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About aussie2002

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  1. I had exactly the same on my car and it came down to vacuum leak on the new intake manifold - they 'settle' in and after re - tightening all nuts etc the problem went away. Vacuum leak solves so many issues - there is a great weber set up article somewhere that I read and the author insisted 100 times that before touching anything on the weber at all - be ABSOLUTELY certain there are no vacuum leaks. I did this and never touched my new weber at all. The author also insisted that most people wouldn't listen to his advice and will spend hours chasing other things. I was one of those people 🙂 However it is essential you also look at the basics of timing and coil set up (with resistor etc)
  2. ah ok, thanks Epic. So it may be that there is a difference between the 68 and 70? But that makes sense. Thank you.
  3. ok, so here is the piece in position that I thought it was meant to go. Any thoughts? Its the exact width of the bottom of the glovebox and overlaps the other panels well. I did have an early 68 02 - perhaps it was originally from that.
  4. I did all seals on mine and found the door seals the easiest. Firstly I made a hand tool of a bike tyre leaver (creates a great angle) and wrapped it to make a good ball grip and protect it touching any paint etc. This became my go to tool for all seal work. I may get shot down here, but I found that none of the weather strip adhesives worked for me. No matter how much i cleaned the surface prior it would not hold well enough. The boot seal was my nemesis, it continually failed - no number of clamps worked. So after a tip from a friend I tried cyanoacrylate (super glue) and it worked a treat. It cost me a lot initially as I was buying the branded stuff - then I tried super glue from the $2 shop (all have the same ingredients) The downside of this is that it is clear and hard to see. Also the cheap glue runs away quickly so you need to have a mop up rag ready. So, I marked 10cm intervals all around the door and glued in 10cm sections, as it bonds instantly it works well. I understand that the cyanoacrylate may embrittle the rubber, but so far after 2 years its been fantastic. I used it all seals in the end I would highly recommend it. Cheers
  5. ok, cheers, its almost ready to fit somewhere - Ill keep trying and let the forum know. Its possible its not from an '02. Mines a standard 70 2002
  6. no, that other piece I have (console floor). Cheers
  7. Ah ok, noted, thanks. yes, I have that one middle one - and its in position. Here is the other one, (being re covered so its a little hard to see) but it looks like it fits somehow to the bottom of the glove box, but Im not sure. Its not the same material as the other panels, and it has a thin vinyl covering.
  8. Thanks people, looks like Im destined to a life of OCD gear stick spinning.... my list of social isolation 2002 questions is alive and well. Now onto my dash lights issue
  9. Hi all, this may sound like a silly question, but how far can I wind the gear stick in? Does it tighten eventually? I was concerned that it could damage something. The gear knob is fixed. Cheers IMG_6295.MOV
  10. thats great, thanks Richard, I'm definitely missing that rectangular bit. does anything cover up above the hinge? ie when the glovebox is open I can see directly into the hinge? Also, is there a panel that sticks to the bottom of the glovebox? I have a panel (above A4 size) that looks like it goes there. Cheers Paul
  11. HI Richard, that would be fantastic - thank you. !! cheers Paul
  12. Hi all, Has anyone got any details of how behind glovebox looks? I don't seem to have any panels from my rebuild etc to fill it. Photos etc would be fantastic if anyone has any. (yep I know I need a clamp on the vent pipe :-)) Cheers
  13. sorry people, computer issues, how can i delete a post and start again......
  14. thanks Mike - JPGs uploaded, its a new weber so it should have wear.
  15. Hi all, I've spent months trying to work out why the idle speed wont drop back without a tap on the accelerator. I've tried heavier springs (makes the pedal to hard - RHD car) I've lubricated all he pivots, loosened and tightened etc to check that everything moves freely. What happens? - when driving and I ease off, I can feel the car still has throttle (but like cruise control) so dap the clutch and then tap the accelerator and that drops it back again. Same in the driveway, I can start it and give it a rev, all of, but if I hold say 1500rpm, and take my foot of, it will only drop back to say 1200. if I PUSH the top of the weber lever it drops back to normal idle. its like the last 0.5mm of travel cant be taken up by spring force. Any tips would be great, photos attached. Cheers all IMG_6263.pdf IMG_6264.pdf
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