Source for rebuild kits for Bosch alternators?

[02Pilot]

I'm in the process of slowly rebuilding the pile of spares I've accumulated over the decades, and I've gotten down to the alternator strata. I haven't pulled any of them apart yet, but I can guess I'll be looking for slip rings, brushes, and bearings at a minimum. Anyone know of a source for these parts, preferably in the States?

[stephers]

Try Alternator and Starter Parts Wholesale   I think that they are in Florida.   727-312-3133

[kbmb02]

1 hour ago, Andrej said:

I'm in the process of slowly rebuilding the pile of spares I've accumulated over the decades, and I've gotten down to the alternator strata. I haven't pulled any of them apart yet, but I can guess I'll be looking for slip rings, brushes, and bearings at a minimum. Anyone know of a source for these parts, preferably in the States?

 

I can connect you with a rebuilder here in Southern California (he rebuilds my alternators “Better than Bosch”), perhaps he’ll sell to you and/or share sources. PM me if interested. -KB

[Buckeye]

I have rebuilt a couple core alternator before.

 

SLIP RING 12311354689 (BMW #), it was Bosch 1124304007 BOSCH-COLLECTOR RING, ROTOR

dimension are very important 

http://alternators-starters.blogspot.com/2015/01/1124304007-bosch-collector-ring-rotor.html

 

CARBON BRUSH SET12318602191

Best place for carbon brush set is your favorite BMW dealer or Bluntech

 

Front GROOVED BALL BEARING    12311714522    40X17X12

Used Nachi equivalent bearing for more reasonable price

 

Will let you know rear bearing size later

 

 

Edited March 3, 2019 by Buckeye

[Flamingo 5]

9 hours ago, kbmb02 said:

 

I can connect you with a rebuilder here in Southern California (he rebuilds my alternators “Better than Bosch”), perhaps he’ll sell to you and/or share sources. PM me if interested. -KB

Is “better than Bosch” the business name?

[kbmb02]

14 hours ago, West Palm 2002 said:

Is “better than Bosch” the business name?

 

No, not their business name.

(I suspect Bosch attornies would have an issue with that name. So, Bosch-Rn’t-Us ??)

[02Pilot]

Thanks folks, and particularly Buckeye for the part numbers. I'll see what I can track down.

[D.martijn]

If you know the part number of the alternator, just send an email to Bosch, they will send you a exploded view with the related part numbers.

I did this for my alternator and starter. (see attachment)

 

 

0 001 311 100.pdf

0 120 400 752.pdf

[BarrettN]

I'm curious, can anyone here comment on what limitations there are in rebuilding an original alternator versus replacing it with a more modern unit? I have a 74 tii, and have read the threads about what alternators can be swapped in from later cars, but I like the idea of having the original fitment that having an original one rebuilt would give. I'm adding AC & am planning on using a Spal fan, so I'd like to bump up the available power. 

Edited March 4, 2019 by BarrettN

[Simeon]

19 minutes ago, BarrettN said:

so I'd like to bump up the available power

 

You can't (easily) do this yourself.  Specialists can rewind the rotor / stator to get more output from the same alternator but you are likely to be limited to replacing bearings and other wearing components.  If you are looking for a greater output then look into replacing the alternator with one from a later model.

[BarrettN]

Sorry I wasn't clear, but yes, I understand that someone would need to rewind an original alternator. My question was more as to what limitations there are with rewinding one, knowing that more modern alternators produce more power, I assume there may be changes in design that might keep an older unit from producing as much power even once having been rewould. 

Edited March 5, 2019 by BarrettN

[02Pilot]

I don't know a lot about the specifics, but I would imagine the major limitations on upping output would be heat (note how modern alternators are generally vented around the circumference and often have a dedicated cooling air duct as well) and physical case size. Unless you're really stuck on originality - and that doesn't seem to be the case, given the Spal - I can't think of any reason why a more modern unit would be easier and likely cheaper.

[Simeon]

2 minutes ago, BarrettN said:

Sorry I wasn't clear, but yes, I understand that someone would need to rewind an original alternator. My question was more as to what limitations there are with rewinding one, knowing that more modern alternators produce more power, I assume there may be changes in design that might keep an older unit from producing as much power even once having been rewould. 

 

OK - An alternator can be re-wound to provide a greater output but you may find that this is only achieved at higher revs than stock, may even cause a greater parasitical drag on the engine (compared to a similar sized but purposed designed alternator) or may ultimately be less reliable (smaller gauge wire used to get greater coil turns on the same rotor form, greater current put through the standard diodes).  The modification is likely to be a compromise in some way, otherwise Bosch would have configured it for greater output to begin with.  I would suggest a chat with a specialist and see what they can offer.  Watch out for claimed maximum outputs that are only seen at very high revs, see if they can demonstrate an example that consistently provides an increased output over a wider range of engine speed (considering how much time your car spends at idle or close to idle).

 

A higher output stock alternator is likely to be purpose designed with a larger body to accommodate larger windings, bigger diodes, accommodate more heat etc as well as provide its maximum output at a lower engine speed.

 

As they say when considering electrical or electronic engineering - 'you cannot shrink the Watt' i.e. the physical size of components is usually defined by the amount of power it dissipates (or generates in the case of an alternator). 

[Einspritz]

I don't think you rewind; theoretically you buy a new stator rated for greater amperage. You may need a commensurate diode pack, but the internal "guts" should all fit in the same shape housings.

 

I haven't done this, but am looking into it; the increased amperage demand from O2 sensors (4 Amp), ignition modules (12 Amp), driving lights (20 Amp) and more all add to the demand.

 

Also look into the adjustable voltage regulators or a Bosch 14.5V unit so you can at least increase the voltage to the battery while your parasitic electricals are lowering your baseline voltage.

 

The other consideration is the fact that your wires are probably the original 40 year old wires and have such increased resistance that lights are dim, gauges go whacky and a whole host of other problems.......V=IR!

[BarrettN]

Mmm, it hadn't occurred to me to use the higher voltage regulator, with some decent lights and AC that's probably a good idea.