VIN check

[Conserv]

On 3/26/2023 at 10:29 AM, NYNick said:

Vin plate right fender

Vin stamp right fender

Vin stamp engine block

Vin plate top of steering column

There’s also a sticker on U.S.-spec examples, after about 1970, on the rear panel of the left door, showing the VIN and manufacturing date. Of course, these stickers are often missing or illegible by now. Below, these stickers on my ‘76 and my ‘73… 😯😉

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

[Mike Self]

25 minutes ago, Conserv said:

There’s also a sticker on U.S.-spec examples, after about 1970, on the rear panel of the left door, showing the VIN and manufacturing date.

Unless your car (like my 73) incurred shipping damage in transit and the driver's door was replaced before delivery to the dealer:  no sticker, the door's interior had black primer (indicative of a spare parts door, as the assembly line primer was a couple of shades of grey) and the remains of a paper part number sticker, and I have all the receipts from when the car was first bought--no indications of door replacement after delivery to the original owner (I'm the second).  

 

I know that 68 and 69 cars didn't have that door sticker; not sure if the practice began with 1970--calendar or model year--probably a federal requirement.

 

mike

[jimk]

I'm vinless - 09/71 

[RJT79]

If these are all the numbers in question, then this is seriously the most ridiculous things that adds value to a car.  I could easily think of at least 3 different ways to reproduce these stamps, and I’m not even in the business of forgery.  

[Mike Self]

29 minutes ago, jimk said:

I'm vinless - 09/71 

Those early door stickers had the date and VIN inked in, and the ink didn't last very long.  Later cars have those numbers punched in through the sticker and stay visible until someone paints over the sticker...

[NYNick]

23 minutes ago, RJT79 said:

If these are all the numbers in question, then this is seriously the most ridiculous things that adds value to a car.  I could easily think of at least 3 different ways to reproduce these stamps, and I’m not even in the business of forgery.  

Those look pretty good and means the body matches. Did you get the picture of the engine block stamp? 

[jimk]

1 hour ago, Mike Self said:

Those early door stickers had the date and VIN inked in, and the ink didn't last very long.  Later cars have those numbers punched in through the sticker and stay visible until someone paints over the sticker...

I can say I've never seen a number on this sticker in the 51 1/2 years I've had the car.

[visionaut]

33 minutes ago, RJT79 said:

 I could easily think of at least 3 different ways to reproduce these stamps, and I’m not even in the business of forgery.  

All have been forged individually, harder to have them all…

 

Folks have cut out and rewelded the Fender stamp (it’s harder to fake).

And it’s pretty easy to swap steering wheel covers, with re-riveting the ViIN plate being just slightly tougher.

The stickers would seem easiest, but getting the fonts/spacing exact seems to be difficult.

The engine block is pretty hard to alter undetected..

 

 

[bergie33]

And...that already looks like a replacement VIN plate next to the color sticker.  I don't think there is a 50 year old vin plate in existence that looks that good.

[RJT79]

16 minutes ago, bergie33 said:

And...that already looks like a replacement VIN plate next to the color sticker.  I don't think there is a 50 year old vin plate in existence that looks that good.

Exactly, I really don’t see why someone will not buy a car based on those things alone, since it’s nearly impossible that these stickers, stamps, plates can remain pristine enough to be legible after 50 years of oxidation and buildup chemicals/minerals.  I’m not a car collector, and to judge the car solely based on those things, and not the overall package and condition.  
 

 

[visionaut]

No one said it’s just those things.

 

The cars provenance comes into it after the assessment of its roadworthiness, rust, originality, modifications, detailed mechanical and aesthetic condition, maintenance records, and impressions of its care/custodianship. But probably before price… 😉

[Conserv]

50 minutes ago, visionaut said:

No one said it’s just those things.

 

The cars provenance comes into it after the assessment of its roadworthiness, rust, originality, modifications, detailed mechanical and aesthetic condition, maintenance records, and impressions of its care/custodianship. But probably before price… 😉

+1

 

While I believe that “matching numbers” often command a small premium on largely stock or original examples, any premium associated with “matching numbers” fades to zero as restomods increase. The buyer of a pig-cheeked car with a Toyota engine will not be fussing about the various VIN’s. And, with full disclosure, we’ve seen blatantly body-changed cars bring some pretty premium prices, despite VIN swaps!

 

Still… know what you’re buying even if you don’t personally give a rat’s ass about matching numbers! 👍

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

[visionaut]

By example, and I rarely comment re: car sales, the ‘concern’ IMHO re: this particular car is it’s custodianship. 6-8 sales offerings in just the last 8 years - all down the west coast, then to the east coast, now the Midwest — many not by owner but by dealers.  It might be nothing or it might mean something… 

 

Pretty car. Good luck. But be thorough..

 

 

[RJT79]

Please don’t take anything I said in the wrong way, I genuinely appreciate all the wise words that was mentioned.  All in all every thing that everyone said is something that should be considered when looking at a car of this era.  I’m obviously trying to do my due diligence to protect myself in as many ways as possible, with NYNick’s suggestions to put the said car on the forum to be critiqued and discussed, I’m glad that it helped some of the other members learn a few things about the vin numbers while we’re at it.  I’ve had the car looked by a professional third party inside, out, top and bottom. 
 

The car definitely isn’t perfect, its heater blower is out, dash light isn’t on, one of the rear brakes is leaking fluid, and the reverse light wasn’t on in reverse.  But I made sure the dealer would address those things before I committed to it.  The main concern for me was rust and mechanical, which the 3rd party put it in writing that it didn’t have any major mechanical, cosmetic or structural issues.  
 

[NYNick]

This forum has been a huge help to me and many others. The collective knowledge base for 2002's is unparalleled. Nobody has any ulterior motives but to help.

 

Good luck with the car. Sure looks good in the pictures. It's sure to be a hit at your local C&C's!