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why does car keep running a few seconds after ignition off?


supark

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This has been occurring since I bought my 72 2002 a few months ago. Every once in a while, like maybe once every dozen times, the car will continue to run for about 2-3 seconds after I turn off the ignition. I'm guessing it's a bit of gas left in the carb, but don't know why it would there would be an ignition source for it to keep sparking for those few seconds.

Thoughts?

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This is because 2002's are made to be driven. Your is telling you that you are not driving it enough.

It's continuing to run is an invitation from your car for you to drive it more often.

Cheers,

Ray

This has been occurring since I bought my 72 2002 a few months ago. Every once in a while, like maybe once every dozen times, the car will continue to run for about 2-3 seconds after I turn off the ignition. I'm guessing it's a bit of gas left in the carb, but don't know why it would there would be an ignition source for it to keep sparking for those few seconds.

Thoughts?

Ray

Stop reading this! Don't you have anything better to do?? :P
Two running things. Two broken things.

 

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carbon build up

wrong spark plugs

no timing light used

carb fuel shut off solenoid inop or leaking pintle valve

grossly maladjusted carburetor

realy stinko gas

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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This is because 2002's are made to be driven. Your is telling you that you are not driving it enough.

It's continuing to run is an invitation from your car for you to drive it more often.

Cheers,

Ray

Ray,

This is why I love to read all of your posts!

Dave

Pittsburgh, PA

67.5 Datsun Roadster

72 2002 Colorado

89 325ix

99 318ti

04 x5 3.0

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Don't encourage me; I'm sure it will end badly!

;-)

To the OP: a stopgap measure would be to cut the car off in gear and gently release the clutch at the same time. Um, with your foot on the brake.

Cheers,

Ray

This is because 2002's are made to be driven. Your is telling you that you are not driving it enough.

It's continuing to run is an invitation from your car for you to drive it more often.

Cheers,

Ray

Ray,

This is why I love to read all of your posts!

Dave

Ray

Stop reading this! Don't you have anything better to do?? :P
Two running things. Two broken things.

 

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Notorious in Weber 32/36 DGAV applications. They make a thingy to attach to the carb which will stop this. I seem to remember having one, basically it's a solinoid which attached to to the fuel delivery on the carb with a +12v wire running to it. You kill the power it kills the fuel.

Do a search on Deiseling or however you'd like to spell it, I"m sure you'll find it referenced someplace.

BD

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Man thats just how it is I believe. I have had this issue with both my 32/36 carb and my 38/38. Timing is perfect, Hot spark or points, same issue. About every 10 or 12 stops it does it. I just gave up looking for an issue that is so minor. When I feel it do it I make sure I have the brake pushed in and gently release the clutch to giver her some help stopping.

I'm not as dumb as I look

74 Verona

06 Audi A3

09 Mercedes C300

06 VW Passat

03 VW Conv Beetle

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Check your dwell timing... Are you using weber 32/36 carb? There is a shut off solenoid run by a 12Vby the side of the choke, it might have some build up or worned out causing the dieseling effect.. Hope this helps

aha - yes, I do have a 32/36 carb. I will search for this shut off solenoid..

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Guest Anonymous

Hi there

My 510 Datsun with dual SU's then dual makuni's used to diesel, all the time..What was suggested to me at the time and it worked. Was when I turn the key off, step on the gas. This stopped the dieseling quickly. I tried the releasing the clutch thing it seemed abit awkward and inconvenient..

Try stepping on the gas after turning off the key and see how it works for you

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The anti-dieseling solenoid is located on the passenger side of the carb, just forward of the choke operating mechanism. It is a couple inches long and sticks out from the side of the carb at the idle jet location.

It just unscrews, and will have the idle jet just pressed on the carb end of the solenoid. Carefully remove the jet (it it's a little stuborn, you can very gently use some smallish pliers to twist it out). Then, see if the rod in the middle of the solenoid is free to move in and out, and, to test it's action, connect the 12V wire, turn the key on so it has juice, and ground it on a valve cover nut. Taking it on and off the ground should cause the rod in the middle to move in and out. If not try some carb cleaner sprayed down the cavity. If this fails, you may need a new solenoid, though I've been using the same one on my ' 75 for about 15 yrs. w/ no problem. Also, verify that you have 12V to the solenoid.

Bob Napier

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