Rebuilt solex phh40 carbs

[tisalover]

The short snorkels only came on 2000 Tilux to the best of my knowledge. I've only seen them on two other occasions, and wish I had kept a set. Sincerely, Peter

[Naz]

I'm referring to the 4 rubber hoses that attach between carb and air filter.


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[ScottCLo]

Makes sense. I have been told by others that they where trimmed but they are cut too even. The edges are smooth with no bare metal.

[ScottCLo]

6 minutes ago, Naz said:

I'm referring to the 4 rubber hoses that attach between carb and air filter.

They are BMW part # 13 72 0 642 158 and i think they are still available from the dealer.

[Naz]

Got it, thanks Scotty


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[Hans]

So does anyone have some unmolested 40pph carbs that can be used to confirm the float height setting? Perhaps count the threads showing or measure the gap between teh external adjusting bits?  

[Naz]

Hans, here is a couple pics of the inside. I don't see a marking for float level. Not sure what to look for.

Also, I have these base gaskets for heat conduction for a Webber. They are a little to big in diameter. Do you think that will matter or should I try and find the right size?





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[halboyles]

I'll have a look at the few sets of 40phhs I have but I don't recall there being any float level help inside the carbs.  There have been some other creative ways to set the level that can be found using search (the Google link that Steve put under the search option at the top of the page is very effective).

But for the masochists out there you could always try to replicate BMW's original water torture method, see pic.

[Hans]

Unless it's that ledge in the bowl. Those brass gizmos on top of the carb adjust the float. Mine are out perhaps 1/4 - 3/8" as I recall. Yours look almost all the way in. I thought some original un modified carbs will give  a clue to what it was originally. I recall something like 17 or 24 mm of fuel, but that requires filling the bowl and the pulling the top to measure. That gets complicated. I doubt any of those test stands survived.

[Naz]

I was thinking the same thing about that ledge Hans. My gizmos are all the way in as well.


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[zinz]

So... I'm having the same questions about fuel level in a PHH after rebuilding and installing a set on my '67 2000CS.  I'm getting fuel out of the vents and the engine is flooded very quickly. I took the tops off the carbs and the fuel level in the bowl does not appear to be high at all... I hope to mess with it more, tomorrow.  Could be too much fuel pressure, but I'm using an old, 90 degree Pierburg mechanical pump (that I also just rebuilt).  I'll get a pressure gauge on it, I suppose.

 

In the meantime... here's some old links as to where the fuel height should be.  The mark you guys are looking for is located on the outside of the carb, between the barrels and is a very fine, casting mark.  (I'll try to get a picture of it tomorrow)

 

http://forums.190slgroup.com/showthread.php?8435-Adjusting-your-Solex-fuel-level-the-easy-way!

 

Ed

[zinz]

Okay... I sorted out my overfueling issue today.  Seems the old, 90 degree Pierburg was delivering way too much pressure/volume and was pushing fuel past the needle valves.  I quickly plumbed a fuel pressure regulator and extra fuel filter after the Pierburg to watch what would occur.  Turned the regulator to 2.5lbs and presto, no more problems.  The rebuild kit I put into the Pierburg must have a stronger spring and/or diaphragm in it... The Pierburg on my '71 gives me zero troubles...

 

To give some advice on fuel levels for the PHH, I ended up with 1 1/2 turns out from fully seated on the brass, needle valve holder. (Loosen the jam nut and turn out the fuel inlet section 1 1/2 turns and retighten the jam nut.  My engine runs well enough at this setting.  I may fine-tune this later on, and I did not check the actual fuel level by removing the top of the carbs.  

 

I did take a picture of a spare PHH to illustrate the fuel level mark that Solex put on the outer case.  In between the barrels, you will see a line in the casting...this is the fuel level.  You need to somehow measure that distance from the top of the carb body, then measure down into the bowl to the fuel level.  The two links I posted above give other methods and each should get the job done. 

 

Hope this helps,

Ed Z

 

[Naz]

Very informative thread. Thanks for your input Ed. I think we can all
nail this down based on all the info. we have here.


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[Naz]

Very informative thread. Thanks for your input Ed. I think we can all
nail this down based on all the info. we have here.


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[zinz]

Glad to help.  In speaking with Toby he tells me that the new spring I installed on the Pierburg is what is causing the over-pressure problem.  Well....it seems I should have replaced it sooner than later.  I drove the CS on Saturday morning and the Pierburg quit.  I suppose the pump was hammering away against the regulator and something gave up.  Left me on the side of the road while I replumbed/rewired the electric pump back into action ( I hadn't completely removed the electric pump from the car)  Somewhat easy repair and fortunately the cold front had not yet arrived.

 

At this point I'm fine tuning the Solexes.  I have some lean-pop, just off-idle.  Mixture screws are 1 1/2 turns out with 52.5 Pilot jets, which should be perfect, by the book.  I had some 57.5 pilot jets and that gives me best idle with mix screws 3/4 turn out...indicating the jets are a bit too rich.  Lean pop was still, slightly there... I'll run it for a while and see what happens.  This is all with the airbox off the car.  I'm suspecting to have some choking effect with the air box and filters in place... we'll see.  

 

I'd road test it more, but I am also chasing an issue with the clutch hydraulics... pedal will occasionally stay on the floor and not re-engage.  Not good.  No leaks in the system, so I'm hoping it is as simple as replacing the old rubber clutch line (thinking it's swelled shut).

 

Ed