EMERGENCY need advice

[DavidLMM]

The S14 is pretty particular about it's oil filter. On the M3 SIG, it has always been advised on a stock motor to use the BMW/Mahle filter - part number ends in 25 is all I can remember. That is all I use on mine. Alternatively, a Porsche 928 filter also fits and has the same pressure characteristics, with the added benefit of about 2X filter media area. I have read many times on the SIG about non-stock filters bulging or splitting due to the internal pressures - the Mahle 25 apparently has a relief valve internal, plus a check valve. A "regular" M10 filter does not, although it will fit and may last awhile. BTW, an E28 M5 oil cooler is also easily adaptable from what I hear - plumbs up the same, might just need different mounting holes, and gives somewhat better cooling if you need that and can't source an M3 one. Good luck!

David in Nashville

'74 2002

'90 M3

'98 M3

[gwb72tii]

i'm not familiar with s14 oil pumps, but my friend had a similar problem, and it was the pressure relief valve in the oil pump in his 1602. seems he took the pump apart out of curiosity, which you are not supposed to do, and it caused the relief valve to stick closed after he reassembled it. when he would rev the motor, the increase in pressure would blow the oil filter clean off with oil going everywhere.

defective oil pump in your motor?

obstruction of some kid downstream of the oil filter?

sucks is right.....

[peteinjp]

Ok- what is the sequence in terms of flow?

What I would do is pull the adapter off and pop the stock filter back on to see if there is a blockage in the line- however it does seem that the relief valve should prevent the explosion problem. I bet that if you pulled the pan you could pull the pump quickly enough. I don't remember it taking so long- just hard to get it back in with a clean gasket (oil drip)

[DavidLMM]

Found this in a thread on S14.net...

**Below is some info directly from Mahle**

>>We do supply 2 different filters for the E30///M3 S14. The OC84 has a thicker housing and will accept a higher pressure. This is mainly used for colder areas. The OC 25 is for the warmer climates and is used mainly in Europe. Our US customers do order both parts, but we do not recommend the OC 25 if you live in the northern part of the US or Canada.

I hope this explanation will aid you in purchasing the correct filter for your area.

Kind Regards,

MAHLE Inc.<<

>>As discussed on the phone please get in touch with Mr. X to explain the correct application of OC 25 and OC 84. I wrote the answers in red next to the questions.

Please inform him that both part-numbers are correct. OC 25 is used in

warmer regions and OC 84 in cold regions because the housing can stand more pressure. To be on the safe side we always indicate for the USA OC 84 because we do not want OC 25 to be used in cold regions as the northern states.( But as you can see from the orders of our regular customers, they all buy OC 25 because it is more favorable in price). Depending on where he is located he should use the correct filter.

Best regards,

Mahle Filtersysteme GmbH<<

Apparently, the Pcar 928 filter is the OC84 Pp/n - thicker case and higher-strength spring. HTH,

David

[BLUNT]

Are you getting oil in the head?

i havent pulled the v/c so i cant say.

[BLUNT]

any chance you can drop the oil pan tomorrow and investigate the pressure relief valve and un-jam it, grease it up good, and carefully put it back in?

I've read about them jamming on M10 oil pumps, which are probably a similar set-up... and it seems like it might've been due to to jamming the lil piston up inside without much lubrication while putting a pan on after a rebuild. But if yours survived 600 miles or so, i figure it oughta be lubed up and operating smooth by now. But who knows... a circulating random piece of debris may have finally found its way in there, after the oil and stuff was drained out, then jammed it...

i'm just wildly speculating.

sucks, man...

im going to try and drop the pan tomorrow and see what i can see. i believe i have a FEBI oil pump (s14) with a 2002 pick up. i guess i just play with the relief valve and make sure it moves freely? its just hard for me to tear it all apart and then put it back together without some definitive proof of whats wrong. hopefully it will be blatantly obvious when i get the pan down

[peteinjp]

If you have a stock filter I'd try that first in place of the adapter. Check for oil at the head and let it warm up a bit before you rev it. Try to get a good reading at the gauge. What is the spec oil for the s14 anyway?

Is this the same oil you had in the engine before?

If you have a 2002 pump you could just switch it out no? Using the s14 sprocket. A little while ago I remember reading that the internals were the same.

[BLUNT]

If you have a stock filter I'd try that first in place of the adapter. Check for oil at the head and let it warm up. What is the spec oil for the s14 anyway?

i cant let it warm up. it runs for 5 to 10 seconds and blows the filter off the car or blows a hole in the oil cooler. it has to be a stuck pressure relief valve. you should see this oil filter. its all ballooned out. the oil cooler is totally deformed

[MOESPEED2002]

Hey Blunt,

SOrry to hear about things. Hope things will turn around for you.

I too have had somewhat of a similar problem, but I'm a little unclear on exactly what blew? Was it the cooler, or the oil filter? Yes these motors run high pressure and need to use 15/50w. If it's cold, with 15/50w in it, forget it. I run just an 02 pump and still have close to your numbers in pressure. Oil has to be warmed up good before you give it decent throttle. I used to peg my old 100psi gauge till I changed it to a 150.

