Weber dcoe 45 jetting Help

[zinz]

4 hours ago, Preyupy said:

Ignition timing is WAY retarded once you get off idle.  I would suspect you will want something like 32-24 deg by 3000

 

This can not be overstated for sidedrafts...

 

Ed

[Preyupy]

You need to remove the #1 spark plug and take the valve cover off.  Turn the engine over until the timing mark on the cam is directly under the oil spray bar. Now with a long skinny rod or screw driver reach through the spark plug hole and feel the top of the piston.  With the car in top gear gently rock the car forward until you feel the piston start to move down, now do the same going backwards.  It takes a bit of trial and error but you want to find the exact point of TDC, you can move it forward until you feel the piston just start to move and put a mark on the flywheel just inside the window then do the same when you are going backwards then split the difference between the 2 marks to give you a true TDC.  Now mark the flywheel! 

 

The sensor you have on the front of the engine is supposed to be at 11 teeth after the missing tooth when the engine is at TDC.  Every tooth is 6 degrees so if you are off by just a half of a tooth you will be 3 degrees off. 

 

You have to know where you actually are with timing and you MUST confirm this with a known ACCURATE TDC mark on the crankshaft pulley or flywheel and check it with a timing light.  Then you can adjust the initial timing dial to get what you really want.  Right now you have the dial set at 16 degrees but you have no idea if this is what is actually happening.  You might find that the "initial timing" knob is off by 10 degrees or more (that is less than 2 teeth on the wheel) don't worry about it, just set the initial timing at some known setting and WRITE IT DOWN.  This is your new starting point.   Once you have a known initial timing you can safely work on a TOTAL advance number (again I would probably start at 32 deg BTDC at 3000)  run the 8000 rpm knob at 0 for now. 

[Gre@semonkey02]

You need to remove the #1 spark plug and take the valve cover off.  Turn the engine over until the timing mark on the cam is directly under the oil spray bar. Now with a long skinny rod or screw driver reach through the spark plug hole and feel the top of the piston.  With the car in top gear gently rock the car forward until you feel the piston start to move down, now do the same going backwards.  It takes a bit of trial and error but you want to find the exact point of TDC, you can move it forward until you feel the piston just start to move and put a mark on the flywheel just inside the window then do the same when you are going backwards then split the difference between the 2 marks to give you a true TDC.  Now mark the flywheel! 
 
The sensor you have on the front of the engine is supposed to be at 11 teeth after the missing tooth when the engine is at TDC.  Every tooth is 6 degrees so if you are off by just a half of a tooth you will be 3 degrees off. 
 
You have to know where you actually are with timing and you MUST confirm this with a known ACCURATE TDC mark on the crankshaft pulley or flywheel and check it with a timing light.  Then you can adjust the initial timing dial to get what you really want.  Right now you have the dial set at 16 degrees but you have no idea if this is what is actually happening.  You might find that the "initial timing" knob is off by 10 degrees or more (that is less than 2 teeth on the wheel) don't worry about it, just set the initial timing at some known setting and WRITE IT DOWN.  This is your new starting point.   Once you have a known initial timing you can safely work on a TOTAL advance number (again I would probably start at 32 deg BTDC at 3000)  run the 8000 rpm knob at 0 for now. 

Okay I'll do that

Also what's good numbers for my Weber 45s

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[Preyupy]

What do you mean "good numbers"?   Your main and air corrector sizes are in the ball park,  along with the F16 E-Tube,  a F9 E-tube is also common on M10 engines. The 36mm chokes are good for street use and give good throttle response and mid range torque,  38mm are better up top but you sacrifice bottom end.  Once you get it so it's drivable on the street then you can start fine tuning.  BTW where are you? Sea level or up around 10,000' ?  This is all based on close to sea level altitude.  If you are up in Denver you can run more advance and less fuel. 

Edited April 22, 2019 by Preyupy

[Gre@semonkey02]

What do you mean "good numbers"?   Your main and air corrector sizes are in the ball park,  along with the F16 E-Tube,  a F9 E-tube is also common on M10 engines. The 36mm chokes are good for street use and give good throttle response and mid range torque,  38mm are better up top but you sacrifice bottom end.  Once you get it so it's drivable on the street then you can start fine tuning.  BTW where are you? Sea level or up around 10,000' ?  This is all based on close to sea level altitude.  If you are up in Denver you can run more advance and less fuel. 

I am in Ontario Canada

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[Gre@semonkey02]

What do you mean "good numbers"?   Your main and air corrector sizes are in the ball park,  along with the F16 E-Tube,  a F9 E-tube is also common on M10 engines. The 36mm chokes are good for street use and give good throttle response and mid range torque,  38mm are better up top but you sacrifice bottom end.  Once you get it so it's drivable on the street then you can start fine tuning.  BTW where are you? Sea level or up around 10,000' ?  This is all based on close to sea level altitude.  If you are up in Denver you can run more advance and less fuel. 

