Steering drag link really rubbing hard on Getrag 240

[halboyles]

Is it possible that the PO did not pound out the driver's side tunnel to accommodate the wider 240 trans and slave cylinder holder?  If they didn't do that then the tranny wouldn't be able to fit all the way up into the tunnel.

[BarrettN]

From what I've read, I thought that it's only the 265 that requires pounding out - can someone correct me if I'm wrong?

 

[halboyles]

Not true.  The 240 and 245 both have similar geometries and require "adjustments" to the tunnel.

[BarrettN]

1 hour ago, jimk said:

This picture has problems.  The trans mount has something under it that raises the trans.  The cross the tunnel support is not up tight against the tunnel chair.

Agreed - "The transmission mount isn't tightened to the crossbar"  - all this is as I got the car in the current un-running, draglink rubbing state. I'm just getting started troubleshooting the problem, but my thought was that the higher the output end of the transmission, the better. I'm assuming that the whole engine\transmission assembly would be pivoting on an axis formed by the engine mounts, right? The problem is that the top of the tunnel is pretty much out of space for it to go up more, it's almost touching on the driver's side. It's hard to get a picture that shows how close it is, maybe I can get a tape up in there where a person can then see scale.

[Jimmy]

11 minutes ago, BarrettN said:

my thought was that the higher the output end of the transmission, the better. I'm assuming that the whole engine\transmission assembly would be pivoting on an axis formed by the engine mounts, right? The problem is that the top of the tunnel is pretty much out of space for it to go up more, it's almost touching on the driver's side. It's hard to get a picture that shows how close it is, maybe I can get a tape up in there where a person can then see scale.

 

You'll also need room for adjustment to align the transmission and driveshaft. I've heard that 5-speed swaps tend to go through giubos. Maybe the interference keeping them from getting adjusted correctly is the reason.

[jimk]

I bent the mounting ears of the center bearing up so the bearing centerline sits lower.  That was enough with some shims to get what I consider perfect alignment in all 4 quadrants of driveshaft rotation at the trans and driveshaft flange using an inside caliper.

The 245 did hit the tunnel if set too high.

I also adjusted the tilt on the differential/subframe so the pinion shaft is parallel to the engine/trans centerline to avoid rumble.  Look up what a shaft with double cardan u-joint setup needs.

40K miles on the guibo so far and in service for many more behind the S14.

Edited February 19, 2019 by jimk
sp

[rstclark]

Wait to get your driveshaft and do a straight line alignment of the driveshaft from the tranny to the rear end.  If the engine and tranny were just stuffed in by the PO for expediency without  a BFH applied to the tunnel for clearance of the slave cylinder in particular you can't get there from here. Patience is called for at this point   Work on something else in the meantime. 

You has the ability to fix this.  all in good time

[02crazy]

If you can locate jake b blog he mentions it. I've done it but can't get to my car due to snow?  

[tech71]

On 2/19/2019 at 10:47 AM, BarrettN said:

I think at this point I need to find someone who has a Getrag 240 and quiz them about where it sits in the tunnel and what if anything had to be done to it. 

Yea, that would be me. Thought I would revive this thread to share some hard earned info regarding installing a 240 into an M10 engine equipped 2002. You may have it sorted by now but here goes:

First off I would love to see a Pic of your complete rear trans support setup. Looks like yours is fitted up in the tunnel. Something odd is going on there for sure.

Heres what I know about the center track rod clearance. Its going to hit on the square boss on the trans case when turning.

Dont think this has much to do with alignment or shimming or height of your springs. Has to do with a big square boss on the 240 being directly in the path of your center track rod.

I cut some clearance in mine with the rod installed. That way I could check clearance through the rods travel as I went. Started with a pencil grinder and carbide bit and switched to a  mini grinder and carbide bit.

If your track rod is out just remove some metal from that thing.  Start at the corner and increase the radius there.

 

My 240 is in but not road tested yet. The only aftermarket part I bought was a rear cross member mount from Blunt and a 5 speed clutch line from IE.

Maybe I should write an article, tried to photo doc most of it.

 

Edited October 11, 2019 by tech71

[Colin]

I had to grind away one of the ribs on the case of mine to clear the drag link.  No big deal.

[BarrettN]

Thanks for following up on this - very timely, I should finish up messing with my parts car this weekend and finally get to work on my tii. You've all made me feel that I know what I need to in order to pin it down. (BTW, so no one thinks I've been wasting their time - when I first posted this I hadn't bought my parts car. It certainly set my schedule back, but lots of good parts and a better understanding of how it all comes apart has made it all worthwhile). 

[Spyke]

Hate to bump a slightly stale post like this...

 

But just in case anyone else is in the same spot, I would very happily buy a drop center drag link from Ken over at 2002 Underground. Makes the clearance a complete non-issue.

[BarrettN]

Thanks - as it turns out, I'd come across the 02 Underground center link and bought one. now just to get time to work on the car. I am thankful to be able to work from home, so not having time is really a minor complaint compared to all the people who are not so lucky.

Edited April 18, 2020 by BarrettN