Heater box replacement bushing/grommets

[Driv3r]

Where did you buy yours from? I'm after the 6 piece bushing or grommets for heater box repair. The ones I found are little small and turn inside the plate. I'm worried they eventually get cut by the sharp edge of the metal plate. Any help would be appreciated.

[2002#3]

 

I think I understand your issue.  I could not find nylon or other sold grommets like the ones I believe you are seeking.  However, I found standard rubber grommets that seemed to have worked.  I greased them well and hope they don't get cut in the manner you mentioned.  I found mine at Ace Hardware and, with a little fiddling, got them to fit snugly -- tight in place and open sufficiently to allow the flap rod to rotate smoothly.  In the attached photo on the workbench you can see the extra grommets I did not use (next to the needle nose pliers; two sizes; I used the smaller ones).  You probably cannot see the ones I installed in place.  

 

The Bowden cable which controls the hot water valve was made from an Ace Hardware lawnmower throttle cable.  I worked OK, but later I replaced it with an OEM replacement which worked much better.  Hints:  While you are in there (1) replace the 3-resistor heater motor speed component [not expensive], (2) get a pro to boil the heater box radiator [not expensive], (3) replace the foam on the flaps [not expensive], (4) be prepared to install and remove the heater box about 5 time until you get it right...

 

Regards,

 

Larry Gray

Cincinnati

 

[Driv3r]

 

I think I understand your issue.  I could not find nylon or other sold grommets like the ones I believe you are seeking.  However, I found standard rubber grommets that seemed to have worked.  I greased them well and hope they don't get cut in the manner you mentioned.  I found mine at Ace Hardware and, with a little fiddling, got them to fit snugly -- tight in place and open sufficiently to allow the flap rod to rotate smoothly.  In the attached photo on the workbench you can see the extra grommets I did not use (next to the needle nose pliers; two sizes; I used the smaller ones).  You probably cannot see the ones I installed in place.  

 

The Bowden cable which controls the hot water valve was made from an Ace Hardware lawnmower throttle cable.  I worked OK, but later I replaced it with an OEM replacement which worked much better.  Hints:  While you are in there (1) replace the 3-resistor heater motor speed component [not expensive], (2) get a pro to boil the heater box radiator [not expensive], (3) replace the foam on the flaps [not expensive], (4) be prepared to install and remove the heater box about 5 time until you get it right...

 

Regards,

 

Larry Gray

Cincinnati

 

Thanks Larry. I wasn't going to replace the resistor. After cleaning, it looked solid. But I will replace it if I can find one. Tried searching but nothing close. Where did you buy it from?

I've just bought a Bosch OEM assembly rubber grease and applied a tiny bit to the internal of the grommets and it seems that the control rod is now moving freely.

Also did you paint any internal moving parts? Such as the protecting clear coat. I was told it's ok to spray protective coat but I'm worried if the paint flake off and block the core or cause issues with fan/motor assembly.

Cheers

[Russell74Fjord]

BENCH TEST ! Prior to installing too, (don't ask me how I know!!).

[xr4tic]

22 hours ago, 2002#2 said:

The Bowden cable which controls the hot water valve was made from an Ace Hardware lawnmower throttle cable.  I worked OK, but later I replaced it with an OEM replacement which worked much better.  Hints:  While you are in there (1) replace the 3-resistor heater motor speed component [not expensive], (2) get a pro to boil the heater box radiator [not expensive], (3) replace the foam on the flaps [not expensive], (4) be prepared to install and remove the heater box about 5 time until you get it right...

 

Regards,

 

Larry Gray

Cincinnati

 

Where did you get the foam for the flaps?  Mine is completely deteriorated.

 

[harold]

Here is a previous discussion of the grommets/bushings, with dimensions and sourcing. 

 

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/179837-heater-box-rebuild-question/#comment-1105568

[2002#3]

Resistor Block:  Dorman Products (www.DormanProducts.com), "Blower Motor Resistor Kit", part #973-430.

Check Ebay and Amazon.

 

Foam:  I used 1/2'', closed cell, adhesive back foam from Ace Hardware.  I had to cut small pieces and place them in strategic places throughout the box, especially on the small vent flats, in order to get a good (or at least respectable) seal.

[xr4tic]

2 hours ago, 2002#2 said:

Resistor Block:  Dorman Products (www.DormanProducts.com), "Blower Motor Resistor Kit", part #973-430.

Check Ebay and Amazon.

 

Foam:  I used 1/2'', closed cell, adhesive back foam from Ace Hardware.  I had to cut small pieces and place them in strategic places throughout the box, especially on the small vent flats, in order to get a good (or at least respectable) seal.

 

Did you just use strips around the edges or an actual flat piece cut to the shape of the flaps?

[Driv3r]

3 hours ago, harold said:

Here is a previous discussion of the grommets/bushings, with dimensions and sourcing. 

 

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/179837-heater-box-rebuild-question/#comment-1105568

 

Thanks Harold. I will be ordering from McMaster-Carr. Although I noticed the grommets you bought and recommended have maximum heat rating of only 175° F (79.5° C). I believe this would eventually destroy the grommets specially if their working environment is constantly at maximum resistance. I will search McMaster for a better candidate and let you know.

[Driv3r]

3 hours ago, 2002#2 said:

Resistor Block:  Dorman Products (www.DormanProducts.com), "Blower Motor Resistor Kit", part #973-430.

 

Thanks Larry,

 

I noticed this is not for BMW, how do you find the fan speed/comfort with BMW motor fitted with this GM resistor?

 

2 hours ago, xr4tic said:

Did you just use strips around the edges or an actual flat piece cut to the shape of the flaps?

 

I also wonder. In the article by hegedus in section (f.), he says "Each flap needs a soft seal around the edges to close off air flow at the opening covered by the flap". I guess it also depends on everyone's own preference.

[2002#3]

973-430 is an exact replacement and works perfectly.  Check these sites:  http://www.overstocksport.top/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=6857 and http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nkw=HVAC+Blower+Motor+Resistor+Kit+Dorman+973+430&_itemId=301949418550&_trksid=p2047675.m4096.  No, they do not state "For BMW".  You might have to trim the pointed edges, split the grey plug unit, and omit a wire.  But it does work well.  Good luck.

 

Foam has to be applied on the flat surface and right up to the edges of each flap b/c the flaps do not seal very well with metal against plastic. 

[billjecks]

can someone please share the part number for the water valve cable?

 

thanks

Bill

2002tii

vancouver

[halboyles]

The dual cable that controls the heater valve and the warm air flap seems to be NLA :61 11 1 351 484

The fresh air cable is also NLA:  61 11 1 351 483

Some sources still have the defroster cable:  61 11 1 352 124

 

You can bend the defroster cable to make it work for the fresh air flap.

 

I haven't found an easy replacement for the heater valve/warm air twin cables.

[Driv3r]

can someone please share the part number for the water valve cable?

 

thanks

Bill

2002tii

vancouver

Here:

https://blunttech.com/products/3845366

[xr4tic]

The P/N for the cable that controls the water valve and air flap is 64111351484

 

I contacted Blunt about it, and they said it was on Backorder status, which means BMW should be producing more, but it may be a while.

 

Rogerstii had one in stock, so I purchased from them (at twice the price) - http://www.rogerstii.com/bmw-2002-bowden-cable-for-heater-temperature-setting/

 

They might have more.

 

Mine broke where it connected to the heater valve.  If I couldn't find another one, then I was going to try soldering an extension to my existing one.