engine and drivetrain Oil Pan Gasket Removal Revisited

[PaulTWinterton]

So I'm rethinking tii oil pan gasket replacement. Again.

From all the archives and input, it seems the quickest and easiest way to remove the oil pan is to drop the subframe 2 to 3 inches.

Please correct me if I'm wrong, missing something or disconnecting something unnecessarily.

With car on stands:

1. Support engine from above. Various methods but a chain/wood beam system is adequate.

2. Disconnect engine mounts. 4 bolts?

3. Disconnect 6 upper strut bolts.

With secondary support of subframe:

4. Disconnect subframe. 4 bolts?

5. Disconnect steering box coupling.

Using the subframe support jack:

6. Drop subframe 2 to 3 inches. Is this enough to clear oil pump sump? And do I have to worry about brake lines?

It seems easy enough, as all the engine connections are left intact. Much less to disconnect.

Thanks for reading and replying.

Cheers and Happy New Year!

[cda951]

I have the luxury of access to a lift, but I have been able to sneak my oil pan out by unbolting the engine mounts and using a pole jack to lift the engine. There is just enough room to get it out before the trans hits the tunnel.

Since you will likely be lying underneath the car, it might be wise to support the engine from above as shown, which will give you more room underneath. You can also loosen the subframe bolts (but leave them threaded in slightly) and pry down on the subframe. This may give you the last bit of clearance you need to clear the oil pump.

Use Gasket-cinch or Curil T or something to help keep the gasket in place while feeding the oil pan back in.

[PaulTWinterton]

cdi951,

How much EXTRA clearance between subframe and pan to clear oil pan? 1"? 2"? 3"?

I'm planning to support my engine and ONLY drop subframe. Seems like less hardware to dismantle.

[steve k.]

Guys, we have this article posted http://www.bmw2002faq.com/_/technical-articles/engine-and-drivetrain/how-to-change-the-m10-oil-pan-gasket-without-re-r38

 

If someone has followed this method, can you please add the images to it. If you tink things are not correct in the article, please, modify it.

 

Thanks,

steve k.

[Swiss 2002Tii]

As a follow-on to Paul's thread, I had access to lift, but this could also be done with the front up on floor jacks.  Sorry hands and mind were busy, forgot photos!

Support the engine from above

Remove interior trim on steering column

Remove the four M6 bolts at the base of the steering column at the pedal box and the two bolts holding it under the dash

Remove the clamping bolt at the spline union on the drive shaft and pull the steering column free of the spline union.

Support the front subframe

Remove the engine mount bolts (two on Passenger side, one on Driver's side on LHD)

Remove the six M8 bolts holding the subframe

Drop the subframe. The struts will support the weight, so the subframe can hang free and swung forth and back to easily remove the oil pan

 

Actually a lot easier and faster than it sounds.  Gives plenty of  clearance for the work.

 

Pay attention to get the steering column reassembled for no play on the shaft.

[kbmb02]

8 hours ago, Swiss 2002Tii said:

Remove the six M8 bolts holding the subframe

 

The six bolts holding the subframe the frame rails are M10 size, for future reference. -KB

[OldBlue2002]

OP- I am about to do this on my tii for the second time, and I really recommend what others have said, which is: get an engine hoist from harbor freight ($70), hook it to the open hole/tab next to the flywheel timing slot and firewall, loosen the engine mounts (now is a great time to replace them if needed) and then lift the engine with the hoist until you have the clearance to pull the pan out- it shouldn’t take much.

 

Scott

Edited June 21, 2020 by OldBlue2002

[PaulTWinterton]

Sorry, I must offer an alternate procedure.  Old dog, new tricks scenario.    Please don't make me try a different method!

 

Since I posted that original post, I've had my pan off a few times.  I can't imagine it could be any easier than the process below IMHO.  Plus I loath working under the dash. 

 

-Remove distributor cap  1 min

-Remove air cleaner 5 min

-Disconnect R & L motor mounts  10 min

-Disconnect throttle linkage 1 min

-Lift front of engine, only 3 inches. 20 min.  No need to disconnect radiator.  (Although in this picture rad is out for another reason)

 

Pan slides forward and out.   Pan bolts can be removed before or after the engine has been lifted.  I like to remove them while the engine is still secure.

 

Seems to me that this is the workshop manual procedure. 

[g_force]

I've used Paul's/the workshop manual's method a couple of times, and it's super easy especially if you have a truss like pictured.  I agree with Paul's time estimates, too. The only issue is re-installing the pan, I've not been able to get a torque wrench on a couple of the bolts.  The subframe was in the way.  I've since acquired a Tite-Reach extender that would probably solve this problem, but haven't had an occasion to try for this particular task.  

 

As an aside, it's rare that one needs a crutch like a Tite-Reach extender or the like to work on an '02.  Those guys designing our cars really put some thought into how everything would be accessed.  I'm impressed by the hand full of spots where it's tight, but there's just enough room to get a bit of a turn on an open end wrench, flip the wrench over, and get that same bit of a turn again.  And these guys designed this car on paper.  They were engineering studs!

[PaulTWinterton]

26 minutes ago, g_force said:

I've not been able to get a torque wrench on a couple of the bolts. 

 

You're a better man than I.  I've always used the "guddentite" method for pan bolts.  A 1/4" ratchet and extension is all I use with "wrist tight" torque.  I know it's not exact, but close to 8 ftlbs IMHO.

[g_force]

Dunno about better man.  But, my dad taught me that anything with a gasket should be torqued with a torque wrench.  It made sense, and I guess I've never tried it otherwise. 

 

It's funny those things we do, just because we do them.  

[Swiss 2002Tii]

16 hours ago, PaulTWinterton said:

-Lift front of engine, only 3 inches. 20 min.  No need to disconnect radiator.  (Although in this picture rad is out for another reason)

 

Sounds like a much simpler process Paul.  Did you also have to free up the tranny mounts to lift the motor?

[Swiss 2002Tii]

19 hours ago, PaulTWinterton said:

Since I posted that original post, I've had my pan off a few times.  I can't imagine it could be any easier than the process below IMHO.  Plus I loath working under the dash. 

Hah!  And with good reason! 

The mechanic who had the lift and helped with the process put my steering column back together, and accidentally pinched a wire from my directional switch in the process.  The whole job went like clockwork, but when I started the car to back it off of the lift, I pulled my light switch on and PFFFFT!  A big cloud of smoke from the dash around the light switch.  Crap! ?  Fortunately it just smoked one wire, and the switch and directional survived. ?

[PaulTWinterton]

8 hours ago, Swiss 2002Tii said:

Did you also have to free up the tranny mounts to lift the motor?

 

Nope. Not a lot of motion that far back.

 

Funny, it was one of the first things that I thought as well.  

 

Here's the story.  I have a buddy who was a tech at a BMW dealership back in the day.  You might know him as @stephers.  When I was faced with replacing my pan gasket he lent me his truss and told me the procedure they used at the dealership.  The simplest and quickest method to get the job done.

 

Good but frustrating story about the pinched wire.  

 

The problem mechanics have is that they must get the job done quickly to be efficient and make money for their business.  That's how they are trained.  Sometimes mistakes happen unfortunately.   Glad it was obvious.  Sometimes they are not obvious and we end up going down a rabbit hole looking for the new problem.