Jump to content

brendang2000

Solex
  • Posts

    116
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by brendang2000

  1. Here they are on my megasquirt 2.0 M10 test engine.
  2. Hi all, Got a pair of BMW side draft manifolds for unknown carbs (came without carbs with a 914 my friend bought). The measurements between the carb mounting studs are 110mm & 70mm, and it's approximately 72-73mm between runner studs. $150 plus shipping, which would most likely be a USPS flat rate box, local pickup in Phoenix, paypal prefered if shipping. Brendan
  3. Hello all, I'm looking for the pump/sender that drops into our fuel tank. I just got back from all the good local yards and the one car that worked someone grabbed the pump/sender already. I have a new pump already, so really just need the sender, but would take both if you have them. Let me know what you were thinking about price. PM or email would be best. brendang2000@gmail Thanks, Brendan
  4. I can attest to this, my MSD has been driven by stock BMW points since I put it in years ago. Granted I bought a new set of points when installed though.
  5. Nice! I mounted a used 6AL I had laying around in my trunk because I didn't want to look at it (battery is in trunk too). It's been going 10k+ miles.
  6. LOl, no thanks on the nose, this took me a year and a half:) The trunk does open, no hinge and no trunk floor. Both doable, but moving on to other projects, like the M10 megasquirt engine sitting in my living room (soldered the board up 3/15 lol). It is a shame about those lights. What's even worse I had a new set I bought for my car years ago, then gave them away when I went with the bumper lights instead. It goes to show you, NEVER GET RID OF ANYTHING! lol
  7. Thanks y'all! It definitely does need some kind of plate. The donor car was a trashed ex-racer, every panel was mostly destroyed. That back panel needed minimal work though, otherwise I might not have done this. I’ve not seen that picture before, but have seen stuff like that. My friend has a Shelby Cobra ass-end as a seat, it’s rather large.
  8. Finally got my art project done and hung, still waiting for the license plate lights to become available again. I think it came out really well. Also thinking of making some of the lights work, but I don't have the reflectors so would need to make up some kind of divider or all the areas would light up. The air cleaner I had done for a while now, but finally took a picture.
  9. Hi all, I need to find a license plate light, part number 63 26 8 777 102 see picture. It doesn't matter the condition as long as the mounting holes are good. I need it to locate the holes in the back panel as it has been drilled many times. I'm in Phoenix, AZ and you can reach me @ brendang2000@gmail.com Thanks! Brendan
  10. Some of this stuff is listed in an old post, please disregard that post. I'm heading to SoCal the first week of May and can bring out any of the heavy items if you're in that area. Prices do not include shipping, but willing to work with you. Any questions, don't hesitate to ask. Call/text, email or PM, I take offers in chronological order. 623.521.6006 brendang2000@gmail.com Thanks E24 seats $250 SOLD vent tubes $20 SOLD Repa seat belts from a '76 $20 SOLD Window regulator left, the old looking one $30 SOLD Diff bracket w/stock bushings $25 Mahle charcoal canister w/bracket, used once to go through emissions:) Part number 16121108926 $75 NOS Bump steer spacers 1" $45 Powder coated steering arms (would need to remove coating from ball-joint & mounting area to use, ask before buying) $30 SOLD ash tray center section with green blockoff plug $20 SOLD seat-belt/ thermal reactor indicator $10 ball-joints $20 pair SOLD NOS BMW tranny mount $10 SOLD pedal box, no gas pedal $40 SOLD dark blue arm rests, no metal trim covers, right plastic mount broken $15 headlight buckets w/bulb trim rings, one side has been powder coated but missing hardware $30 pair left mirror, some pitting, new gasket & mounting bracket (both pictures are item) $25 SOLD E30 M10 oilpan and tranny cover (hot tanked, super clean) $100 strut rods $20 pair brake booster brackets, booster does not hold vacuum $25 SOLD half shafts/axles off a '70 $100 SOLD hubs $30 each or $50 for a pair newer but used control arm, some scraping on inboard side. $15 SOLD calipers $50 pair '70 trailing arms, $50 each SOLD '70 strut housing, $40 each SOLD painted open rear diff (I think it's a 3.70, can open up if interested) $150 E30 M10 power steering pump w/brackets $40
  11. Have a set of E24 seats that I'm never going to get around to installing. Armrest is tan and pretty dirty (I think you have to cut the armrest down to fit though?), seats are in good to great shape, some scrapes and black missing especially at the front bottom. I have not cut these to fit yet. If you would like more pictures, call, text or email. I'm in Phoenix, 85023 but do head out to SoCal a lot and could possibly bring them out. If you want them shipped, I'll have to get a quote. Thanks! Brendan brendang2000@gmail, 6235216006
  12. I wondered where they were sourcing these myself. It must have been Jeremy that helped me last time, because if I remember correctly, the new hub was shipped extra quick. I'd contact them, but I bought this brake kit probably 2 or more years ago. You know how it goes, buy all the parts you need while restoring a car, then years later you can install them. Might just be best to have the ones I have turned, or leave them on the shelf in case the 320 ones ever go bad.
