Trouble shooting door switch

[jimk]

11 hours ago, John76 said:

Check the continuity of the Brown/violet wires from the light switch to the driver's door switch, and then to the passenger switch.

And check the continuity of those wires from the light switch directly to ground with the door open.  That check the complete switching circuit including the door switch to ground.

[Overdraft]

Thanks John…did all of this and thankfully It appears my conductors are good because I get continuity everywhere…now new switches both sides yet had to make a pigtail on driver’s side so as to feed passenger side because there is only one blade on the new Hella switch. The PO disconnected the seat belt light and presumably the interconnection with the ignition that I glean from the wiring diagram Would that matter?  Here is a picture of what I have done.  I have made sure to use self taping screws in the existing screw hole to be sure ground is good.
 

I have 12v at red on my light yet  my light stays on in either position (door or switch) which is not correct.  

[John76]

1 hour ago, Overdraft said:

my light stays on in either position (door or switch)

That's because you have the Green and Brown wires pigtailed together....it's always grounded = light on.

The new door switches are grounded through the mounting screw.

When the door switch button is pushed in, there should be no continuity between the tab and the mounting base = light off.

I assume the green wire comes from the light (ground side) and the brown wires go to the other door switch. 

Check that one of the brown wires is not always grounded.

[Overdraft]

Ok…almost there.  Drivers side now works and passenger still doesn’t work.  Passenger side has only one violet- brown conductor into a new switch with proper ground which (I think) it fed from the violet brown on the on driver’s  side which is connected to the driver’s side switch…and I have taped of the ground on the drivers side.  Continuity is there.  Do I assume this passenger is somehow wired into the ignition or seat belt sign or?? because unless I am getting continuity through another device, it is wired like the diagram.  This is the last question otherwise I promise because if I don’t figure this out now, my wife will have me committed.  Thanks to all for your patience.

[John76]

OK...sounds like you are 2/3 of the way to avoiding the psych ward.

Dome light works...Off and On?

Driver's door turns light on when door is open and the dome switch is in the "door" position?

Brown/violet wire is the only wire to the passenger switch from the driver's switch?

Passenger switch mounting tab is grounded to door sill?

Both Brown/violet wires are joined at the 1 terminal on the driver's switch?

Either one or both open doors should turn on the dome light when the switch is in the "door" position.

If all is checked and confirmed, you should be golden.  If not, I'll commit myself first, and save a spot for you. ?

[Overdraft]

Yes..all of the above…but something is up with passenger side….I am wondering if somewhere along the way the violet-brown is wired through something (ignition or buzzer?.)

[Overdraft]

I have to assume the conductor from the right door switch was disconnected or wired into another circuit somewhere in the motor change/ electronic ignition upgrade / fan box/ radio/ cluster swap/ fasten your seat belt sign/ ignition  buzzer changeover history of 49 years.  The driver’s side works brilliantly and I have much work to do before it goes to my engine swap in three weeks or so…and I have vested one work session to many on this.  When I have more time, I will run a new violet-brown from the passenger side to driver’s side and wire it to the diagram.  I appreciate everyone’s help.

 

Update - Ran a new conductor from drivers side to passenger side today as a test and worked brilliantly…BUT ..also had to change the dome light because there wasn’t good contact on one side of the switch So….in the end - one of my door switches was broken, both door stops were missing - passenger conductor defective…fixture switch in door position not making contact ….what a mess!  It all works now just as soon as I run that conductor next weekend.  
 

btw…anyone know where the wire comes from the door frame to the underside of the dashboard so I can run that conductor?  I guess my newly installed carpet on the kick panels are coming out…

 

Thanks again to all.  

Edited February 28, 2022 by Overdraft

[Markster]

Ok my turn!  
 

my new switch drivers side only has one connection!  Where do I put the biluzzer wire?  

 

 

[its55]

4 hours ago, Markster said:

Ok my turn!  
 

my new switch drivers side only has one connection!  Where do I put the biluzzer wire?  

 

 

Dang it ... had mine out a couple of weeks ago but don't recall exactly ... but I though there were two connectors on my driver door switch, and one on the passenger side.

[visionaut]

7 hours ago, Markster said:

my new switch drivers side only has one connection!  Where do I put the biluzzer wire?  

AFAIK, the drivers door switch usually has two terminals. But the second terminal is for the key buzzer, so if you don’t have that still hooked up you can use a single terminal switch for just the dome light. Neither terminal takes a ground wire - the terminals are grounded when you open the door.

 

 

[Markster]

2 hours ago, visionaut said:

AFAIK, the drivers door switch usually has two terminals. But the second terminal is for the key buzzer, so if you don’t have that still hooked up you can use a single terminal switch for just the dome light. Neither terminal takes a ground wire - the terminals are grounded when you open the door.

 

 

So I do want a key buzzer - just because I am so enamored with this lovely car.  This being said your comment is heart of my question.  I will find out of course when I finally put the battery in and the key in and the doors on.  What is curious to me is what will happen if I put all three wires on the one tab of the driver's door switch.  I think there will be a problem....  I think this wire needs to be independent of the other two wires. - therefore the door switch needs modification or someone has to have the proper switch available.

 

W&N simply states one switch, two required per car.  

 

Anyone sourced a driver's side door switch?  Good news is I still have the OE stubby little phillips screw for it.  I have the old switch too - but the contact portion is mia / broken off.

[John76]

16 minutes ago, Markster said:

So I do want a key buzzer

See my wiring sketches posted on Feb. 6 and 13.

The cars with ignition/seatbelt buzzers came with a 2-pin driver's door switch.

Everyone (almost) hated the buzzer, so there was no demand for replacement switches.

John

[Mike Self]

2 hours ago, Markster said:

Anyone sourced a driver's side door switch? 

IIRC that two terminal door switch was used on E-21s and a number of other BMWs of the era that had key buzzers. In fact, I think they're used on E30s.  Regardless, they should still be available new.

 

mike

[jimk]

E30 switches are the same but have an additional rubber water cover to keep the switch from rotting out.  

[Chimi562]

I was able to fix my driver side switch but on the passenger side didn't have the wire connected. I was able to find it inside the glove compartment. I connected the wire to the switch but the light is dim compared to the driver side. Is there another wire I'm missing?