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Weber 32/36 Choke Shaft "bushings" ??


im3crazy

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Im rebuilding my 32/36 and discoverd that my choke shaft binds badly due to the shaft gouging the holes way out of round.  Bushings seem to be the way to go, but I've not found any references to this fix.  Any thoughts on correcting these??  Thanks.

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Dave in Baltim02e Maryland USA
1969 2002 Sahara  Manila  :)

1966 WM300 Dodge Power Wagon-Valley Green; 1972 Airstream Overlander; 1997 JDM Honda Prelude; 2007 GMC Sierra 1500 tow vehicle to tow home all the above junk!

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Many hardware stores sell bronze flange(d) bushings in a variety of sizes.  You might find one with the proper ID to fit the shaft and trim the length to suit your needs.  A smaller ID will be easy to drill out as well.  You could also trim off the extra OD, if needed, and then epoxy them in with JBweld.  Alignment will be a concern, so maybe let the glue set with them in the closed position.  I have had good luck modifying bronze bushings using a hand drill and a wooden dowel.  I put a slight taper on a dowel (slightly larger than the ID) and pushed it on snug, then spun it against a smooth surface to true it up, before "machining" it.  Let the extra epoxy spooge out and clean it up with a knife when it gets rubbery hard.  Make sure the surfaces are very clean and slightly scuffed prior to gluing.  Leave enough room to achieve alignment and let the epoxy fill the void.  Maybe "crazy", but that is what I would be tempted to try.  

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Great approach. I'm used to using the JB weld and think this would allow a "soft" fit up with the bushings & shaft in place to make sure it doesn't bind. Thanks.

Dave in Baltim02e Maryland USA
1969 2002 Sahara  Manila  :)

1966 WM300 Dodge Power Wagon-Valley Green; 1972 Airstream Overlander; 1997 JDM Honda Prelude; 2007 GMC Sierra 1500 tow vehicle to tow home all the above junk!

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I haven't mic'd them yet, but they don't appear worn anywhere near the carb body. As expected, the most shaft wear is on the lever side. The accelerator pump lever is also badly grooved where it contacts the main shaft cam lobe (which is also obviously worn).

Dave in Baltim02e Maryland USA
1969 2002 Sahara  Manila  :)

1966 WM300 Dodge Power Wagon-Valley Green; 1972 Airstream Overlander; 1997 JDM Honda Prelude; 2007 GMC Sierra 1500 tow vehicle to tow home all the above junk!

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Because it gets cold here I don't want to dump the whole setup.  I have a manual choke on my Power Wagon which is foolproof and thought of going to a manual choke setup.  Problem is that the butterflies bind because of the out-of-round holes.

Dave in Baltim02e Maryland USA
1969 2002 Sahara  Manila  :)

1966 WM300 Dodge Power Wagon-Valley Green; 1972 Airstream Overlander; 1997 JDM Honda Prelude; 2007 GMC Sierra 1500 tow vehicle to tow home all the above junk!

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Buy a new shaft, and find someone who really rebuilds carbs.  Around here, it's Autosport- Jonnie will redrill and bush them out.

 

Or buy another carb- it's a $300 option, and rebushing may run to half that.  Especially since your main shaft will probably be pretty oval too.

 

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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I could potentially do the work for you... re-drilling and making new bushings for carbs should be a piece of cake. I have a lathe and other equipment and can properly repair the holes by JB-welding them shut and re-drilling the holes so they are no longer slotted.

 

The reason you don't weld them is because welding warps the barrels and requires honing the barrels and other work afterward; really not worth the hassle. 

 

 

Post pictures of the whole assembly, including the shafts. PM me regarding having me do the work.

Edited by Rocan

1974 Grey European Market BMW 2002 

1976 Yellow BMW 2002 "GOLDENROD" SOLD

1972 Yellow Austin Mini 1000

A bunch of Bikes...

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