engine and drivetrain 1969 02 engine overhaul due to oil in coolant

[Conserv]

Hard to tell could be casting marks/lines.

+1

[jimk]

G is the main oil galey from the oil pump.  At the bottom of the head you can see it also where it transfers to another galley (the annular space around the head bolt) in the head.

Edited May 6, 2013 by jimk

[ClemensKnieper]

Hey guys,

 

 

I might have found the problem! A cracked bolt hole.. in reference to my picture of the block it's hole number 1 !

 

It looks pretty nasty in there, here is a picture.. I think this must be the problem. Is this fixable?

 

 

[bourkeco]

Did the machine shop disasemble and pressure check?

 

 

Edited May 24, 2013 by bourkeco

[vinceinIL]

Just curious if the shop checked the surface of the head for warpage?  The link below explains how to do this.

 

http://www.edsgarageblog.com/2012/10/how-to-test-cylinder-heads-for-warpage.html

 

I forget what BMW specifies as the acceptable limit (.008?), maybe someone else knows it and can chime in?

 

vince

[allbim]

It looks to me like there was a leak from the triangular coolant holes between cyl 2 and 3 to the oil collector groove in the exhaust side of the block. I have no idea how that would cause oil to get into the coolant, unless it gets sucked in due to low pressure while it cools. Make sure the head and block are flat and put it back together.

Edited May 25, 2013 by allbim

[FB73tii]

P is another coolant passage

Cracked block unusual but you never know. Block off all the collant passages with tape, fill the block with water and see if it leaks out of the potential crack (sometimes crack only open when engine hot/cold, but this is an easy check)

Cracked bolt hole photo too fuzzy to tell. A good machinsit should be able to say if fixable or not.

As said above, discoloration of oil passage may point to a head gasket leak. Other than your potential cracked bolt hole, do the following:

a) Have the head lightly surfaced so you know it's flat.
b ) have the block deck checked for flatness
c) clean the block deck very thoroughly (careful application of single edge razor)
d) new BMW headgasket

Put it together and see if it works!

Edited May 24, 2013 by FB73tii

[ClemensKnieper]

The engine is back together and mounted to the subframe. I a confused about how to remount the transmission to the engine.. haynes speaks about centralizing the driven plate with a tool that I do not have.. I didn't take apart the clutch so do I still need to do this? Can someone brief me on how I put transmission and engine back together? Thank you all so much for the help... 

[ndog]

a plastic tool?I would very carefully introduece the 2 and go with it....no bearing load,end play okay,and go from thier.

dont fallow my advice 2 qwikly someone w far more 2002 info may have better info..

Edited May 26, 2013 by ndog

[FB73tii]

Since you did not remove the clutch and pressure plate you should not need the clutch alignment tool. But, for reference, it is a plastic tool for about $10 (Part number CA60 at Bav Auto.) Its purpose is to center the clutch plate on the crankshaft pilot bearing hole.

 

http://www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?part=CA60

 

The key to mating the engine and trans is having them correctly aligned. I.e., the crankshaft axis exactly parallel to the transmission shaft axis. Hard to see, so judge by having equal gap between the engine block and transmission housing all the way around. Then you need to carefully rotate the transmission shaft (in gear, rotate from rear flange) to align the trans input shaft splines with the clutch plate splines.

 

Mating the engine and trans can be a real bear. I'll loosen the engine mounts a bit and use blocks of wood to angle the rear of the engine down so I have more room, otherwise the trans hits the lip at the top front of the transmission tunnel. It is usually a combination of wiggling the trans (which I am bench pressing and holding with one knee) and swearing that gets it in. Make sure to have a bolt handy to secure the trans once it mates, otherwise it will come out again while you reach for a bolt and you'll have to do it all over again.

 

At first you need to get the tip of the trans input shaft into the pilot bearing hole, then rotate/wiggle to align splines. Then it usually goes in part way, and after more wiggling it finally pops home and you can quickly get at least one bolt in. Again, the key is proper alignment. If not aligned, it just wont go in. Once alignment correct, usually good to go.

 

Best of luck,

Fred

Edited May 27, 2013 by FB73tii

[tim385]

nt

Edited May 27, 2013 by tim385

[ClemensKnieper]

Alright, the engine is back in the car and here is a video of it running.

 

http://youtu.be/Dxbf4oBrLqU

 

 

It's very noisy now, much more then before. is there knocking in there? Is it misfiring? What is the problem here?... not sure if it's still leaking oil into the coolant, I haven't gotten on the road yet.

 

First I need to sort this noisy engine out.

IMG_2389.MOV

Edited June 5, 2013 by ClemensKnieper