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Tii Alternator Bushings


schoir

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Does anyone have a list of all of the bushings needed to be replaced on a '73 tii engine?

 

My alternator is not completely secure and I have seen listings for rubber bushings, urethane bushings, and even a metal bushing sleeve but I'm not sure how many of these parts are needed to restore that adjustment mechanism to a proper working condition.

 

Regards, Maurice.

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here's a diagram which may help visualize ....

 Part 3 is a "shorty" bushing .... Part 6 is longer in length than Part 3.  Once you have it all apart it will make sense.

  http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=2583&mospid=47141&btnr=12_0152&hg=12&fg=22

 

 I use Ebay to see pictures of the parts I want ....  search on   " 1973 bmw 2002tii alternator  " 

 

 

Cheers,

 

Carl

Edited by OriginalOwner
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Thanks for all of the replies.  For future members who may want to "firm up" their alternators, here are the parts that I have just ordered from Pelican Parts:    (Shopped around and they had the best prices.)

 

11 72 1 261 404  Split bushing for Alternator Bracket and Air Pump Adjusting Bracket  (2 per car)

12 31 1 268 447  Alternator Bushing 20mm length (Red)  (2 per car)

12 31 1 268 449  Alternator Bushing   8mm length (Red)  (2 per car)

 

For the last two items, I ordered the urethane ones for longevity purposes.  Ireland Engineering also sells these urethane bushings in black, if you want to keep your car looking stock.

 

If you want the original rubber bushings, the part numbers are:

 

12 31 1 268 433  Alternator Bushing 20mm length (2 per car)

12 31 1 268 435  Alternator Bushing   8mm length (2 per car)

 

There was also a metal bushing available, but I'm not sure what that one is for so I didn't order it and will wait until I try the install to see if that is needed as well.  That part number is:

 

12 31 1 268 434  Bushing Sleeve for Alternator 25mm length

 

I'm not positive whether only one or two split bushings are needed (first item at top of post) as the part number also refers to the air pump bracket.  If the second one is only needed for the air pump bracket, I guess I'll have a spare split bushing for the alternator. :)

 

Once I receive the parts and install them, I will post an update so that there are no questions as to what is actually needed.

 

Thanks again for the guidance.

 

Regards, Maurice.

Edited by schoir
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  • 6 years later...

I know this is an old thread, but I am running into a problem with this issue. I'm trying to replace alternator bushing after noticing my alternator was very loose.

 

I bought the red Pelican parts bushing, but the exiting bushings-- both on the top mount and the bottom-- seem to be one piece, meaning they don't come out. Is it possible that they were cast somehow this way? I get crumbly resin-type stuff out and the end emerges, but the metal sleeve doesn't budge. After I took the bolt out of the top mount and tried to pry the sleeve/bushing out, I noticed that turning one end turns the other-- in other words, it seems like one big sleeve, not two bushings.

 

On the bottom mount, the situation is the same. What I thought was a washer won't come off. See photo.

 

Does that sound right? If so, what do I do? I haven't taken the alternator out, as that is supposedly a big pain. I had hoped to just swap out the bushings, but I can't even get to that point. I could take the plunge and find a way to get the alternator out, but then what? Cut off these sleeves? I feel like I need something like "string rubber" to wind around where the resin is crumbled and try to create some kind of rubber insulation. Or maybe that sprayed rubber gutter sealant?

 

Any ideas?

alternatorbottom.jpg

alternatortop.jpg

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You have to take the alternator out to replace the bushings.

 

It seems that, if i understand, "someone" replaced the bushings in the past.

 

You will have to probably use a punch to tap out the bolt in order to release the alternator from the bracket, due to rust. Either use a new sleeve or get rid of the rust inside and out.

 

I can't recall if you can remove the bracket with the alternator on it, but that would work well.

 

I would not recommend the red Pelican (cast) bushings as they tend to fracture / degrade quickly.

 

I recommend these, which are the 90 Shore hardness, not the crappy softer ones. Sometimes they are White (mythical in the aftermarket Bosch realm).

 

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=2291-EUR-07-1974-114-BMW-2002turbo&diagId=12_0152

 

they are stiffer than most replacements, but not so stiff like the Poly bushings afore mentioned.

 

Consider buying a ground socket head screw (bolt) and washers from McMaster as that will help with the tolerance difference of the sleeve(s) which cause the alternator to angle and not be true.

 

8mm x 120mm? IIRC.

 

did I answer the question?

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First of all, thank you so much for answering.

 

Second, I'm sorry my response is so late. I'm just seeing your response because I thought I would get an email to tell me if I got a response and did not get an email so didn't check until now.

 

I should have been clearer in my explanation of where I am in the process. The alternator is out of the bracket and held up with wire. The bolt holding it into the bracket is out. (I am holding the alternator in place via wire to the bracket.) I cannot get the sleeves-- if that's what they are-- out, and wonder if they even come out. When I turn one end, the other end turns, too, so it makes me think it's all one piece. I've included a couple more pictures that show both sides out as far as I have pried them.

 

I honestly don't know what to do now. Will those sleeves come out if I keep prying? How is it that both sides turn together with the mounting bolt out? It makes me think they are one piece. Do they even come out? The bolt on the bottom of the alternator-- pictured in my first message-- has a washer on it that does not move. As far as I can tell, it is a cast one piece bolt and washer, which is very strange.

 

I have not tried to remove the alternator from the car, though I have it out of the bracket, because it seems like there is not enough space underneath to get it out. I read on this website that some people have cut out the battery tray or taken off the stabilizer bar. I'm not prepared to do those things. But then I thought it would be very easy to just pop in new bushings...

 

I appreciate your advice. I'm almost ready to save up enough money to have the car towed to someone who can figure this out better than I can and pay them to do it.

alternator1.jpg

alternator2.jpg

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Cars and spacing vary — somewhat! Occasionally the tii alternators will come out without touching the front stabilizer bar, but there may be some twisting and turning of the alternator to discover the path out. Sometimes, just taking the two bolts out of the left bracket will provide sufficient space to slip it out. Given where you’re at now, “stuck in the middle,” taking out a couple of bracket bolts seems like a relative nothing. And removing the stabilizer bar, if the “single bracket solution” fails, is not a big project! Start soaking those bolts with Kroil now!
 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

 

Edited by Conserv

1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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Thank you all for your advice. I will try to get the alternator out, though I think it will be much easier to take the pulley off the alternator than to take out the stabilizer. I can't even figure out how to do that. That said, it also took me forever just to get one of the nuts off the alternator-- turns out it was 5/16, not 8mm, and it had never crossed my mind that it might be non-metric.

 

Conserv: What bracket are you talking about when you say, "two bolts out of the left bracket?"

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3 hours ago, Abusawyer said:

 

Conserv: What bracket are you talking about when you say, "two bolts out of the left bracket?"

 


The front stabilizer bar is held in place by 6 bolts: 1 at either end and 2 on each of the 2 brackets. You can try taking out just the bolts on the left bracket to see if it gives you enough play to remove the alternator.

 

The presence of SAE non-metric bolts on the alternator let’s you know that prior owners or mechanics have taken liberties with this poor thing,

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

2B1D75C5-0D48-4F82-A2B8-56365C564194.jpeg

1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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