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Weber 32-36 Adjustable Secondary Linkage


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8 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

Alpha testing is performed by testers who are usually internal employees of the organization. Beta testing is performed by monkey's with hammers (general population) who are going to break and mutilate it in ways the developer never would think of in his wildest dreams. 

There, I fixed it for you Tom.

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If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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On 6/13/2021 at 11:54 AM, John76 said:

With a 3.90 diff., what's your speed and rpm (4th gear) when the secondary kicks in? 

 

I did some more Alpha testing yesterday and put about 100 miles on the car, some of which were on the highway. 

 

I'd have to be cruising very fast for the secondary to stay involved.  I still have to depress the pedal a bit to bring it in, but less than before.  The secondary kicking in is strictly a function of pedal position, as opposed to mph / rpm.

 

 

The prototype has been received / installed and testing has begun! 

 

Tracking number 9500115XX71XX166231063
 
Delivered
sosmJTQU2BryrgHbD0Vq8WA2-b01y8iuP_GcGuEw
June 16, 01:08PM
Bellingham, WA
 
(this part is going to be fun)
 
Tom
Edited by '76mintgrün'02

   

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1 hour ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 The secondary kicking in is strictly a function of pedal position, as opposed to mph / rpm.

 

Yes, exactly!  I wanted to know how fast you can cruise while still on the primary.

I have put together a microswitch and bracket that will illuminate the BRAKE light on the dash when the secondary kicks in.

This is wired to the connections for the brake pressure switch "thingy" that was never installed on my car...except the wiring.

Look forward to sharing my results soon. 

John

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I installed the Adjustable Secondary Linkage piece yesterday for Beta testing. At this time it is "factory" set at 0.060" as received from Tom. Driving impressions are similar to what Tom describes. I'm not the kind of driver that floors the gas pedal very often, I always like to keep a little extra power in reserve but I do appreciate the little boost it provides with my driving style. I enjoy this setting but will play around with adjusting it down as time allows. And continue to work on getting my throttle linkage squared away, also I found a number of the carburetor pieces are strangely bent.

 

I did have some issues initially in that I had to press the pedal more firmly than before the change but that's probably on the worn/bent linkage parts and my failure to take a picture of the set up before I tore it apart. 

DSC_0289.JPG

I found that my horizontal linkage piece was not straight so I straightened that out as best I could.

DSC_0296.JPG

I also discovered that the shim hold down screw on the new linkage was making contact with the Fast Idle Loose Lever which for some reason was bent, or at least that's what I think it's called.  You can see where I straightened it out in the picture at the end of the punch.

DSC_0290.JPG

My throttle spring is well off the firewall or heater hose but it may not be set up correctly either. It also may not even be the correct spring for all I know. I may move it down to that unused bracket on the firewall which should reduce the tension.

 

I'm glad I installed it, cheap tinkering fun that actually made a difference in the character of the car and it can always be taken out of the system w/out having to take anything off thanks to the handy mini shorty allen wrench.

 

Edited by 7502
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That sounds like a cool installation.  Will it be easy to adjust the switch to follow the setting on the loose link adjuster?

 

I played around with a similar idea, but my switches are all pretty clunky.  I did find some fun indicator lights, but don't know where I'd install them.  Using the brake light is a good solution. 

 

Maybe my seatbelt pod needs some beady red lights installed in its face.

 

IMG_9463.JPG

 

I have all my pretty emissions wiring intact and it has interesting plugs at the ends of those blue sheathed wires.  It'd be fun to unwind them and figure out what went where and what's hot when the key's on, or not.  But I'm too lazy/busy/dystracted.

 

I am eager to see photos of your setup, John.   Along with the wiring diagram, I hope.


Tom

 

 

   

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1 hour ago, 7502 said:

Beta testing

 

Thank you for all that information with photos to boot!  I couldn't ask for a better beta tester.

 

It's neat how this led to straightening out that buggered up linkage.  Some of your upcoming fun might come from those improvements.

 

Here's how my spring is set up, except it is hooked in the hole that the cable is attached to in the photo below.  It gives a very sensitive pedal that lets you feel when the secondary spring comes in.

 

IMG_9274.JPG

 

1 hour ago, 7502 said:

I enjoy this setting but will play around with adjusting it down as time allows.