So I'm running right now had the car out this morning 130 main 50 idle jet ( u says to run 45f8 jet ? )

F9 e tube

180 correction

36 mm choke

4.5 aux ventury

200 needle and seat

45 pump jet

40 pump spill

 

Alot of guy run 34mm choke and 5.0 aux ventury or should I keep it how it is ?

 

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[Son of Marty]

I would start with changing the idle jets to 45f9's as Byron (Preyupy) recommends. your main circuit and e-tube are going to be close enough to start tuning

Edited April 22, 2019 by Son of Marty

[Son of Marty]

34's or 36's is really going to depend on where and how you drive. 34's are nice if your regular driving involves traffic but will lower your top end power. 36's are nice if your driving on more open roads. IMHO tune it with the 36's you have for now while you get the jetting all dialed in then you could try the 34's if you need more bottom end.

[Gre@semonkey02]

34's or 36's is really going to depend on where and how you drive. 34's are nice if your regular driving involves traffic but will lower your top end power. 36's are nice if your driving on more open roads. IMHO tune it with the 36's you have for now while you get the jetting all dialed in then you could try the 34's if you need more bottom end.

Also I noticed when I floor it boogs down what would that be ?

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[Hans]

As Preyupy said, 32 to 34 deg by 3000 to start. That means about 10 deg at idle with a non vac dizzy on my car. I don't know how thoroughly IE checks floats, etc., so doesn't hurt to revisit settings. You may need to make your own paint marks on the flywheel or ftont pulley. 

[Gre@semonkey02]

As Preyupy said, 32 to 34 deg by 3000 to start. That means about 10 deg at idle with a non vac dizzy on my car. I don't know how thoroughly IE checks floats, etc., so doesn't hurt to revisit settings. You may need to make your own paint marks on the flywheel or ftont pulley. 

Okay thanks

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[Son of Marty]

You need to get the carbs and timing dialed in before flooring it is going to work in anyway. The beauty of webers is you can tune everything, the draw back of webers is you need to tune everything before you'll be happy with them.

[Gre@semonkey02]

You need to get the carbs and timing dialed in before flooring it is going to work in anyway. The beauty of webers is you can tune everything, the draw back of webers is you need to tune everything before you'll be happy with them.

Yes I know

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[2002Scoob]

19 hours ago, Gre@semonkey02 said:

Timing
Initial is 16
3000 is 21
And 8000 is 1

Float level they are brand new carbs didn't touch float level fuel pressure 2.0 to 2.5 psi

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Your timing seems to be your biggest issue... have you fixed that yet?

 

I hope that '1' is a typo... If it isn't. I'm surprised that thing rev'd at all. And I wouldn't keep doing it if it could...

 

Besides the 45's, we're not terribly off of builds. (I have 40's) But I have a tad lower compression (9.5, but likely a tad more with a heavily decked head, retarded cam timing, and a small host of other edits to avoid valves tap-dancing on pistons). More compression=slightly less advance. 

 

Here was my starting point to where things started to run pretty good. I've since tweaked from there. 

 

You could start with 28@3000, and then have it taper towards 30. 

 

I'd set your redline to 6500... the 292 doesn't seem to make much power beyond it, and if you haven't reinforced the rest of your valvetrain, you don't wanna be spinning past that (or up to it) for long anyway.  

 

Edited April 23, 2019 by 2002Scoob

[Gre@semonkey02]

 
Your timing seems to be your biggest issue... have you fixed that yet?
 
I hope that '1' is a typo... If it isn't. I'm surprised that thing rev'd at all. And I wouldn't keep doing it if it could...
 
Besides the 45's, we're not terribly off of builds. (I have 40's) But I have a tad lower compression (9.5, but likely a tad more with a heavily decked head, retarded cam timing, and a small host of other edits to avoid valves tap-dancing on pistons). More compression=slightly less advance. 
 
Here was my starting point to where things started to run pretty good. I've since tweaked from there. 
 
You could start with 28@3000, and then have it taper towards 30. 
 
I'd set your redline to 6500... the 292 doesn't seem to make much power beyond it, and if you haven't reinforced the rest of your valvetrain, you don't wanna be spinning past that (or up to it) for long anyway.  
 

Okay so first time I started the car I had the knob turn to 13 degree it was running rough so I had it to put it closer to 15 degree for initial on my xdi box runs and Revs up good I didn't hear any ping or knock when I drove it or anything I'll drop the 3000 down to 15 to make it total of 30 but I'm running good high octane gad so should be safe but my first thing I need to do is get my timing light working to make sure my initial is right .

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