Wiring Help

[Fla2002]

1976 2002 manual transmission going back together. All systems worked prior to disassembly. Emission system removed by previous owner but I believe the wiring is still there.

Can anyone identify these blue wires attached to the left relay on firewall? What are those relays? Thanks in advance, going to have a few more questions and I do have a wire diaphragm.

 

Edited November 4, 2021 by Fla2002
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[FunkyLaneO]

All the wiring encased in blue vinyl is part of the emissions loom, I believe those relays are part of the emissions system as well, they control the magnetic valves (which appear to be removed and why those wires are not plugged into anything) check the emissions system diagrams and do a search for desmog and you can see what can be removed. The only wire in that loom that is required for the car to run is the resistor wire that goes to the coil.

[Conserv]

@John76 has done amazing sketches of many portions of the electrical system, such as the one below.

Those two relays might be for the electric choke and the EGR systems. I don’t see, however, on this sketch, a blue-with-white wire or a gray-with-blue wire. Do those two detached wires emerge from the bundle encased in the blue conduit?

 

The photo below appeared in one of many on removing emissions equipment (to which @FunkyLaneO referred):

 

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

[Mike Self]

I don't think the carb's electric choke is governed by a relay; it's a direct wire from the relevant fuse. 

 

WRT the emissions wiring--At least with the roundies and up to the '75 squarelights (no real experience with 76s) the entire emission control wiring harness is separate from the car's main wiring harness, and plug in at one place, to furnish power to the whole shebang.  Once you've identified all the valves, relays, dashpots etc that form the emission control package, trace the wires from each object and you'll see where the plug into the car's main harness--and I'll wager its in one spot.  Makes it much easier to deal with. 

 

The reason it's separate is that the factory then only had to make one main wiring harness for all 2002s, and they could then add country-specific auxiliary wiring harnesses to meet specific requirements.  

 

mike

[John76]

Here is a pic of the emission related relays, coil connections, and what's in the big blue wiring harness.

There is also a medium sized blue wiring harness that contains the Green/white and Green/blue wires that power the electric choke, idle cutoff solenoid and the thermo-start valve on the 2-barrel Solex carb (through the air temp switch).

[Fla2002]

Wow, great information and details. All emissions parts are gone but wiring. I will get back at it and try to remove the emission harness. Thanks for the help.

[Fla2002]

What I discovered is that 1 wire from the the blue emissions harness goes to #15 on the starter. I traced it back to the green/white wire plugged into #12 on the fuse box. So I have the clear resistor wire and the black/red on the +side coil. This was done by whoever removed the emissions system. 

 

Now I discovered I have no power on the #7-12 side of the fuse box. I have to jump #12 to get power to the coil. Also, no headlights but the parking and tail lights work, no turn signals. Keeping in mind everything worked before I started the restoration

 

The diagrams and emissions bypass information are excellent and I appreciate 

[John76]

The clear resistor wire is spliced to a solid green wire that goes to the HOT (unfused) side of fuse #12. The Green/white wires are on the fused side of #12. These go to the electric choke, idle cutoff solenoid, etc.

Did you check the fuses for 7-12?  Coil should get +12V even if the #12 fuse is blown. The "hot" side in the fuse box is the high side of each fuse.

Here are the sketches for fuses 7-12. Check the fuses first, then track down any problems on the fused sides.

 

 

[Fla2002]

Once again, great information. I will be back at it today. It appears I have everything re connected as I found it as somethings are working. I did not remove the harness from the car, just moved it all into a plastic bag for painting. Hope I did not break a wire somewhere in the harness. 

[Fla2002]

Can anyone identify these 2 wires? They are part of the harness that connects to the brake fluid reservoir cap. 

[2002iii]

39 minutes ago, Fla2002 said:

Can anyone identify these 2 wires? They are part of the harness that connects to the brake fluid reservoir cap. 

Those are for the brake fluid level sensor that is a part of the cap.

[John76]

They are also for the brake balance switch that came on some of the later cars. Not mine, but the wiring is there.

 

[Fla2002]

My brake warning light works so these wires must be for the brake balance switch. My car was built 11/1975. Still working on getting power to the coil. Tail lights and parking lights work. I did notice my hazard light is illuminated when I pull the headlight switch and I thought that switch is part of the turn signal/brake light circuit. 

 

Still no power to 9,10,11,12. 

[John76]

On 11/4/2021 at 10:50 AM, Mike Self said:

I don't think the carb's electric choke is governed by a relay;

You are correct. The electric choke and idle jet cutoff solenoid are always powered with 12V (Green/white wire) when the ignition is "on".

The choke relay in my diagram has a somewhat misleading name. The only thing this relay activates is the thermo-start valve on a 2-barrel Solex carb. This valve richens the mixture when the ambient temp is <59 degrees (F) and/or the coolant temp is <150 degrees (F).

[John76]

7 hours ago, Fla2002 said:

my hazard light is illuminated when I pull the headlight switch

This is normal. The red button glows (dim) when the lights are on. It flashes brightly when the hazard lights are on.

If this bothers  you (some folks don't like seeing a red light when driving at night), just unscrew the red button and pull out the small bulb from the hazard switch. No more red light, but your dash light will still flash.