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Door seal installation DIY?


supark

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I replaced my door seal yesterday, and this thread helped. I was worried that there would be a lot of clean up needed as I recently replaced the trunk seal, but the door was super easy. Still on the hunt for a driver side seal, but the passenger one I got was brand new (from an estate sale).

 

The old one just pulled right out, and the new one went right in. I used a butter knife, but would definitely invest in a blunt small putty knife for the next installation, and glued up just the lower portion. While the new seal isn't a perfect fit, it was pretty damn close, and now that its all sealed up, theres no more leaking or wind noise!

 

I can't wait to replace the driver side, if anybody has a spare lying around please PM me!

Daily '74 BMW 2002 w/ Dual 40's

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Visit my Wheelwell to see what I've done to the car

 

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  • 4 years later...

Help please.   I removed the old door seal and got everything cleaned up.

 

Starting in a corner, the door pillar side seal went in fine and snuggly into the track.   My problem is getting the top track.   I’ve tried using a putty knife, not luck getting it into the clean track.   It looks like the URO seal fits.  I can’t seem to get it into the top track.

 

suggestions, video and additional tips are most appreciated.    Rick 

 

 

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I use Ford Ford Focus door seals 2 or 4 door, very cheap from a wrecking yard, just trim the bulb part from the B pillar door area down below the window, they just push on around the door frame, trim for the sill cover . rear door top corner is not square so I paint the exposed area flat black, they seal great , the door clicks shut  . Not concourse but I don't care.

1970 4 speed 2002 (Daily driver/track car ) 
1974  Hybrid powered twin cam engine, Pig Cheeks , ( now a round tail.) Getting ready to Sell 
 

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17 minutes ago, LimeySteve said:

I use Ford Ford Focus door seals 2 or 4 door, very cheap from a wrecking yard, just trim the bulb part from the B pillar door area down below the window, they just push on around the door frame, trim for the sill cover . rear door top corner is not square so I paint the exposed area flat black, they seal great , the door clicks shut  . Not concourse but I don't care.

 

Have you got any pictures of that?

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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As for assistance with the seal that you do have. Get a rounded putty knife or a plastic trim tool and basically stuff the seal lip behind the riveted on rail an inch at a time. Make sure your tool is not too sharp or it will damage the seal as you will need to put some pressure on it.

 

Definitely not a fast procedure and one that I would love to have seen done on a moving production line when the cars were first built. 

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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I installed a set of factory style Uro seals what a nightmare and door slamming after , never again , it took too long was a pain in the arse and the door didn't shut nicely . Just my 02cents  worth

 

1970 4 speed 2002 (Daily driver/track car ) 
1974  Hybrid powered twin cam engine, Pig Cheeks , ( now a round tail.) Getting ready to Sell 
 

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Here are the seals as fitted by my friend Denny , before he sold the car to my son.They work great as far as I'm concerned the price & ease of fitting, maybe 10 minutes as it's a pinch weld style , plus some careful trimming with a razor blade .We used the front door seals from a 2 or 4 door they are way over length.

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1970 4 speed 2002 (Daily driver/track car ) 
1974  Hybrid powered twin cam engine, Pig Cheeks , ( now a round tail.) Getting ready to Sell 
 

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That is the donor model .I had a bunch of 4 seals and told the girl she must have thought I said 1 pair as they were so cheap .There are plenty in the wrecking yard in California and the seals don't get any abuse , a wipe over & they looked new, you just need to adjust the pinch welt to suit the door frame.

1970 4 speed 2002 (Daily driver/track car ) 
1974  Hybrid powered twin cam engine, Pig Cheeks , ( now a round tail.) Getting ready to Sell 
 

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6 hours ago, ray_ said:

That^ appears to be gen 1, based on headlamp lens shape anyway; 1998-2004.

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Focus

 

Cheers,

 

Those were carried forward here through the 2007 model year, then slightly facelifted and continued through 2011, in lieu of bringing the actual 2nd-gen Focus here. I'd be surprised if the 08-11 cars (sedan-only)  have door seals that are so different as to be less-suitable than those of the earlier cars.

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  • 1 year later...

Is there some trick to getting that seal to "slip" in the top rail/track?  I've tried every tool in the book and the seal just wants to fall out.

 

I'm using URO seals.  Seems that the seal lip is too shallow (like 1mm) and it just wants to fall out as I go around the door opening.

 

Never been so frustrated in my life.

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I did all seals on mine and found the door seals the easiest.

Firstly I made a hand tool of a bike tyre leaver (creates a great angle) and wrapped it to make a good ball grip and protect it touching any paint etc.

This became my go to tool for all seal work.

 

I may get shot down here, but I found that none of the weather strip adhesives worked for me. No matter how much i cleaned the surface prior it would not hold well enough. The boot seal was my nemesis, it continually failed - no number of clamps worked.

 

So after a tip from a friend I tried cyanoacrylate (super glue) and it worked a treat. It cost me a lot initially as I was buying the branded stuff - then I tried super glue from the $2 shop (all have the same ingredients) The downside of this is that it is clear and hard to see. Also the cheap glue runs away quickly so you need to have a mop up rag ready.

So, I marked 10cm intervals all around the door and glued in 10cm sections, as it bonds instantly it works well. 

 

I understand that the cyanoacrylate may embrittle the rubber, but so far after 2 years its been fantastic.

 

I used it all seals in the end I would highly recommend it.

 

Cheers

 

 

 

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