Need Help with DCOE manifold (warneford) and parts buy

[felix_666]

Trying to get my head around the manifold i have and what else I need for my conversion.

Its clearly a warneford, but has several extra attachments, see pics, they seem like they've been retro fitted.

I have been following the great faq write up by Forza on DCOE conversions:

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,322335/

I have weber 40's, bavarian fuel pump, linkage kit from IE for the manifold, original choke, fuel lines.

I'm trying to work out what all the extra holes are for??

Most other DCOE manifolds don't seem to have the plumbing for coolant, as this does, is it simply set up the same the stock manifold, meaning I don't need a water bypass setup?

I'm leaning towards another manifold given the space confinements this manifold creates unless there is an advantage to this particular manifold.

Need help on deciding.

Thanks for any input.

[LimeySteve]

I Have the same manifold on my car, great for LHD cars as the runners are short , to help clear booster, I still removed my booster to get longer ram tubes in. I like the water bypass piece too. Just plug the extra 1/4 pipe fittings & go for it.

[TobyB]

Ha- someone went nuts trying to get a sidedraft setup to be managable...

The water plenum's to try to heat the manifold to help with cold icing/

mixture separation and precipitation.. Not sure it'd be all that effective given how short

the manifold is, but you gotta give 'em credit for trying.

The nipples were probably run to a common plenum to try to get a vacuum advance

distributor to work. If you use long, small tubes and play around with

'reservoir' size, it just might- Alfa did a very similar thing with SPICA injected

cars.

Nothing wrong with either. Not sure how effective they'd be, but especially

the vacuum plenum'd be useful if you could get it to work.

t

[felix_666]

I Have the same manifold on my car, great for LHD cars as the runners are short , to help clear booster, I still removed my booster to get longer ram tubes in. I like the water bypass piece too. Just plug the extra 1/4 pipe fittings & go for it.

I'm confused, I thought these manifolds were known to be long, therefore intruding on booster space, not short? Or are there several Warneford manifolds? RHD cars have boosters in the same spot as far I know.

[felix_666]

@toby

Given I'm doing a full resto, and starting from scratch with everything, do you think to get the thing running it would be easier just to plug them up and maybe worry about them later?

[tim385]

Hi Have a look at EFI Hardware site they do a similar manifold they are in Melb. Redline do linkages, pretty easy set up to do RHD dont have the clearance issues that LHD cars have (booster), Im running Cannon manifolds & 2x45 webers.

[visionaut]

The Warnefords are definitely on the longer-side, length-wise, and among the longest length sidedraft manifolds for the 02 - not among the shorter ones...

Mine doesn't have any of those 'extra taps' - likely those extra hose-mounted ones are someone trying to either tap limited vacuum or heat from the manifold (IMHO, futile mods). Even the more 'normal' linkage mounting positions on mine are also untapped. There's no coolant passages in the manifold...

Tom

[felix_666]

My head is beginning to spin...

I currently have a warneford manifold and suitable linkage kit from IE for the manifold, not sure how linkage kits vary, mounting orientation?

I kinda wanna do this once, properly. Should I stick with what I've got, or change the manifold? My concern is that given all those extra holes, the PO was having a hard time setting it up, I dont want to deal with the same problems. Thoughts? I guess though the manifold shouldn't make much difference in setting it up, apart from space. Maybe they didn't have the right dizzy?

Need I worry about the coolant plumbing given I live in non-snow environment?

I also have a crane that I was going to install once I got the engine running as i thought it would be too difficult to install the crane before I got the engine running. This leads me onto the distributor which is causing my headache to grow.

Too many questions.... need some weekend relief. Thanks to those helping me nut this out.

[Harv]

This is one of the longer manefolds. I used those oval tapered ram flow filters without a velocity stacks. The rear one would dent from the standard brake booster.

John

[tim385]

Use what you have, use the water bypass or not ,your choice, block up the holes you dont need or get them welded up , depending on your linkage you may have to drill and tap a hole , mechanical adv dizzy as you will not get a lot of vacuum.

[tim385]

Heres one of mine

[Simeon]

My head is beginning to spin...

I currently have a warneford manifold and suitable linkage kit from IE for the manifold, not sure how linkage kits vary, mounting orientation?

I kinda wanna do this once, properly. Should I stick with what I've got, or change the manifold? My concern is that given all those extra holes, the PO was having a hard time setting it up, I dont want to deal with the same problems. Thoughts? I guess though the manifold shouldn't make much difference in setting it up, apart from space. Maybe they didn't have the right dizzy?

Need I worry about the coolant plumbing given I live in non-snow environment?

I also have a crane that I was going to install once I got the engine running as i thought it would be too difficult to install the crane before I got the engine running. This leads me onto the distributor which is causing my headache to grow.

Too many questions.... need some weekend relief. Thanks to those helping me nut this out.

If it was me (always a good start), I would do the ignition first. Make sure that is sweet before changing anything else. Just blank off the vac ports leaving only the booster connection. Run a mech advance only distributor (make the change with the Crane) and keep it simple.

The coolant plumbing is more about solving the issue about interconnecting the heater hose with the water pump. This is normally done with the tii or 320i water bypass pipe. If you have already bypassed the manifold then you certainly don't need to 'un-bypass' it. If you sill have it connected via the downdraft manifold then this facility might help. My guess is that the hotspot will be too localised and might effect charge density between cylinders (though how much may be academic).

[TobyB]

do you think to get the thing running it would be easier just to plug them up and maybe worry about them later?

Sure. But then you'll end up sorting out the distributor twice, if you

go TOO far without 'em hooked up.

That said, most of us don't bother with vacuum advance for DCOE's.

I suspect that, for a daily driver, we're missing out on something...

t

[felix_666]

If it was me (always a good start), I would do the ignition first. Make sure that is sweet before changing anything else. Just blank off the vac ports leaving only the booster connection. Run a mech advance only distributor (make the change with the Crane) and keep it simple.

The coolant plumbing is more about solving the issue about interconnecting the heater hose with the water pump. This is normally done with the tii or 320i water bypass pipe. If you have already bypassed the manifold then you certainly don't need to 'un-bypass' it. If you sill have it connected via the downdraft manifold then this facility might help. My guess is that the hotspot will be too localised and might effect charge density between cylinders (though how much may be academic).

Appreciate your thoughts, but just to get us all on the same page, here is my engine, full resto, nothing is running:

I see most people who use the Warneford manifold remove the plumbing, I'm happy to run a bypass setup, i think IE have a kit, not sure if it includes the water divider.

I think the divider can be pulled from certain e21's and e30's, part number 11531267535, not sure of the years though.

[felix_666]

Use what you have, use the water bypass or not ,your choice, block up the holes you dont need or get them welded up , depending on your linkage you may have to drill and tap a hole , mechanical adv dizzy as you will not get a lot of vacuum.

Hey Tim what did you do with the rocker cover breather output, plumb it back into the filters, can't see from your picture?