  13. By souce of the hub, do you mean where I got them? If that's the case, they were new IE hubs. Saddly I even had to return one prior to fitting it to the car as one of the lug stud holes must have been tapped crooked. With all studs installed the rotor hat would not fit over the studs. Yep yep, going to have the IE hubs turned eventually, but with the used 320 hubs working, it's a project on the back burner:)
  14. Got the used OEM 320 hubs installed today. Zero run out on one hub and at worst, .001" on the other. Still have a bit of run out with the rotors installed, .003" and .002", but I never had them turned. But for the important part, no more wheel shake and the steering wheel is not making my hands numb while braking:)
  15. Yea, I've checked bearings a few times as they did loosen up on me before. It's got to be that one hub, the left has .003" run out and the left is .011", way out of spec by a NAPA video I saw after watching yours; NAPA states most OEM as .002" or less. Steve, tires are new and rims were checked to be true. Also, while watching that NAPA video they used hub correction plates to correct the run out. They come in .003" & .006" thicknesses. Never knew these things existed. Should help for the one side but got to swap out the right one. Thanks guys!!
  16. Hello all!! Ever since I've added IE's Wilwood brake kit on the front I've had wheel shake, it's worse while hitting the brakes. The car has 5k miles on it since restore and everything is new (which makes finding the culprit harder). I've changed tires and made sure rims were true, so now I'm moving onto rotors and the 320 hubs. I checked run out on the rotors and was getting a few thousands, don't remember the exact amount, and wanted to check the hubs before I had these new rotors turned. Does anybody have the spec on 320 hub run out? I can't find much info on this subject, but I'm guessing that the .011"-.012" that I'm getting on the hub could be the cause, video attached (I hope!). Bearings are "just loose", front suspension is tight, I think I'm checking the run out correctly. Anything I'm missing, doing wrong? As always, thanks!!! IMG_1166.MOV IMG_1166.MOV
  17. Yea, correct for the plastic. Forget to mention, both floats are plastic but the red circuled area in my old one is flat.
  18. I wanted to mention in this thread since I was following it to help me solve my lean off-idle stumble, that make sure you check your float level, even on new carbs!! I did all the adjustments to jetting and e-tubes but still had the stumble. I checked my float and it was set high, this was a new carb! I set to spec and the stumble went away.
  19. After noticing my old 38/38 was pulling gas through the aux venturi, a great friend of mine lent me his 38/38 that he was told was new and setup for a higher lift cam. Perfect timing as I was installing my new rebuilt block with +1mm bore, JE pistons and IE's 292 cam. First drive and I had a VERY noticeable lean stumble while shifting. Crap! I tried everything mentioned in the posts about fixing this lean stumble, jets & tubes, richer idle, etc, and nothing worked. Finally I figure I'd check the float, but why, it's a new carb right? My thinking was maybe the float was set to high, and gas was to low in the emulsion tubes. Sure enough, it was set to high! But the funny thing is, I could not get this float in spec, no matter how much I bent the tab. Then I thought I'd see if I could get my float set in this carb. I compared the two floats next to each other and there was a difference, picture is of the "new" float. In the picture, the red circled area is flat on my old float. This hump I believe is what is causing this float from being set correctly. Anyway, does anybody know if this is actually a float for a 38/38 or something else, because with my old “flat” float, I can get it in spec and sure as shit, my stumble is gone!!!
  20. Any chance anybody has one of the MSD billet aluminium distributors they'd like to sell? Let me know, brendang2000@gmail Thanks!
  21. That looks exactly like the kit I put in my E21 Recaros. They work pretty good, but by no means as well as a seat with factory heaters, it's like there isn't as many heating elements as there should be. That said, I still don't regret putting them in so I'd say go for it.
  22. I did the IE Wilwood front/IE disc rear with a stock booster, and felt my pedal was a little soft and had to much travel. But after driving the car, it doesn't seem to have any issues stopping, it'll pull you out of your seat, and I've gotten used to the travel. However, I did try and figure a different MC and found this website, http://brakepower.com/ maybe it can help you. Cheers
  23. They had those stupid cameras all over Arizona interstates for a while. Hardly anybody paid them (only 30% or so I think), and to collect on them they tried sending out a court clerk to serve you, except everyone knew this so wouldn't answer the door. We don't have them on the interstates anymore thankfully, but there are quite a few in the cities still.
  24. I use the paper type, and only permatex the timing/rear seal areas. No leaks.
  25. My '76 had a brake pressure warning switch, maybe they go to that? Sorry can't be any more help, I ripped out all the stock wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...