Clicking from idler arm?

[Mucci]

About 3 months ago I spent a small fortune having every bushing in the front end replaced, including tie rods and center track arm. 
 

I recently started getting a clicking noise when rotating the steering wheel. I got under the car and it sounds like it’s coming from the idler arm (which has new poly bushings). Or at least something right around there.  
 

Any idea why this would be happening?

[71bmr02]

take a look at the center link where it attaches to the driver side pitman arm. bet thats where the clicking noise is coming from. you may need someone to move the steering wheel while you get in a better position to better listen to it.
 

[Mucci]

I was pushing and pulling the wheels / tie rods while under there. What would the clicking noise be coming from? It kind of sounds like a bad ball bearing. 

Edited February 16, 2022 by Mucci

[71bmr02]

The center link attachment points arent like the tierod attachments.  The center link attachments ball rotates in the socket only and when it wears it begins to make a cliking noise.  generally you cant make it click by moving the road wheel or by grabbing it and trying to put enough torque on it to click.  I've never seen one fall apart but when they start clicking it's time to replace them.  you will have to replace the tie rod center (commonly called center link) they dont have separate tie rod ends.

[Mucci]

32 minutes ago, 71bmr02 said:

The center link attachment points arent like the tierod attachments.  The center link attachments ball rotates in the socket only and when it wears it begins to make a cliking noise.  generally you cant make it click by moving the road wheel or by grabbing it and trying to put enough torque on it to click.  I've never seen one fall apart but when they start clicking it's time to replace them.  you will have to replace the tie rod center (commonly called center link) they dont have separate tie rod ends.

The ball is part of the center link? I just replaced that a few months ago…

[2002iii]

5 hours ago, Mucci said:

About 3 months ago I spent a small fortune having every bushing in the front end replaced, including tie rods and center track arm. 
 

I recently started getting a clicking noise when rotating the steering wheel. I got under the car and it sounds like it’s coming from the idler arm (which has new poly bushings). Or at least something right around there.  
 

Any idea why this would be happening?

Probably the polyurethane bushings need to be greased.

[Mucci]

18 hours ago, 2002iii said:

Probably the polyurethane bushings need to be greased.

Is there a way to grease these without taking them apart? 

[71bmr02]

Not on the 2002.  I still maintain the clicking noise is from the center link primarily because i had the same clicking noise and i traced it to the center link.  Replacing the center link is a lot easier than replacing or greasing the pitman arm bushings.  it is possible you will need to do both but my experience with poly bushings is they dont click they may squeak when they need greasing

[Mucci]

34 minutes ago, 71bmr02 said:

Not on the 2002.  I still maintain the clicking noise is from the center link primarily because i had the same clicking noise and i traced it to the center link.  Replacing the center link is a lot easier than replacing or greasing the pitman arm bushings.  it is possible you will need to do both but my experience with poly bushings is they dont click they may squeak when they need greasing

Under closer inspection these were not in fact poly bushings. I believe they’re stock rubber ones. And I’m now 99% sure the noise is coming from the idler arm bushing area. 
 

I took the nut and top cap off and tried to blast some T-9 Boeshield down there but it doesn’t seem to have worked. 
 

Is the blue plastic part supposed to rotate? I can see it moving in a notchy fashion. 

[BarrettN]

For a lube that will get into places try Wurth HHS-2000 or hhs-k (being hhs-k is the California compliant formulation, I've wondered, Germans aren't known for their humor, but is that k for Kalifornia?!) 

It's a grease that sprays on as a liquid but then sets up as a grease. 

[Mucci]

5 hours ago, BarrettN said:

For a lube that will get into places try Wurth HHS-2000 or hhs-k (being hhs-k is the California compliant formulation, I've wondered, Germans aren't known for their humor, but is that k for Kalifornia?!) 

It's a grease that sprays on as a liquid but then sets up as a grease. 

Nice. I love specialty chemical recommendations!

I've been using this stuff:

 

Also sprays on as a liquid then dries. Says it's developed for penetration to lubricate and protect tight spots. Developed by Boeing and great for sealing the inside of tubes and frame rails. Also great for protecting tools from rust. My grandfather was an aerospace machinist and his whole Snap-On tool chest smells of it. I had one of those rapid-reverse memory trips you see in movies the first time I sprayed this stuff as an adult and realized that was the workshop smell of my childhood.

...but I'll give Wurth a try

[BarrettN]

I have both, I think for this application the Wurth product is better suited - and yes, Boeshield is good stuff!

[71bmr02]

boeshield and wurth both contain petroleum hydrocarbons and may damage both rubber and synthetic suspension parts.  I believe these products will work well on metal to metal contact surfaces where a petro product such as grease or oil is recommended.  synthetic grease or synthetic grease with teflon works well on poly bushings.  

[Einspritz]

The blue plastic is not supposed to move in any way. In fact, they should've been installed by hammering them in, with, you know, a hammer.

 

And the torque on the castle nut iirc is about 58 lb.ft. BUT you should tighten it such that it is not tight, but just allows free movement, whatever torque that is. It's a dumb design, but it is what it is.

[Mucci]

12 hours ago, Einspritz said:

The blue plastic is not supposed to move in any way. In fact, they should've been installed by hammering them in, with, you know, a hammer.

 

And the torque on the castle nut iirc is about 58 lb.ft. BUT you should tighten it such that it is not tight, but just allows free movement, whatever torque that is. It's a dumb design, but it is what it is.

So you’re saying trying to spray lubricant in there was the opposite thing to do….