Front brakes not releasing

[osbourne]

Before I go and order any parts, I'd like to try to get some feed-back from some of you guys.

Last year, in an effort to get my front brakes to release, after each application, I replaced all of the brake hoses.  No change.  Hmmm...…….

Well, I was driving my MGA most of the time, last year (this year, too ;)), so I put the Bimmer aside.  This year, after missing out on having my Bimmer operational for PVGP and O'fest (super busy w/work, plus I'm in charge of planning & managing PVGP's Countryside Tour).

 

So, my question is do I need to look into the master cylinder for the solution to the problem?  Sticking check valve?  That m/c has been in there for longer than I care to admit (I normally replace brake system components as part of my maintenance routine, rather than waiting for them to cause problems).

 

The calipers have been replaced within recent memory (though I can't recall exactly when it was).  The car lives in a very dry building and never sees crappy weather service.  So...…………….?

[jireland2002]

More info please.  Which of the wheels won't release.  All, front, rear, left, right?  How does the peddle feel?

[Schnellvintage]

If I am interpreting your problem correctly, is your pedal not returning to normal position???  this would apply pressure to the master cylinder and not releasing both front and rear brakes (pads/shoes respectively).  I had this problem after replacing the entire brake system including rebuilding the pedal box with IE bearing kit, except for one (often neglected) item...….The brake booster, was getting stuck and not returning.  The plunger was getting cocked and not allowing the spring to press it back to resting position.  Once I removed it (booster) it was easily seen what was happening.  I called IE and luckily he had a rebuilt unit that was an exact match.  After I installed the rebuilt booster, I had fantastic brakes.  Just possibly something to look into if the pedal is not returning to its resting position.

Matt

[PaulTWinterton]

My only experience with sticking front brakes came from bad calipers.   Liberal brake clean and coxing pistons with a large screwdriver helped but ultimately I replaced the calipers. I chalk ut up to not driving enough. ?

[osbourne]

Front (both) are not releasing.  Normal pedal action.  Haven't opened either bleeder valve, yet.  May have a few minutes to play with it tomorrow morning.  Next opportunity won't be until Tuesday evening.

 

This car does not get driven enough, anymore.  I need to do something about that.!

[osbourne]

Matt,

Pedal seems to be returning to it's normal position, but I know it doesn't take much to keep the return port from being uncovered and releasing the brakes.  So, I'll pay special attention to all that you mentioned.

 

This car has about 84,000 original miles and the booster is the original.  My dad bought it, new, in early '72 and it's always had very good care...…….just not a lot of driving over the past 30+ years.  Life (and my Brit cars) keeps getting in the way.

[Schnellvintage]

Once your in the car, no need to drive it. Start it, and press the brake pedal down. Then, reach down and see if you can pull the brake pedal back up. If it returns all the way back without issue, I would then look at the flex lines. They can deteriorate from the inside and clog the line. Btw what does the fluid look like? If at all dark then renew fluid first.
I hope that helps.
Matt


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[osbourne]

Matt,

Flex lines are all new, as of last year.  God help us if they deteriorate that fast.   I replace them every five years, as a matter of routine maintenance.  Same with rear wheel cylinders.  Brake fluid is replaced, obviously, at the same time.  So, the fluid is new, as well.

May get a chance, later this morning, to start and check pedal return as you suggest.  Otherwise, it won't be until Tuesday evening.

[osbourne]

Finally got a few minutes to go out and start the engine and push & release the brake pedal.  I found that it returned, completely.  Repeated and checked, again.  Same result.  Pedal returns fully "up", with no movement, when pulled up on, by hand.

 

So, I'm thinking it's probably time to order new/rebuilt calipers, so I can get the poor thing out and DRIVE it, again.

[Schnellvintage]

These cars were made to be driven!



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[Stevenc22]

Yeah rebuilt calipers are cheap and worth replacing. I have a jaguar E type i only drive once or twice a year and every time i pull it out, something has rusted or seized purely from not being driven.

[Hans]

Is there not some sort of valve in the master cyl? That said, i'd be looking at calipers.

[Hans]

what about pads getting stuck due to rust, etc?

[Conserv]

1 hour ago, Stevenc22 said:

Yeah rebuilt calipers are cheap and worth replacing. I have a jaguar E type i only drive once or twice a year and every time i pull it out, something has rusted or seized purely from not being driven.

 

Well, Steven,

 

I’d say your E-Type is sending you a message, loud and clear! “Drive me!” ?

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

[Schnellvintage]

Hans, if your calipers and pads have that much rust to keep them from unlocking, you might need more than just rebuilt/new calipers. Photos/pics of calipers, master cylinder, and fluid color would be very helpful.
Just sayin...

Cheers,
Matt




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