engine and drivetrain With age comes wisdom.

[moose]

and at 20 years old i have none of it! Hello guys, my name is Andrew and im new to the 2002 forum and world. For the past year ive been looking/dreaming into buying a 2002. This is my third purchase, as ive owned an e60 for a year and a half and an e21 since october. some of you may know me from the bimmerforums e21 section.. So anyways, thought id give you guys a little hello instead of being a stranger. I finally completed my mission into buying a 2002 3 weeks ago. With irrational and dumb decisions hence the subject name, im here for some help. After test driving thie 2002 at 9pm at night, all seemed well right? After handing over the cash and receiving the title all the nonsense began. I named her lucipher, after my horrid stepmom luci, and someone else. Well after restarting the car the idle was crap and the guy refused to give me back the money. So after a stressful drive home and noting every single thing wrong about the car instead of enjoying the drive home. to getting home at 5 am to waking up at 9 to drive to my mechanics to have the key break on me i sit here with these issues.

 

Car runs AWESOME when cold, and drives well. but after stopping it and turning it off, once you turn it back on within 3 hours (warm engine) its idle bounces between 2-500 and wants to die. I had the same issue with my e21, but it was the warm up regulator. Does anyone know what this can be? Carb related im assuming?

 

Ill post the other issues later, as im running out of time. Thanks for reading and all the help or advice.

 

andrew

[Mike Self]

First of all, welcome to the 02 fraternity/sorority--lotsa knowledgeable folks on the FAQ who are happy to share their (often hard-won) knowledge with you.

 

From our admittedly brief description, it sounds like your choke isn't turning itself off once the engine is warm.  First of all, what kind of carb:  1 bbl Solex, 2 bbl Solex or 2 bbl Weber?  the 1 bbl Solex and one variety of Weber have manual chokes; the 2 bbl Solex and some Webers have automatic chokes.  Regardless, if the choke remains on or partially so once the engine is warm, it'll be hard to start and idle like crap.  

You're a young guy and probably aren't used to manual chokes.  If you have a manual choke carb, there will be a knob at the base of the steering column opposite the ignition switch.  Make sure it's pushed all the way in, and then look down the carb throat.  The choke plate should be fully open and vertical.  If it's not, ou'll need to adjust the choke cable/linkage so that it is when the choke knob is pushed all the way in.  

 

If there's no knob, it's an automatic choke, but the same rule applies:  when the engine is warmed up, the choke plate should be vertical.  If it's not you 'll need to do some work on the choke.  Check archives on adjusting automatic chokes, as the procedure varies depending on the make of carb and the type of automatic choke (hot water or electric).

 

Post some additional information on your carb type and we can better help you.

 

cheers--and welcome

 

mike

Edited February 4, 2016 by mike

[moose]

wow, i cant believe i forgot to mention the carb let alone the year. weber carb, 1976 2002. Should be automatic choke correct? I know the idea of carbs/choke, i used to work on atvs/dunebuggies a lot for a company i worked for. I dont have the extensive knowedlege, but i do have some education upon them.

[winstontj]

Welcome!

Relax and enjoy your purchase. These cars are easy. Regardless of whether or not it runs well --is there any rust on it? 

 

Go to the store and buy yourself a good set of metric wrenches (box wrenches and sockets). If you can't fix it in your driveway how are you going to fix it on the side of the road? Focus on the big things first: safety, reliability, looks/performance (in that order). 

 

Do you have any photos of the car? I agree with Mike, sounds choke-ish... What carburetor is on the car? 

 

Welcome again! 

 

EDIT: Weber carb is too general --32/36... 38/38... ITB's? (Photo would help here)

Edited February 4, 2016 by winstontj

[Andersson]

Welcome Andrew,

 

Luci...Lucipher....lol.

 

You know that little thing parked outside will sometimes make you grow gray hair but in the end you´re gonna love it.

 

And nobody talk´s to me when I´m filling up my E39, it´s a different story with my 2002...

 

Oh...and a good manual is your second best friend in the beginning.

 

// A

['76mintgrün'02]

Welcome!

 

It is often helpful if you can upload some photos of what you are working on/asking about.  I just pulled this photo tutorial out of the menu at the top of the page, from the 'FAQ Use' section http://www.bmw2002faq.com/articles.html/_/faq-use/posting-pictures-with-photobucket-a-six-step-t-r160

 

There are threee choke options on Webers, manual, electric, or water.  The electric and water chokes are considered automatic, but need to be working correctly for that to be the case.

