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3D Printed Parts


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Cool idea with the Cabrio badge, but not sure why it has to be one integrated unit (thinking more the relationship between the example "1600 and touring" badges versus the "2002tii" badge). 2 separate parts make a lot of sense and give you some flexibility in placement. Your current design makes readibility a little tough, plus would your "2002 Cabrio" badge actually fit in the existing space? I'd also think about a font like "Boxer Script" from veer.com. Would require you to tweak the dot of the "i" (connect it so it's not floating) but feels more in keeping with other script BMW treatments. IMHO...

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Paul Huber

1972 2002 Baur Targa in Baikal & 1971 2002 Pickup in Silver/Surf

"The more you know, the less you need."

—Aboriginal Saying

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Hi Paul,

Really interesting thoughts - agree the combined 2002 and cabrio is slightly awkward and maybe to separate as with touring and turbo would be the way to go. And thanks for the heads up with Boxer script - never did find a font i was happy with - could be a good option.

There is just about enough space to accommodate the joined version i have at the mo' but you've given me food for thought!

I still like the slightly awkward, quirky joined version but i may use Boxer for ' cabrio' and see how that looks.

And may as well print a separate 'Cabrio' badge also based on your suggestion.

Keep you posted

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Noted. If you crack this "badge" nut, you could easily sell these, even in black.

 

Some of these have been suggested, but other parts I'd consider making are 1) the round trim pieces on top of the seatback where the headrests go in (now around $25 a pop if I have that right), and 2) the flat side pieces around the seatback release levers (I bought a set made of cast aluminum years ago that still look great). And 3) Blaupunkt radio tuning rings ($$$, the back rings not the rubberized knobs). Harder and harder to find.

 

Keep doing what you're doing... 


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Paul Huber

1972 2002 Baur Targa in Baikal & 1971 2002 Pickup in Silver/Surf

"The more you know, the less you need."

—Aboriginal Saying

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Checking my Blaupunkt radio (awaiting refitting) and coincidentally, it does have one of the tuning rings missing - i assume it needs one ring under both knobs?

 

So using the existing as a guide, modelled and printed a replacement.

1st draft - should be able to improve the surface finish.

 

I'll trial fit tonight to see if it works?

 

So many projects, so little time!

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

I just got with the class.  It was very good.  The takeaways:

 

There are lots of different technologies, but 3 are most relevant: Filament Deposition, Stereolithography, and Metal melting via laser.  All 3 are commercially available vis service bureaus and the one most often mentioned was Shapeways which can do all three.  I might try out Shapeways before buying even the low end systems.

 

The filament (FDM) technique uses a thermoplastic filament ("wire") that works like a hot glue gun.  These are the low cost systems that you see offered.  As low as $600 on Amazon.  The parts have a somewhat rough surface and there is tendency for the part to fail between layers of filaments. It would be good for low strength parts and pieces. Not super stiff plastic and I would never use the technique for anything at all structural.

 

The other major plastic technique is Stereolithography uses a laser to cure a plastic in a bath of resin.  The parts generally have better surface finishes and are the same strength in each direction.  The resin is a thermoset and is generally more brittle and clear because of the need for the laser to get to all the part.  The basic lowed system is about $3000 from Formlabs and does a good job but has a pretty limited build volume of 4" cube.  The resin is pretty expensive compared to bulk resin.  The plastic feel and quality is similar to the plastic used in lens and turn signals.  Stiff but brittle.

 

The last one of interest are the metal systems which can do a variety of materials including SS or CoCr and Ti.  These are all industrial tools that cost more than $1M. The parts can be reasonably large and can have very good mechanical properties.  It was noted that post deposition was critical for the good mechanical properties and it was not clear that the service bureaus could do the anneals.  As a point of reference one person built a 5 lb part and the cost was $1000. So it is an option for some structural parts but caution needs to be payed.

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Filament Deposition manufacturing is the only viable option at the moment for home desktop 3d printing. The other 2 are very interesting but cost and uptake will limit them from home consumer applications. And of course, the other big hurdle is the software skills needed to design and model objects in 3D - lots of free software out there to try but the learning curve is a big one.

Shapeways is okay for access to 3D printable objects but i prefer the various other 'open source' share libraries such as Thingiverse.com. These 'free' access, download and iterate platforms will really help the technology to grow and also give a global forum for home designers to show their projects. My few projects are growing nicely: http://www.thingiverse.com/francfalco/designs.

Bizarrely, i recently had an email from a NY based production company asking if they could use my 'Mini caballete easel' as a 3d printable example for a Japanese documentary! I've no idea what thats all about but i said 'go ahead', on the understanding i get a credit and a chance to see the finished film.

All good fun and also really empowering when used to solve those everyday little problems we all come across - like designing a 'targa' badge for my car!

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Funny, I just posted in the off topic section about 3D parts, and then I see this post.  I was in an aerospace/military machine shop last summer were some of my family works, and they were doing stress testing on some 3D printed metal valves needed in flight controls. So it's probably only a matter of time (and cost) until we can have almost any part remade.

Edited by brendang2000

'76 Inca, restored to a roundie

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We got a printer at work a while ago. I've tried couple of parts.

Spare trigger wheel for Megasquirt, Crane optical trigger. I know the material is probably not the best for that but I'm pretty sure it will take me home if original wheel falls in pieces. And casing for APSX AFR-display. Hidden installation in ash tray. 

 

  Tommy

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Racing is Life - everything before and after is just waiting!

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