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About Russell74Fjord

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  1. I've installed and removed these, couple of times. to remove I've gotten behind it, door open and rear window out completely, (prep for painting car) and used a sharply cut piece of wood (clean right angle) and gently tapped it off the rain gutter along the lower edge to pop off the rain gutter. Two people makes this go better. And it at all possible do not bend it just work it off leaving it in its original shape as much as possible. It you do bend it, don't try and straighten it prior to re-installing. Just leave it as is. Like the others above, (and two people are best for this part too). I rotated the entire piece 180 degrees up, and rotate it back down over the curve at the top of the A pillar. Obviously carefully line it up, a couple of times - pre-fitting, without installing, so you have a perfect starting point, and then once the curve is attached, or clipped on, work each side back and down on. Start with the top edge over the rain gutter and use your hands to roll it over the gutter and clip on the lower edge of the gutter. If it does well, it is a snap, snap,. snap and you are done. Getting that curve installed first is best, I have found. I have see evidence that Hans at the factory had a tool that crimped it down, and he would use this three of fours spots along the gutter. There are indentations you can see on the inside of the gutter trim and on the underside. If you have bent it on removal, I've found that when you re-install is the best time to persuade it back into shape. Again, if you get that curve part installed, the rest should work its way on.
  2. I have 74 with stock suspension (ride height, stock springs), and front Zender air dam, never had an issue. Some modern cars have a lower clearance than a stock 02 with an air dam,, and I hear occasionally they have an issue, although the newest class ferry they did modify the upper ramp to lessen or eliminate this.
  3. nice day today for taking out the car, a large turnout at XXX
  4. I thought I read the new bodies where going to be made out of aluminum and carbon fiber,,
  5. no glue !!, and if you are like me, and I tried and tried to get everything correct with the windows, and such prior to adding the covering, and the door panels,,, inevitably you have to get back in there, so pulling down the covering it required, you don't want glue holding it on. I purchased the real stuff to replace it, vs. a shower curtain or other comprise others have done. The adhesive is fine on that stuff, and then the door panels and clips also hold it in place,,, no glue !
  6. fuel, spark, are suspects, so confirm each. Fuel filters clog, there are multiple areas to check , the easiest it the fuel filter visible near the carb, but there is also a screen, filter (usually) just inside the fuel inlet at the carb, and there is a screen at the bottom of the fuel sender, and some manual fuel pumps have a removable screen inside them too, that can be removed, cleaned. ignition, yeah all the usual, points, gap, cap, rotor, and condenser. A failing condenser really can mess up the running of the car.
  7. SORRY I got caught up in a purchase of seats for my coupe. Do  you still have the zender?      zak20022@gmail.com   

  8. pull that rear bumper out, ,,, those squished bellows don't look good,,,
  9. I did that, I ordered new rockers, re-used the old seals. I think their main purpose of the seals is to limit the amount of gunk throw up from getting past that point and above, either below the door, or onto the car.
  10. to remove any waist level trim, un-bolt the t-bolts on either end, or sometimes only one end, (review the parts manual), little tiny nuts on little tiny bolts. and if rusted, a mess to deal with. But those really have to be undone first. You might be able to loosen them , and then slide the trim to the opening where the t-bolts slide in, but ideally, undo them completely. Then, notice that there are holes all along the inside edge (trunk and hood), with plastic dowels, or pins, and at each of those, using a judicious amount of force, gently get under the trim on the outside (with a plastic credit card or something that will not harm the paint), between the trim and the paint, and POP, off the trim from the plastic clip. And if needed, review what the plastic clips look like, beforehand, so you know what you are dealing with. You should not have to damage the trim to remove it. The quarter panel trim requires removing the back seat side panel, to access the t-bolt nut. The door has the t-bolt nut right near the door handle. The hood has multiple t-bolts, back, and front, at each corner of the trim, happy motoring, !!, vroom, vroom,
  11. if you are spending that sort of $$$, and you want to change the color, you should go all in, remove engine, basically everything, and remove all color from the exterior, at least, so little paint chips in the future (its going to happen unfortunately, less the car never leaves the garage), the old color doesn't show through. Little specks of blues showing through an orange paint job,, no. Blue trunk and engine bay with orange car, no. I've done two color changes, both Malaga to Fjord, and the second one, I took the car down to factory primer, and in spots bare metal on the outside, and very pleased that I choose to do so. The trunk, door jams, engine bay were all shot along with the car, (did not take all the color off those "interior" parts). Even then, there are traces of the old color that are present through the engine bay, that I can find, most folks don't see them. If you take the lower trim off, don't lose the crease line below, and along the front fender and rear quarter, But I'd leave the trim on, (I'm more of a purist).
  12. yes, quite an accomplishment, you have me beat by at least 18 years, and I did not pick up my car new either. We met years ago at St Louis, Tech event , don't recall the exact name of that event, but you, Jim Rowe, others discussing engines to rust (Mike's topic), among other topics. I will though offer up this, I have only owned 5 cars in my 42 years of driving, none newer than the one I owe today, a 1974 BMW 2002. And the only car I presently own - so a daily driver ! my years driving to cars owned ratio = 8.4 ! my years of driving BMW 2002s (exclusively) 30/2 = 15 years on average.
  13. yeah, it could be tricky, perhaps some heat applied very lightly, and some paint remover that does not harm the rubber. Or paint it flat black, and use whatever the flex agent is that they use on the flexible , plastic bumpers the newer cars have to avoid the cracking.
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