• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

41 Excellent

1 Follower

About harold

Profile Information

  • Gender Not Telling
  • Location Austin, TX

Recent Profile Visitors

1,329 profile views
  1. Reviewing my notes, I started at 135 mains, 180 air, then dropped down to 130/180, then my current 130/190. I'll have to try the next step down to 125 main and 180 air. Here is my advance curve. I've got the increased advance below 1000 (my warm idle setpoint) to keep RPMs up when AC is on. I can't really say if it helps, but it does seem to keep it idling when cold. I need to try a "curve 2" and swap it in and out to say for sure. I started with a TI curve and added more advance at low rpm. 2002Scoob: you have a bunch more advance at low RPM than I do, plus what is added for manifold vacuum. If you are pulling manifold vac from after the carbs, it may be adding advance when you don't want it. Typical vacuum source (which DCOEs don't have) is picked off right at the throttle plate, so that it drops to zero very soon after throttle opens. This is great info exchange. I should do some more trials with advance curve changes.
  2. Yes, that's certainly what I will try next. It's funny, I looked over my notes before my previous reply, and that jumped out at me as an obvious thing to try. I guess that's a good reason to document what you are doing. Nope, cam timing is factory. I think my WOT is too rich at 11-12, but I am not sure how to lean that out without affecting cruise mixture. I agree one wants to be rich at WOT, but not that rich. Any your idle AFR seems to agree with what I need to adjust next. I have not found a lot of good info online or in books on best AFR to target in the various regimes for DCOEs. All the books were written before the availability of WBO2 sensors, and relied on seat of the pants / dyno or tailpipe CO measurements. The most detail I found was in reference to air-cooled Porsches. They of course are afraid of going anywhere near stoichiometric due to heat, especially for racing. I appreciate the discussion and any advice. H
  3. Do you mind sharing what your current jet setup is? And some of what you are getting on your WBO2 sensor? Not to derail the topic totally, but I have a fresh engine that is built very much like yours: 9.5:1 Tii pistons, E12 head, 292 Schrick cam, headers, USB programmable 123 distributor. I put a WB02 in a few months ago and switched from the "out of the box" 30mm main venturis to 32mm. I also tried 34s and while I didn't get them totally tuned in, I felt I lost a bunch at the low end. My current jetting: 32mm venturis, 130 main, 190 air corrector, F16 emulsion tube, 45F9 idle, 040 pump jet. 175 needle valve, 45 aux venturi. Fuel level - 25mm below machined surface. I am seeing 13.8 to 14.2 AFR at constant speed cruise - 70MPH, 3500ish RPM; 11-12 AFR at WOT, 13.1 AFR at idle. I had pretty good transition from part throttle to full. I leaned out idle to about 14.5 using the mixture screws, and now my part throttle to full throttle transition is now a bit wonky. So I have more experimentation to do. I disagree with the statement that DCOEs don't respond well to quick throttle openings. Out of the box I was amazed at the instant throttle response. I compare that to my Spica mechanically injected Alfa - it runs well across the board, but response to throttle blip is nothing like the instant Weber response. That is what the accelerator pump is for - to provide instant enrichment before the airflow catches up and the normal circuits take over. Also - what is your 123 curve? Mainly what your max advance is at high RPM? Mine is constant past 3.5K, and after a couple days of road testing and timing on a fixed course, I settled on 34 degrees of max advance. I tested using the 123 timing function from 3.5K to 5K RPM in third gear acceleration. Below 32 degrees and above 36 degrees my times dropped off. H
  4. harold

    Where to get MC blue hose

    Belmetric.com has the blue hose. Continental is the manufacturer.
  5. I have gotten replacement cover tubing from a place called British Wiring (www.britishwiring.com). Also a good source for wire and crimp style connectors.
  6. I had one that looked like yours, and one only slightly better. I made a wooden buck in two halves, positive and negative to form the curvature. I soaked the new piece of 1/8" masonite in hot water for a day and clamped it in the buck and let it dry for another day or two. Then I cut the final outer shape. I couldn't find a picture of my buck, just the finished part. If you are really interested, I can get it out of my burn pile and take a picture. If you can find a good used one, it will be a lot easier.
  7. I put new euro taillights on my car from W&N. The general color scheme is the same. But my originals are so faded, it is impossible to compare actual shade. I doubt that they are different. Funny story -- Around 2006 I was on assignment to France, and another employee that came over from the US brought a US version VW Beetle (the modern one). He was in the process of getting it registered in France, and he had to change the taillights because the regulatory markings were not the Euro version (among other things).
  8. harold

    square tail light lens seals

    Try McMaster-Carr. For example, search for specifically: Light Duty Weather-Resistant Santoprene Foam Cords or just foam cord. There are a bunch, cheap, and various diameters. Color, though is black for most of them. Color: Black Temperature Range: -50° to 275° F Cell Type: Closed For Use Outdoors: Yes Density: 15 lbs./cu. ft. Pressure to Compress 25%: 4 psi (Ultra Soft)
  9. And the US versions have SAE markings (Society of Automotive Engineers), a standards organizaation. Probably required by US law.
  10. When I bought my first 2002 (in 1978), it was chamonix with a black vinyl top. I bought the car from the original owner, then in Colorado (the state, not color). He had purchased it new in California. The sales receipt was in the glove box. The vinyl top was a dealer installed "feature." It was already rusting under the vinyl. When I had it removed, it was clear the rust had started from all the little circular swirls you get from running an orbital sander over the paint. That was the time when it seemed like all American cars had vinyl tops, and I guess the dealer thought this was a swell sales idea. I have never seen another 2002 with a vinyl top, before or since. I had hoped that would be never. Ouch, my eyes. Harold
  11. harold

    Where to by 10mm 1.0 castle nut

    I did the same thing, brand new part and the castle nut stripped. I bought replacements from Belmetric. Always a nice source for metric autofasteners.
  12. The standard cures for a flooded car are: 1. Hold gas pedal to the floor while cranking. This holds the chokes at least partway open, and the wide open throttle (counterintuitively) allows very little gasoline to enter the air stream, since velocity is so low while cranking. 2. If no success with that, take off the air cleaner, have a helper hold the choke wide open, and again crank with the gas pedal all the way down. Harold.
  13. I media blasted them, and then they were repainted with everything else. I used mostly paint stripper in my engine compartment, but corners, and all the stuff like this was handled by localized media blasting. I had a simple gravity fed suction blaster, and used fine Black Diamond media (from Tractor Supply locally).
  14. harold

    R Suspension "Pin" - Removal

    Yes, a straight knurl just like wheel studs. In fact they look like a very large wheel stud. The head is round, flat on top and slightly larger than the stud.
  15. harold

    R Suspension "Pin" - Removal

    Why do you want to remove it? Assuming you have a good reason, it is a knurled pin, and just comes out with enough force. Put a sacrificial nut on it so that you don't hurt the threads. Hit it with a sledge.