engine and drivetrain who all "Torques"?

[Guest Anonymous]

Agree - 65 ft lbs for wheels - then you can get them off when you have a flat and you won't strip the threads - that is the correct "book" value. You have to torque the front axle nuts carefully, and then follow directions to back off until there is the proper amount of play in the washer.

Harbor freight has cheap torque wrenches but you get what you pay for. If you are going to use a tool for many years, buy the best you can initially and use it with pleasure all your life.

[pkbinplano]

Only two torques for me RFT= Real friggin tight and PFT pretty friggin tight. But I also use alot of red and blue locktite

[Napes]

Several people above mentioned that they use, as do I, Sears ½" torque wrenches, but remember, to keep them more or less accurate for as long as possible, always return the setting to 20#/ft, or less, before putting it away.

In case the above posts encourage you to use correct torque wherever you can, here's the link to values for our cars.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/48/32/

Bob Napier

[jgerock]

I have always been afraid of under or over-tightening automotive fasteners. Anyone here remember a NASCAR Winston Cup race where a car came out of the pits and at least 2 wheels came off (Alan Kulwicki maybe?).

I have 1/2" and 3/8" Craftsman click type torque wrenches.

Thanks to Bob ^ for reminding everyone to back down the settings to zero (or STOP) before storing the wrench.

I keep a copy of the FAQ torque values printout hanging in the garage.

[gracer]

I have used torque wrenches on every engine I have ever worked with. From 2,400 ft/lbs to 15inch/lbs. You also need to know what lube to use on the threads. As said previously over torquing can strech the bolt/stud beyond limits. G

[TobyB]

years ago they discovered that good, competent mechanics could get

things torqued more accurately than torque wrenches could.

Thus, the 'torque to yield' fastener was born...

Personally, I have 6 torque wrenches:

one's a big 1/2" drive craftsman clicker to 300 ft/lbs

one's a little 3/8 beam to 50 ft/lbs

one's a tiny 1/4" beam in inch/lbs.

These 3 live in a safe toolbox, and only get used for head gaskets and the like.

The few things that really matter.

Then there's a 1/2 drive craftsman that's permaset at 65 ft/lbs for wheels.

Then there's the right arm, which is more accurate than most wrenches

then there's the left arm that's a bit less accurate.

I use the last 2 mostly.

t

[jhenard]

PKB,

You forgot "spot" torque. Torque it until you see spots.

[kris]

Being a Canadian, and it being winter, I first misread it as "Who all Toques". We wear those all winter up here

I torque pretty much anything I can get the torque wrench onto.

[Cameron]

I have a good feel for how tight is tight enough, and then there are certian fasteners that I always torque. Water pumps, timing covers, heads, wheels - basically most multi-fastener items.

You really get to know how a bolt feels when it is reaching it's yield point when you start doing torque+angle. Most of the cylinder heads I do at work are on the dodge 3.7L and 4.7L engines. They are torqued something like 20 ft/lbs, 80 ft/lbs, 80 ft/lbs again, +90 degrees, and then another 90 degrees. The first 90 goes pretty smooth, but on the second go round, you really feel the stretch.

One of the Subaru techs in our dealer group was telling me that some of the subaru heads you do 180 degrees, and then back off 90 degrees and add 45 or something strange like that.

[Cyclone101]

As they say, "torque is cheap"

I think i might have that wrong though.

Regards

Jacques

[02Les]

Amazing, all these replies and no one, knowing it is a German car, said “Guten Tite“.

[Napes]

Les wins the thread trophy.

Bob Napier

[gracer]

"Les wins the thread trophy" But did he go to "TORQUE U"? G

[Cameron]

Les wins the thread trophy.

Bob Napier

Damn it, I opened this thread meaning to say that and it completely slipped my mind!

[Napes]

Cameron - You snooze, you lose.

Bob Napier