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About Russell74Fjord

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  1. that's my head in the first picture ! (after suffering a cylinder head gasket failure, the gasket showing was the improvement, an M-3 head gasket if I recall correctly, requiing a slight modification to insure it did not spew oil everywhere). I thought I recall Jim saying hotter, perhaps I mixed up which cylinders he thought were hotter vs cooler.
  2. a major rebuilder whose name includes the initials MM, says piston #3 runs hot, so it is built with a little more tolerance, (and forged pistons), and so mine also has some rattle, but when run hard and hot, seems to dissipate,, (or since everything else is louder I don't hear it !) isn't that was the radio is for, drown out the worrisome noises. drive it until it breaks, then fix it,, !
  3. sun visors, leave them off, who needs them,, floppy POS,
  4. For the paint build up into the clip holes I took a brand new still bit, sharp, and correct size (don't recall, try small size, work up) and only with my hands and fingers, gently spun the bit through the clip hole to remove the excess paint.
  5. charcoal alcantara inserts, true square perforated, and original BMW vinyl (World Upholstery, via my local shop). custom embroidery
  6. I've seen some attempts at this, basically they take some filler of some sort, like RTV sealant (black), squish it into the gap, place something over it that will not stick (?? plastic wrap,,,, thin ) and then apply a textured vinyl or something as close as the 'grain" of the dash over that to try and mimic the look and let it dry. Peel off the plastic wrap, and voila! a patch of sorts. The more sophisticated restorers have a better product than RTV sealer, some sort of heat gun product. Regardless, I don't hold out too much hope that it will be invisible, just an aesthetic improvement over current state.
  7. welcome to the "club" 1974 - non-tii, non-sunroof, black interior, Rota wheels, etc, etc, yes, search is the starting point for questions, many have been dealt with over the years,
  8. https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/zip/d/edmonds-bmw-2002-parts/6917292453.html
  9. I've installed and removed these, couple of times. to remove I've gotten behind it, door open and rear window out completely, (prep for painting car) and used a sharply cut piece of wood (clean right angle) and gently tapped it off the rain gutter along the lower edge to pop off the rain gutter. Two people makes this go better. And it at all possible do not bend it just work it off leaving it in its original shape as much as possible. It you do bend it, don't try and straighten it prior to re-installing. Just leave it as is. Like the others above, (and two people are best for this part too). I rotated the entire piece 180 degrees up, and rotate it back down over the curve at the top of the A pillar. Obviously carefully line it up, a couple of times - pre-fitting, without installing, so you have a perfect starting point, and then once the curve is attached, or clipped on, work each side back and down on. Start with the top edge over the rain gutter and use your hands to roll it over the gutter and clip on the lower edge of the gutter. If it does well, it is a snap, snap,. snap and you are done. Getting that curve installed first is best, I have found. I have see evidence that Hans at the factory had a tool that crimped it down, and he would use this three of fours spots along the gutter. There are indentations you can see on the inside of the gutter trim and on the underside. If you have bent it on removal, I've found that when you re-install is the best time to persuade it back into shape. Again, if you get that curve part installed, the rest should work its way on.
  10. I have 74 with stock suspension (ride height, stock springs), and front Zender air dam, never had an issue. Some modern cars have a lower clearance than a stock 02 with an air dam,, and I hear occasionally they have an issue, although the newest class ferry they did modify the upper ramp to lessen or eliminate this.
  11. just made my old original A/C bracket obsolete (1974), now destined to become a boat anchor. available locally (Seattle),, for a six pack of Weinard's,
  12. if I am around, I'll be there, (wherever it is). Also could likely meet at Groit's - Tacoma at least once,
  13. I use some lacquer thinner (reducer), carefully, and slowly, and was able to remove the wood look off mine. A mild thinner, and patience, I think you can remove all that painted on, applied on , silk screened on ? wood look, and just have black
  14. what ever you choose to do, seam seal the inside, lower seam edges so years from now you do not have rust bubbles at that lower seam. Like other areas where the sheet metal is just bent over and creased, without any sort of rust prevention, any water that seeps in between that fold is eventually rusts through. These shots are that inside lower door edge. I'm in Seattle too, and have the applicator for the twin tube seam sealer 3M makes. If you are up for some work on your own, let me know. This stuff mixes as you apply it, hardens up quickly. It is supposed to seep into those areas, then seal shut.
  15. 02-02-02 , 17 years ago,, time flys. I am planning on being there.

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