fender bolts....hence the destroyed threads)

I found this approach from Dubois that he used on a CF hood. I might look into trying it.

I used a prop rod and grommets from a small car hood (I got it from one of our totals as my source, but you can find them at Pick and Pull). I think I had to shorten it slightly and twist it, but it works beautifully:

[dubois]

Thanks for the response guys. At this point, I am not even sure that I want to try and reattach the torsion spring as it already bit into my fender guards once when the bodyshop intially tried to attach it (with fender bolts....hence the destroyed threads)

I found this approach from Dubois that he used on a CF hood. I might look into trying it.

[

this works really well with the CF, it should also work with stock, but you have to be careful and remember not to over swing the hood open, you will end up with a dimple on the grille, just like 99% 2002 out there.

[Harv]

I keep trying to think up a new hood hold up since I don't have the fender mounts due to fiberglass fenders. I was thinking of mounting to the hood where the torsion bar mounts and then mount the other end of a hydraulic supports to the top of the inner fender or maybe down behind the headlights?

John

[Pinepig]

I had to do some new hood supports on mine when I remade my turbo manifold from a log style to a tubular one. There was no way to get the turbo where it was before hand with a tubular manifold and moving it meant that the stock hood support would no longer fit. They lift the hood nicely once it is about a foot off the rain tray area and hold it very firmly when at the top, the wind will NOT blow it down. It takes a bit of effort to bring the hood back down and it must be grabbed in the middle top to get it moving.

I took a piece of aluminum angle and cut a few brackets, this pic should show what it looks like pretty well and where I placed it. Notice that it is tucked as close to the engine bay as possible and the peak of the bracket is up right where the radiator support sheet metal is attached to the fender area.

The top attaching point was located as far up the hood as I could get it ( and depended on the length of the hood shock ), I picked the length to give good height and easy access to the backside to fit the nut for the balljoint, I also used a BIG washer to reinforce the thin metal of the hood.

The last two give you two different angles of the whole setup, so you can see how far the hood is open and how much they are in the way when you are working in the bay ( not much, even less than the stock support )

The hood shocks were sourced from my local PepBoys and sadly I didn't keep the packaging but they have this written on the sides,

Stabilus Lift-o-Mat Part # 6585KV 0288N , overall length is right at 22" with a 10" long "rod", they were 20$ a piece. The ball joints used came in the packaging, so make sure they are in there as some at my local place were missing parts.

[brad_c-ville_VA]

now that's the way to do it! looks great, pinepig!

[Harv]

Pinepig, that looks great.

It looks like I could make a bracket to mount to the area where the top of the inner fender meets the nose panel. I wonder if I could use a shorter one and make it mount to the torsion bar mount on the hood

John