Worked for me...

[68gretchen]

After removing my heater box and installing a new seal in the valve only to have it leak after installation I went another route.

A 3/4" PEX tubing ball valve (w/barbed ends)...$15.88 (including clamps). It's 4-1/2" long and fits nicely in that spot.

A 1/4" pull rod passed through and hidden in the glove box operates it nicely.

I installed it in about 1/2 an hour and didn't need to remove the heater box.

Not a fix or everyone...but worked for me.

[TobyB]

Yes!  That's perfect!

 

t

these cars weren't meant to last 5 years....

[Stevenc22]

Looks like a good option!

[2002iii]

That's the second time I've seen this modification, lol.

 

Plumbing ball valves are much better than the original heater valve.

[Pdxguy]

Any pictures of the pull rod to operate it?

[NMDerek]

nice, where'd ya find one with that arm with the hole? 

[NMDerek]

just dreaming, but would it fit?

[68gretchen]

I had to slightly modify the arm with an offset in order for it to work and fit into the space.

Here's a picture of the rod...instead of a grommet (thru the firewall) I slipped 1/4" rubber fuel line over it and bent a 90 to grab onto.

[calw]

5 hours ago, NMDerek said:

just dreaming, but would it fit?

There must be one of these which would fit.  just a 12V electrically controlled one.  Bluetooth or wifi or whatever too silly and not needed

[jimk]

I've casually investigated modernizing the water control with a electric valve, a temperature sensor in the heater box and two buttons on my CAN keypad.  Set the temperature desired and the Haltech VCU does the rest.  

 

Thermotion. 2-Port, Electronic Heater Control Valve - P/N: 354-69493 - (5/8")

WWW.THERMOTION.COM

---

Thermotion’s Electronic Coolant Control Valve p/n 354-69493 consists of a (5/8") 2-port butterfly water valve powered by an electric actuator. The ECC controls coolant flow with an electrical signal. An integral position feedback potentiometer is included. The ECC is ideal for use with...

So it costs $90 but it has free shipping ! 😃

[NMDerek]

or? $33

Amazon.com: Motorized Ball Valve- 3/4" Brass Ball Valve with Standard Port, 9-36V AC/DC, 2 Wire Auto Return Setup, Normally Open (N/O) by U.S. Solid : Industrial & Scientific

WWW.AMAZON.COM

---

Amazon.com: Motorized Ball Valve- 3/4" Brass Ball Valve with Standard Port, 9-36V AC/DC, 2 Wire Auto Return Setup, Normally Open (N/O) by U.S. Solid : Industrial & Scientific

 

Edited February 23 by NMDerek
add text

[OldRoller]

This could work. Plenty of room to mount with actuator turned towards the right side. Power could be supplied via a microswitch mounted on the 'heat' control lever base to contact when heat lever slid to hot (or a simple on/off switch on the console). Power connection to an ignition 'on' source and fused. 

Our old valves tend to not close fully and allow hot water into the core even when fully closed. No one needs additional heat in the 'greenhouse' in the summer....

[Vicleonardo1]

Just when I think you guys can't blow my mind anymore, this happens......

[jimk]

5 hours ago, NMDerek said:

or? $33

Amazon.com: Motorized Ball Valve- 3/4" Brass Ball Valve with Standard Port, 9-36V AC/DC, 2 Wire Auto Return Setup, Normally Open (N/O) by U.S. Solid : Industrial & Scientific

WWW.AMAZON.COM

---

Amazon.com: Motorized Ball Valve- 3/4" Brass Ball Valve with Standard Port, 9-36V AC/DC, 2 Wire Auto Return Setup, Normally Open (N/O) by U.S. Solid : Industrial & Scientific

 

The heat will be full because the valve is only open/closed.  It's a common hydronic heating valve for buildings.

[calw]

right... the ideal valve must

1.  Fit in the available space in place of the old brass valve (including the necessary heater hose adapters)

      (unless there's a good location under the hood to move this function to, with with a piece of pipe instead of the old valve)

2.  Be forever impervious to the hot chemical mix of the water/antifreeze/rust/gunk mixture that flows through it

3.  Not make much heat on their own - solenoid valves are not a good an idea in general - they are often not rated for 100% duty cycle as the coil takes constant power to run and get hot when in the open position.

4.  Be "outdoor" weatherproof rated

5.  Cost (much) less than a rusty 2002 body shell found out in a field

and

6.  Ideally have a variable position function- partially open for partial heat and maybe just a little bit open when closed (if BMW's tiny hole in the OEM heater valve was really necessary). 

 

What does the heater valve in a modern IC-engined car (not an electrical resistance heated EV!).  Maybe they have a good scheme for mixing heated air with cabin/external air to modulate the temperature and use an on/off water valve.  Probably not applicable here.