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OldBlue2002

Solex
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Everything posted by OldBlue2002

  1. One end of my shift selector rod sheared off (I guess I found the limit for spirited driving). If anyone has a spare rod of the shortened/74mm type lying around or knows of a manufacturer please let me know.
  2. I got a set from rogerstii.com. It’s good quality and reasonably priced.
  3. +1 for the JBR flywheel. The only hurdles I had when installing mine was that I needed to make timing marks myself and it needs to be BALANCED by a machine shop prior to installation. I believe they took off 30 grams or so in the process. Otherwise it’s been a great upgrade on an otherwise stock Tii. Scott
  4. 09 Gasket ring A14X18-CU 1 07119963201 $0.18 10 Screw plug AM14X1,5 1 07119919228 $0.85
  5. I have gone through many threads discussing ways the 02 wiper motors can stump their owners, however I think I may have found another variable for conversation. One fine day, I turned the key to ignition with a cold motor, and the wipers started operating. Gently mashing the on/off stalk switch did not interrupt the cycle at all. Once the engine started, the wipers responded to the switch, parked like normal, and would turn on/off normally thereafter. Following my first short stop that day (with a still warm motor) the wipers did not activate with the key turned to ignition and operated normally. Day 2- With a cold motor, the wipers started up again with power sent to ignition. Yet again, the uncommanded wiper action went away after the car had been driven around a bit. Has anyone seen this before? I know correlation doesn’t imply causation, but the grounds/contacts have been checked and the wiper motor hasn’t been tampered with otherwise. Scott
  6. Does the roughness go away when the engine is warm? I had similar symptoms prior to fixing the thermo-time switch wiring.
  7. The ‘stopper’ is a mounting point for one of the KF linkage springs. Is this for your daily driver? If not, I would just wait until you get the original back from the shop as the blasting shouldn’t take but a few days.
  8. Is the shifter rod installed backwards? I accidentally did that and it affected the range of motion
  9. Looking forward to the new site/layout! I put the idea forth once before, but could we please get a tii specific section? The differences seem to be trivial, but I feel there are enough distinctions to warrant a standalone forum. Scott
  10. I recently had the intake manifold and valve cover bead blasted, and put the throttle body as a complete unit through an ultrasonic bath. Finished up with some Gibbs corrosion prevention
  11. Perfect time of year to use as a daily driver
  12. If this is for a tii, an adjustment/calibration to the CO adjustment using the KF guide can help clean up the idle
  13. Might want to swap in a new brake check valve ($10). I chased the cause of my mushy brakes for about a week before discovering my valve was going bad.
  14. I’d have to check my notes, but when doing mine last month think it was just 73 ft/lbs with some 271 red locktite.
  15. Now I’m curious as to what condition mine is in. I bet it looks neglected. You can put me down for two.
  16. I may only be able to source this from custom built knobs (or IE) but I’m looking for a traditional style wooden shift knob that is a push on instead of threaded. Brighter wood colors are preferred (Walnut or Bubinga)
  17. I purchased the Sachs clutch kit, but had to get a 5 speed throw out bearing separately for my application. This 4spd bearing is brand new, only came out of the packaging for a picture. Shipping is included.
  18. I lowered the rear end down today and the shifter now has resistance again while in gear! Thanks everyone for expanding my knowledge. Hopefully someone else will come across this thread one day. I have to repair one of my rear camber bolts before I can drive again, but I did start the engine (New aluminum flywheel) for the first time in two months! Repaired a few things this time around, I cheated and drove about a foot forward and the whole clutch operation worked perfectly. The rear passenger trailing arm bolt and correctly tightening the axle nuts with my 250 ft/lb torque wrench (289?) are the only things standing between me and a nice Louisiana countryside drive!
  19. Thanks Toby for the clarification! “Whew” I hate to get concerned before I’ve even had a chance to start the car, but the transmission op check was too tempting.
  20. The rear end is up on jack stands, so hopefully that’s the cause of this. Maybe try shifting with my foot on the brake? I’ll report back after I lower it down. The gearbox was fully functional before removing it and I made sure to NOT put GL5 oil into it. I refreshed the shift linkage/platform to get everything nice and tight and everything appears to be OEM.
  21. Hello all— My FAQ/internet searches for this problem taught me a lot on heel-toe shifting, but did not answer my question. I just finished replacing my 5 speed clutch, and ran into a situation hat has me puzzled (more like worried)! My clutch pedal has pressure like it did before the installation (clutch slave line was untapped) and the shifter will go into all gears. However the transmission will come out of all gears with just a slight pressure on the shifter. It turns out I can change between all gears with minimal resistance without using the clutch pedal, just by shifting. When doing the driveshaft, the gears and neutral act like expected....locked when in gear, spins freely in neutral. I still need to put in the exhaust and oil change, so I haven’t driven it yet. Is this an anomaly for virgin clutches that haven’t engaged with the engine fully, or am I in trouble? That gearbox was a bear to get installed solo....I can’t even. I’ve been on the other side of this situation where shifting was difficult (bad slave) so I abandoned the idea of bleeding the system again. Parts installed were Sachs clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing, Pilot bearing, fork lever and spring (Slave was replaced a few months ago and master cylinder is a few yrs old. Thanks in advance, Scott
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