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I think this is going to hurt...


ATLBMW

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Driving today, leaving after red light and hear three load booms and the car lurches violently. Then, as I continue, the sound of terrible metal grinding.

I shift to 2nd, and it gets a little better, but then bad grinding. As I shift into 3rd, I lucky come up upon White's Automotive.*

I pull in there and have my wife pick me up.

Tomorrow I will go to White's and get my diagnosis. I'm fearing the worst.

When I pushed in the clutch, everything sounded fine in the engine so this seems to be a transmission issue.

Any ideas? If I end up needing a new tranny, any ideas on cost?

*White's Automotive is an independent dealer I trust with our late model cars, but have never taken my 2002 there.

1976 2002

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Blow up a clutch disc or a throw out? Center bearing? Or as others have said a guibo?

-Nathan
'76 2002 in Malaga (110k Original, 2nd Owner, sat for 20 years and now a toy)
'86 Chevy K20 (6.2 Turbo Diesel build) & '46 Chevy 2 Ton Dump Truck
'74 Suzuki TS185, '68 BSA A65 Lightning (garage find), '74 BMW R90S US Spec #2

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Guest gliding_serpent
Driving today, leaving after red light and hear three load booms and the car lurches violently. Then, as I continue, the sound of terrible metal grinding.

It's not the booms and grinding that will hurt; It is the mission creep and shipwright's disease that get you over time.

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3 loud booms and lurching ..... and you keep on gathering speed and upshifting ??

I like your sense of optimism !!

Cheers,

Carl

Yeah, I thought I could just drive away the problem! In all seriousness, I knew the mechanic's place was a half mile up the hill and decided to limp up, hoping the problem was only with first gear... It turned out to be bad in 2nd too, and I didn't really give third much use as I rode the clutch in until I stopped.

1976 2002

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There are 8 bolts in that rubber guibo, and when they rip free they make a loud noise when they hit the tranny tunnel. When the guibo is completely ripped apart, the car can propel itself still by just the leftover bolts grinding against the flanges... not fun, but cheap enough to fix. If it is the guibo, make sure you give them some directions from the forum for proper replacement (tighten nuts, not bolt. aligning driveshaft properly, etc.)

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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There are 8 bolts in that rubber guibo, and when they rip free they make a loud noise when they hit the tranny tunnel. When the guibo is completely ripped apart, the car can propel itself still by just the leftover bolts grinding against the flanges... not fun, but cheap enough to fix. If it is the guibo, make sure you give them some directions from the forum for proper replacement (tighten nuts, not bolt. aligning driveshaft properly, etc.)

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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The shop called and let me know I need a new clutch, and the throw out bearing is shot (which I knew was making sounds of going bad).

They also said I need to replace both seals in the rear diff, as they are leaking a lot. No leaks that I could see on the garage floor at home prior, so I am wondering if these have something to do with what happened yesterday.

I asked them to check out the flex disc while they are under there, since that is what many on this board suggested (and I know it is a common problem). They said it looks fine - no cracks or signs of wear.

Does all of this sound legit? Price for the clutch work is $790 and rears seals is $295.

1976 2002

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Hello,

New to you car.. Hmmm IMHO have the shop perform a complete safety inspection as well.

One alternative is to have them do the difficult tasks and then you can do$$ the easier ones.

Either spend the money for the shop to do it or do it yourself if you can.

To further limit duplicate and overlapping$$ labor effort$, I would also do the following...

In addition to the clutch job... I would replace the flex disc/guibo joint but that is only if it were my choice. You may wish to inspect/replace your clutch slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder and hose, shifting linkage/bushings and shifter plate mounts.

Re-seal the diff too with a seal kit, or defer it has enough fluid in it for now.

You would pay yourself if you did your own work tho but you have to invest in some tools..

Seems like a lot to do but may save $ in the long run.

Good luck and happy motoring

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+1 what Mike says above.

-- replace the guibo. You'll get years & years of worry-free driving.

-- clutch master & slave cylinders & hoses are inexpensive (not difficult for a home project if you're interested). Again, worry-free driving.

-- shifter stuff: as long as the transmission is out ......

Cheers,

Carl

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They also said I need to replace both seals in the rear diff, as they are leaking a lot.

What is the condition of the front diff seals?

;~ )

LOL,

but..you said "both" seals. there are more than two seals in the diff. nose, sides, cover, fill plug, drain plug....what is "both"? or the "leaking a lot" could be grease from torn inner CV boots.

2xM3

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