 

If you find that you are really eager to learn something, asking questions here can be awesome; but often not as fast as that magic little search window in the upper right corner of the page.  Typing a few keywords in will generally bring up a long list of past threads on similar topics.  Vary a word or two and the list of threads will change.

 

It often helps to reread what people have suggested above.  If there are things you don't quite understand, pick a few keywords out and put them in the search window.  

 

Mike mentioned how to tell if it is a manual choke, by looking for the knob to the left of the steering wheel.  

The choke activation happens on the passenger side of the carb.  If yours has a wire coming off, it will be electric.  Two hoses... water.  On the back side of the carb (you see from the driver's seat) there may be two arch shaped gears, which would indicate a 38-38 model, if not, it is most likely a 32-36.

 

The Haynes manual is a good book to own and the Restoration Guide by McCartney is highly suggested reading as well.  A lot of 2002 wisdom went into that book.

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0856962406/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=1855204517&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0W909HFABSM71WFTGDSR

 

http://www.amazon.com/BMW-02-Restoration-Guide-guides/dp/1855204517

Edited February 4, 2016 by '76Mintgrun'02

[roadhog0]

Sounds like normal Weber stuff to me. Does the bad running go away after about 2 minutes? If you have an electric choke, that's about how long it takes for the choke to pull itself off since after sitting 3 hours it's going to be on again. 

 

Don't forget, you're running a carbureted car now, your E60 and even E21 were fuel injected and handle cold starts much better. The carb stuff is typically grumpy when cold. 

 

But welcome to the party man! Here's to a lot of fun!

[Acid House]

I think you're over-estimating how fast you become wise.  For instance I'm 33 and I bought this '72 in much the same manner     

Edited February 4, 2016 by Acid House

[moose]

Hey guys, thanks for all the replies, sorry havnt responded in a week, as i finally got the key situation sorted out and now im driving it again. Throughout the drive i noticed theres a load pop noise after letting go of the throttle (flooring it to anything past 4000 and you hear it) somewhere from the back seat, underneath the car? Really only happens on the freeway in 4th gear. Also, if you slam on the brakes, or brake hard to come to a quick halt, the car dies instantly? Included in post i believe is a picture of my carb. I simply have no excuses besides i think its in the picture? LOL. I have yet to diagnose the choke, but pretty much as soon as its been drivin aroound for 5 or so minutes itll idle at and bounce between 800-1000 at a red light in neutral.If just started tho, it goes between 3-800 no matter if it was just turned off, on, has been running all day, etc. Last and final thing i can note before i await some advice, is When it first fires up it runs and idles at 1500.

[Stevenc22]

Andrew where are you located? I'm sure a local wouldn't mind giving the car a look over and their opinion

[Stevenc22]

Webers have a high idle switch which makes the car idle at 1500+rpm when you first start the car to warm the engine. When you press the gas pedal then the high idle switch deactivates.

[moose]

San Luis Obispo, California. The closest member i can find is in monterey, but thats on another forum board for me e21. I can always return the favor someway im sure if someone was to give me a hand. and Ok that makes sense, I just wanted to confirm the suspicion i felt i was having about that. 

[Stevenc22]

Check the choke (the top butterflies are supposed to be closed when cold, open when engine hot), reset the timing with a timing light, make sure the distributor doesn't have any play in the drive shaft, make sure no vacuum leaks. These things are all easy to do and take no time at all. Get your hands dirty and get to know your new car.

[ray_]

San Luis Obispo, California. The closest member i can find is in monterey, but thats on another forum board for me e21. I can always return the favor someway im sure if someone was to give me a hand. and Ok that makes sense, I just wanted to confirm the suspicion i felt i was having about that. 

Andrew, you have one the the premier 2002 gurus in your backyard.

 

Go visit Rob Torres.

 

http://2002haus.com/

 

Cheers,

[moose]

Andrew, you have one the the premier 2002 gurus in your backyard.

 

Go visit Rob Torres.

 

http://2002haus.com/

 

Cheers,

 

Ive have heard of him from my indy mechanic (Eric Wahl at Bavarian AutoHaus in Arroyo Grande) but it was for a part just one time, i was going to see if he had an ignition lock assembly but Eric provided me a brand new one for a cheap price. Thank you, ill check him out!

Edited February 12, 2016 by moose