 

I want to dial mine back to .030" right now and then try to resist taking a test drive.

Or, maybe just a short test drive.

 

Tom

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Due to lefty-loosie / righty-tighty, it is a little tricky to adjust the link while on the carburetor because the screw head wants to pull the tab away from the shaft as it gets tightened down.  That must be how the crooked tab (shown above) happened.

 

I just pushed the adjuster down tight and shoved in on it with the tip of a screw driver while tightening it.  It's totally doable, but a little tedious.

 

I took my test run and it was a short one because .030" put the transition deeper than I want it.  I came back home and reset it to .060".  I'll try more than that later, just to see how it affects the primary's travel and how it feels under foot.  I suspect .060" might be the sweet spot.  

 

Tom

 

 

   

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23 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

the screw head wants to pull the tab away from the shaft

What about a thin washer under the head? 

 

I straightened out another bent carburetor piece and reduced the tension on the big spring on the firewall and it feels great now. Now I can almost keep up with F150's and Prius's off the stop light.  Can't imagine how those carb pieces and linkages became so bent on my set up. I'll blame it on the PO.

 

I'm thinking 0.045" might be a good next step but I'm in no hurry to tweak it just yet. I'll keep it at 0.060" for a couple weeks.

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8 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

it has interesting plugs at the ends of those blue sheathed wires.  It'd be fun to unwind them and figure out what went where and what's hot when the key's on, or not. 

 

Tom,

Here is what is in the mysterious blue shielded harness. Also included is the "other" smog stuff.

Wish I lived in the land of "Evergreen Trees".

John

 

Blue Wiring Harness.jpg

 

Smog Stuff.jpg

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3 hours ago, 7502 said:

What about a thin washer under the head? 

 

A washer might help with the twisting.  I'll add one and see.  I skipped it, trying to keep the profile as low as possible, since that other lever is close behind.  There's room for a washer though, as long as the linkage is straight.

 

 

John, thank you for all the colorful drawings/information.  One of these days I'd like to install a little light under my air cleaner to make it easier to see the carburetor idle adjustment screws and I might use one of those smog wires as a power source.

 

8 minutes ago, John76 said:

Wish I lived in the land of "Evergreen Trees".

 

Are you referring to this?

 

IMG_9380.JPG

 

If so, send me a PM to discuss it.  ;)  I could use another Beta Tester.

Tom

   

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Here's the pictures of the micro switch I installed, and the wiring sketch for the indicator (BRAKE) light on the dash.

I am curious to see when the secondary opens on the Weber...especially since Tom is tinkering with the clever adjustable secondary linkage.

The micro switch is wired for "normally closed", and is resting on the secondary throttle tab. When the tab moves, the switch will activate the Brake light on the dash. I'm hoping to see how fast I can drive on just the primary circuit.

I have the connections for the brake pressure switch, but my car did not have this...I think it was a late '76 model feature.

 

 

Micro Switch Installed.jpg

Micro Switch.jpg

Switch Assembly.jpg

Bracket Back View.jpgBracket Installed on Manifold.jpg

Switch connection point.jpg

Brake Light on Dash.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

I drove about 200 miles with the micro switch illuminating the dash brake light whenever the secondary throttle opened on the Weber 32/36. 

Results: Interesting but not surprising.

I could easily cruise at 85mph on just the primary.  4500rpm = 85mph with 3.64 diff, 13" wheels and 185/70-13 tires.

The opening of the secondary only influenced how quickly you got up to speed.

Kinda fun shifting through the gears....dash light reminded me of a shift point indicator (rev limiter).

 

What did you find with your adjustable throttle???  Did you need a "fuel squirter" for the secondary??

 

John

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2 minutes ago, John76 said:

What did you find with your adjustable throttle???  Did you need a "fuel squirter" for the secondary??

 

 

I find I like the .060" adjustment.  I've left it like that.

 

No need for a squirter that I can see.  The AFR shows that it transitions nicely when the secondary tips in.

 

I assume you are referring to a second accelerator pump nozzle, when you say squirter, right?


Tom 

 

 

   

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36 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

I assume you are referring to a second accelerator pump nozzle, when you say squirter, right?

 

 

Yes, but that would be a dumb idea. It would squirt into a closed throttle plate at low speeds .

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