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Por-15 isn't working out for me


felix_666

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I use Hammerite instead-

it's tougher than most auto acrylics,

and adheres very well to sandblasted metal.

It's not all that UV resistant, so it's not good for

exterior bits like bumper supports.

Getting hard to find, though...

I've been using 'industrial' rustoleum from BLowes, recently,

and for the money, it's been ok. I like the

'stainless steel' version...

fwiw,

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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Holy smoke, nice to see a few replies.

Point 1:

I spoke to the Por-15 people and they said sandblastered surfaces are great because it gives the material a tooth finish so the paint is able to stick to it well

Point 2:

Because it was sandblatered i was told i wouldn't need metal prep, just clean the surface.

Point 3:

I painted the fisrt coat on and sprayed the next two.

Point 4:

I was working in humid conditions of about 20-30 degrees Celsius.

Question:

I don't think i have the effort to paint everything again as it was such a big job, will the stuff last over time or should i go over it with something else, and i f so what??

__________________

1972 RHD Auto - Sold

1973 RHD Verona - Project

1974 RHD chamonix - Towed 

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i painted the plow carriage on my plow truck after sandblasting and grinding the shit out of it. i used metal ready after that and painted it with por 15 and then topcoated with rustoleum. after 2 winters of hardcore salt and never really being washed it looks good. obviously where theres metal on metal contact i have rust but the rest has held up great. i have a lot of por 15 on my resto so i hope it holds up well

www.BluntTech.com
FAQ Supporting Vendor
 Sales@BluntTech.com

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POR-15 needs something to which to adhere. That's the same story for epoxy or, for that matter, any paint, if you get right down to it. In other words, if you don't use the etching primer, it peels/doesn't create a strong bond.

I can't wait until Uncle Rick opens up his e-coat facility in Maryland. Then, we can stop all this silliness. E-coating is the way to go; problem is, nobody does it, except for the shops in Detroit that cater to the OEMs.

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Used prepsol, which was the guys who sold me the stuffs recommendation. It's just a cleaning agent, nothing special.

I emailed the Por-15 people and he seemed to think the stuff hadn't set (after one week i seem to disagree), but he agreed that it shouldn't scratch that easy and something was up. He also said that the surface might not of been rough enough, but again i don't agree as the parts were like sandpaper.

__________________

1972 RHD Auto - Sold

1973 RHD Verona - Project

1974 RHD chamonix - Towed 

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Point 2:

Because it was sandblatered i was told i wouldn't need metal prep, just clean the surface.

I have used POR-15 quite a bit on jeeps and 02s, and these are my thoughts.

If you blast to a white metal surface, then there is no reason to use POR-15. I never use POR-15 on white metal...it does not adhere and, as you found out, puts an unstabile barrier between the metal and the primer.

If the blasted/brushed surface still has corrosion imbeds, then I apply POR-15 only to the corrosion beds, enough to react with the corrosion, and immediately wipe the excess off of the white metal. Let it cure. Then finish everything with an acid etch primer.

As far as I'm concerned, once you stop the corrosion with POR-15, it will not start again as long as you keep the moisture away. That is why I seal my tub interiors with herculiner, and any through rust gets chopped out and replaced with clean metal.

67 Caribe 1600

76 Ceylon 2002

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Dido for Scott short bus: Temp is key.I would think!! Ive built surfboards in Va,NC, FL., CA. and Hawaii. Here in CA. is a stronger better board. JUST on Weather and Temp alone. Its warm here but not Hot. Like the south. Shit goes off allot diff. In 85 dry cali weather, then 85 100%hum. skicky wet weather.

culp

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Its like calling a 2002's POS's because they are not SUV's, no they are just intended for a different purpose...

As said above, it is made for rough surfaces. I spilled a little on my garage floor and after trying to remove it I became convinced only grinder would work after attempts to chip it away with a chisel and hammer where unsuccessful. Follow the directions and read the recommendations on any product and if it applies to the situation the given product will in most cases work.

~1976 2002~

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I have had excelente results with POR15.

But you have to clean the metal with something like Marene Clean and THEN etch it with an acid like Metal Ready to prep the surface. Afterr doing this I would guess that 80 grit on an air grinder would take it off but it would still be a job. Drips on my garage floor come off with a paint scraper and have concrete on the back of the lifted drip and a little divit where it was.

John

Fresh squeezed horseshoes and hand grenades

1665778

 

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