I had the rubber o-ring pop on the oilfilter once with the same senario. Changed the oil, put a new element in the Canton oil filter, turned it on, started to idle and.....POP! Shut it down, spun the filter off, reset the rubber o-ring on the filter and spun it back on.....tighter this time.

Since then I no longer spin it off anymore. Just remove the bottom of the filter, and remove the element to change.

If the oil cooler blew. That is some serious pressure. Can't advise what it could be. Pulling the pan and double checking the pump I guess.

Good luck, hope that all works out and is simple.

Cheers,

MOE

[BLUNT]

Hey Blunt,

SOrry to hear about things. Hope things will turn around for you.

I too have had somewhat of a similar problem, but I'm a little unclear on exactly what blew? Was it the cooler, or the oil filter? Yes these motors run high pressure and need to use 15/50w. If it's cold, with 15/50w in it, forget it. I run just an 02 pump and still have close to your numbers in pressure. Oil has to be warmed up good before you give it decent throttle. I used to peg my old 100psi gauge till I changed it to a 150.

I had the rubber o-ring pop on the oilfilter once with the same senario. Changed the oil, put a new element in the Canton oil filter, turned it on, started to idle and.....POP! Shut it down, spun the filter off, reset the rubber o-ring on the filter and spun it back on.....tighter this time.

Since then I no longer spin it off anymore. Just remove the bottom of the filter, and remove the element to change.

If the oil cooler blew. That is some serious pressure. Can't advise what it could be. Pulling the pan and double checking the pump I guess.

Good luck, hope that all works out and is simple.

Cheers,

MOE

thanks moe, first the oil cooler blew. i will post pics of it tomorrow. its messed up. then i bypassed it and put a different filter on thinking it may have been the filter. then it blew the filter clear off the car. i dont even know how thats possible but it did it. it blew the o ring off and the filter spun off. it was tight as hell too.

[MOESPEED2002]

WTF?????? Is right.

Must be in the relief for the pump. That is where I would look first. Strange that it happened after already putting miles on it. Good thing it happened in the garage and not on the way to the show to leave you stranded.

Maybe something to do with using the S14 pump with the 02 pickup. I didn't know that was an option in the swap.

Keep us posted.

CHeers

MOE

[peteinjp]

Hey Blunt,

SOrry to hear about things. Hope things will turn around for you.

I too have had somewhat of a similar problem, but I'm a little unclear on exactly what blew? Was it the cooler, or the oil filter? Yes these motors run high pressure and need to use 15/50w. If it's cold, with 15/50w in it, forget it. I run just an 02 pump and still have close to your numbers in pressure. Oil has to be warmed up good before you give it decent throttle. I used to peg my old 100psi gauge till I changed it to a 150.

I had the rubber o-ring pop on the oilfilter once with the same senario. Changed the oil, put a new element in the Canton oil filter, turned it on, started to idle and.....POP! Shut it down, spun the filter off, reset the rubber o-ring on the filter and spun it back on.....tighter this time.

Since then I no longer spin it off anymore. Just remove the bottom of the filter, and remove the element to change.

If the oil cooler blew. That is some serious pressure. Can't advise what it could be. Pulling the pan and double checking the pump I guess.

Good luck, hope that all works out and is simple.

Cheers,

MOE

thanks moe, first the oil cooler blew. i will post pics of it tomorrow. its messed up. then i bypassed it and put a different filter on thinking it may have been the filter. then it blew the filter clear off the car. i dont even know how thats possible but it did it. it blew the o ring off and the filter spun off. it was tight as hell too.

Damn- thats severe! My thought was if indeed the Mahle info indicates that a stronger filter is necessary than using that filter in the stock location would do 2 things. First it may be providing a stronger filter- maybe not? But it would eliminate the remote setup as a possible problem area. But based on the fact that it blew the filter off the car i think I'd pull the pan and switch out the pump with an 02 unit put the s14 filter on and try it again. Sucks man! Good luck!!!!

Pete

[bent]

Put the M3 pickup back on the oil pump. There's a relief valve on it specifically intended to prevent severe overpressurization on cold startup. The standard pressure valve on the pump side of the assembly is only intended to regulate hot running pressure, the drain from that valve is too small to cope with cold, thick oil at high pressure.

You'll need to remove the bottom most sheet metal "funnel" from the M3 pickup, you can swap the 2002's screen on instead.

Also use the 11 42 1 278 059 oil filter, it's rated to 30 bar burst pressure.

Hope this makes sense, it's 1AM here and I've been staring at too many '02s and S14s the last few nights.

[InkaSteve]

Sooo sorry about the problems...can't help, but moral support and a little humor. Hang in there.

[m-racer]

After reading all of this I am still scratching my head. I have a pretty good idea how this engine works but I am no mechanic. I would call Thomas Boylan at Cars and Concepts in Tampa. 813-348-6183. He is an E30 M3 racer (owns a DTM car and several other highly developed S14), has done a wonderful job with mine, and knows more about s14's than anyone I know. He is also a technical advisor to the E30 M3 community. Andrew will answer the phone. Tell him you know me and want to talk with Thomas and I am sure he will put you through. Good luck, Tim Jones