harold

Solex
  • Content count

    177
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Community Reputation

41 Excellent

1 Follower

About harold

Profile Information

  • Gender Not Telling
  • Location Austin, TX

Recent Profile Visitors

1,180 profile views
  1. I had one that looked like yours, and one only slightly better. I made a wooden buck in two halves, positive and negative to form the curvature. I soaked the new piece of 1/8" masonite in hot water for a day and clamped it in the buck and let it dry for another day or two. Then I cut the final outer shape. I couldn't find a picture of my buck, just the finished part. If you are really interested, I can get it out of my burn pile and take a picture. If you can find a good used one, it will be a lot easier.
  2. I put new euro taillights on my car from W&N. The general color scheme is the same. But my originals are so faded, it is impossible to compare actual shade. I doubt that they are different. Funny story -- Around 2006 I was on assignment to France, and another employee that came over from the US brought a US version VW Beetle (the modern one). He was in the process of getting it registered in France, and he had to change the taillights because the regulatory markings were not the Euro version (among other things).
  3. harold

    square tail light lens seals

    Try McMaster-Carr. For example, search for specifically: Light Duty Weather-Resistant Santoprene Foam Cords or just foam cord. There are a bunch, cheap, and various diameters. Color, though is black for most of them. Color: Black Temperature Range: -50° to 275° F Cell Type: Closed For Use Outdoors: Yes Density: 15 lbs./cu. ft. Pressure to Compress 25%: 4 psi (Ultra Soft)
  4. And the US versions have SAE markings (Society of Automotive Engineers), a standards organizaation. Probably required by US law.
  5. When I bought my first 2002 (in 1978), it was chamonix with a black vinyl top. I bought the car from the original owner, then in Colorado (the state, not color). He had purchased it new in California. The sales receipt was in the glove box. The vinyl top was a dealer installed "feature." It was already rusting under the vinyl. When I had it removed, it was clear the rust had started from all the little circular swirls you get from running an orbital sander over the paint. That was the time when it seemed like all American cars had vinyl tops, and I guess the dealer thought this was a swell sales idea. I have never seen another 2002 with a vinyl top, before or since. I had hoped that would be never. Ouch, my eyes. Harold
  6. harold

    Where to by 10mm 1.0 castle nut

    I did the same thing, brand new part and the castle nut stripped. I bought replacements from Belmetric. Always a nice source for metric autofasteners.
  7. The standard cures for a flooded car are: 1. Hold gas pedal to the floor while cranking. This holds the chokes at least partway open, and the wide open throttle (counterintuitively) allows very little gasoline to enter the air stream, since velocity is so low while cranking. 2. If no success with that, take off the air cleaner, have a helper hold the choke wide open, and again crank with the gas pedal all the way down. Harold.
  8. I media blasted them, and then they were repainted with everything else. I used mostly paint stripper in my engine compartment, but corners, and all the stuff like this was handled by localized media blasting. I had a simple gravity fed suction blaster, and used fine Black Diamond media (from Tractor Supply locally).
  9. harold

    R Suspension "Pin" - Removal

    Yes, a straight knurl just like wheel studs. In fact they look like a very large wheel stud. The head is round, flat on top and slightly larger than the stud.
  10. harold

    R Suspension "Pin" - Removal

    Why do you want to remove it? Assuming you have a good reason, it is a knurled pin, and just comes out with enough force. Put a sacrificial nut on it so that you don't hurt the threads. Hit it with a sledge.
  11. harold

    Loose Inner Panels

    Actually, I've seen two 74's without those panels. One whose quarter was sacrificed to replace mine (a 76). I peeled off the panel from my former quarter and glued it on the replacement. I used polyurethane construction adhesive. But I agree with the suggestions of a 2-part adhesive for this application. It took a long time for the adhesive that I used, to cure.
  12. Go to Belmetric, search "copper", and you'll see lots of copper nuts.
  13. harold

    4-post lift recommendations

    I have both a Bendpak and a Danmar. The Bendpak is of course more expensive. But, it has a 240V motor, and requires an air supply to release the locks. The Danmar has a 120V motor and manual lever actuated lock releases. The Bendpak is signicantly faster in raising the car, due to the higher HP motor. It also has vertically adjustable ladder stops for the latch points. So if you have a very tight clearance issue, like a 10' ceiling, you can make sure your latch point is exactly where you need it to be. The Danmar has fixed stops. For my purposes, the Danmar, used as a storage lift, works fine, and the price is significantly lower. I have both in 12' ceiling areas, so clearance is not a problem. Instructions for assembly were equally poor for each lift. Both were a major pain to assemble, and I couldn't have done it without the help of my forklift forks on my tractor. One caveat: the Danmar has a 12' long shaft that operates the latch release. I found out after I nearly completely assembled the lift that I couldn't install it because it had to go in from the end I had facing the garage back wall. So I cut off the lever, put it in place and then welded the lever back on. Yes, the instructions did say 12' clearance was required at one end, but I could not understand why that would be required. Stupid design, really. H
  14. Check McMaster.com or Belmetric for studs. M8 is the thread, Measure your length.