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Argh! What's up with my transmission??


haromich
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Guys: My 69 20 (built Sept 68, VIN 1663275) has been running great, even though the synchro ring must be wearing out in second gear. I've been told I have the early version 4 speed, mated version with a "long neck" differential. Recently though, the gears occasionally grind badly shifting out of neutral to first or reverse. It only occurs every 20 shifts or so (it's not consistent). The clutch is adjusted correctly (engages about halfway through the pedal travel). Does anyone have any suggestions/advice?

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yeah, but you won't like 'em.

Do you have a mechanical clutch?

Either way, pilot bearing or throwout bearing are the first things

I think of. Something that's starting to bind...

With hydraulics, you can always blame them, and change the rubber

hose and hope for the best.

sorry.

t

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First of all, the tranny used with a long neck diff is the same one used with the short neck...these early cars have the Porsche-style synchros, and the 2nd gear synchro was notorious for wearing out early in life. I have a Feb '69 production '02 and have babied that synchro since the car was new--I may have the only original one left that still shifts without crunching!

Little known fact--on 02s with VINs below 1665200, the clutch slave cylinder pushrod is adjustable. Suggest you might adjust the pushrod and see if that cures your grinding problem. I had the same symptoms many years ago--before I discovered the adjustable pushrod--something you don't expect in a hydraulic clutch system.

Hope that does it.

cheers

mike

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for reverse, try slowing down a bit - push the pedal down, wait a beat or two, and then shift.

I usually try to keep it under 10 mph before shifting into reverse... ha, ha. Seriously, even sitting in place, and giving it a full minute doesn't alway solve the problem. Thanks though, I recall it took me six months learning your point when I first started driving!

I put in all new clutch m/c and slave cylinder. I tried to go the cheap and didn't replace the lines though, even though prior posts explained how the rubber lines can swell (But I would think that would cause excess slipping). Unfortunately, the throw-out & pilot bearing or something binding sounds consistent with the overall condition of the vehicle when I first got it last year (all gummed up/not operational due to sitting with a leaky roof for many years.)

I hope the adjustment rod works, because new lines, clutch, throwout bearing -- ($) ouch ($) -- probably won't be cheap. I was given the car for free to save it from the steel recycling mill (and have paid for it ever since).

Who was it that said "bring a wallet when you go to get a BMW!!!

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If it helps in any way, I had the same problem with my first car, I know what you are saying when it's not all the time but once in a while.

If I recall correct the early cars had the adjustments as others had mentioned in the rod, I know some 2000's had them and others did not. There was a long and short slave atleast on some 2000 models.

What used to work for me on that car was 1st put the gearbox in 4th and then shift into either 1st or reverse, 4th seemed to work better, I also had filled the gearbox with regular 30W motor oil and never had too much of a problem after that.

Not that it was cured in any way, I would never pretend that, it just made it easier to deal with! (this site needs smileys)

Jon

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