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CYLINDER HEAD DAMAGE FEED BACK PLSE


Highgrade

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OMG how in hell could they break it like that is there any way you can file a dispute with the shippping company?

Maybe it's possible to solder it but I think that's unlikely. The head will work even with that crack as it's not on a critical part but you will be spilling a bit of oil from there.

Maybe not the best idea but....change stuf assemble head and put in some epoxy on the crack? that should keep oil off.

I'm no longer affiliated with Maximillian Importing Company in any way, please address any questions directly to them.  -Thanks.

2002 "tii" coupe 1970
E21 320/6 2.7 Stroker 1981
E23 730 1978

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Soldering is for electronics, so I'll assume the above post meant welding.

That area is not structurally critical to the heads operation so a welding repair would sufice. Might set you back $150 at a machine shop.

For the money and best practices, get another core and swap out the bits.

File for a refund from whomever sent/shipped it and rebuild a new one.

Best of luck

But what do I know

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Thanks for your quick input, actually the head is a new cast never used so I'm considering the welding option, any particular recomendation on the welding technique needed in this case?

As for the insurance claim I'm working it out with the seller but seems to be a hassle and dont know if there will be any outcome from it.

Do Good Attitood

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Tig weld it with correct rod (not sure what type of aluminum it's cast with). Don't let it get too hot. The repair guys at work don't preheat the head....they just watch the temperature when they are welding on it. Most heads repaired in the shop are much worse then that and most don't require any additional heat treating. But it's also comparing apples to oranges considering everything is done in house so we have complete control over the production of the head. It will have to be machined after so it might be easier to just get a quote from a machine shop. Good luck!

1976 BMW 2002

1986 Volvo 245 wagon drift project

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I'm in Mena, AR. I don't fix anything ;)

Unfortunately we don't offer to repair heads from other makes anymore.

I work for a manufacturer that repairs their parts if someone blows them up...lol. That was just info I gathered from answering questions from videos we posted on youtube.

1976 BMW 2002

1986 Volvo 245 wagon drift project

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Any shop that does Tig welding can fix that. The aluminum used for castings is typically type 353. I would recommend that they don't pre-heat the head, to avoid warping.

Typo edit: Aluminum used for castings is typically type 357.

No amount of skill or education will ever replace dumb luck
1971 2002 (much modified rocket),  1987 635CSI (beauty),  

2000 323i,  1996 Silverado Pickup (very useful)

Too many cars.

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Soldering is for electronics, so I'll assume the above post meant welding.

That area is not structurally critical to the heads operation so a welding repair would sufice. Might set you back $150 at a machine shop.

For the money and best practices, get another core and swap out the bits.

File for a refund from whomever sent/shipped it and rebuild a new one.

Best of luck

Correct I meant welding sorry about that!

And again as other said avoid heating the head to much or having some guy who doesn't know what his doing touch it.

It doesn't look that bad, Best luck!

I'm no longer affiliated with Maximillian Importing Company in any way, please address any questions directly to them.  -Thanks.

2002 "tii" coupe 1970
E21 320/6 2.7 Stroker 1981
E23 730 1978

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so a welding repair would sufice.

Absolutely.

...but you do need to find someone who's good at aluminum casting repair.

There's a guy locally who welded a bellhousing to a 1" plate for me-

didn't warp ANYTHING!

you need someone like him.

I found him in a boat repair machine shop...

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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I concur with conkitchen: not a structural area. You're only concerned with oil weepage and proper gasket-surface flatness to preclude oil leaking past the valve cover gasket.

I would be almost tempted to simply jam JB Weld into "everything" and let it go at that, since it is not structural .... but with all the vibration .....

I have used aluminum welding rod. Go find a welding supply shop and ask them about it. Here's a website to give you an idea:

http://durafix.com/

Or, I can send you a stick of the al rod I have.

Cheers,

Carl

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Thanks for your suggestions everyone, really appreciate the solidarity and mutual support of the members on this forum.

Unfortunately I'm located in Thailand (head was shipped from Arizona) so I can't use any of your contacts :-(, however there is some shops locally that perform TIG welding I just have to find the right one :-).

Just another question would you recommend disassembling the head before the welding process(remove cam, rockers, valves etc..)? does the heat might damage these components?

Thanks

Do Good Attitood

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Heat will not be a problem. Crud will.

No amount of skill or education will ever replace dumb luck
1971 2002 (much modified rocket),  1987 635CSI (beauty),  

2000 323i,  1996 Silverado Pickup (very useful)

Too many cars.

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if you TIG weld, no need to disassemble anything. The welding heat remains very localized.

may I also suggest that if you weld: as soon as the welding arc is ended, use a small hammer and gently tap-tap-tap the area of the weld, and the area surrounding. This will provide some stress relief as the metal cools. I do this when welding cast iron.

Cheers,

Carl

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