Ball joint on bottom of strut

[sbarton]

How do you remove ball joint on bottom of the front strut?

Scott

[roadhog0]

I've used an air hammer before. Worked pretty well. Might have to fight it some though...

[AceAndrew]

Scott,

A press is nice too.

Expect if it's like this ....

Your better off getting some other ones (I've got some I can send over if needs be.)

[c.d.iesel]

AND after you dremel cut the decomposed nut,

use a file to clean all the rust off the mating surfaces

colored here. Do the same to the bottom of the strut housing.

The two surfaces need to have a precision fit so the joint

is tight and doesn't wobble - which would cause the 3-special

lock-wired screws to loosen or fail.

The 3 screw holes also should not be enlarged

which would add to special screw failure.

[Mike Self]

pictured to unscrew--heat, persuasion, a cold chisel and one of Sears "rounded off nut/bolt" sockets did the trick.

Another trick--before reassembling the two halves with the newly installed ball joint (don't use any bolts but the "special" ones, and safety wire 'em), fill the cavity with heavy wheel bearing grease. That'll make removal much easier the next time it's done. You'll make the next owner VERY happy (or yourself, if you keep the car another 25 or so years)

cheers

mike

[Beach_Bum]

Upon installation of a new ball joint, should there be any play between the bolt portion of the ball joint and the hole in the pitman arm?

I bought some second hand pitman arms and a set of Meyle ball joints, and when I run the thread of the ball joint up through the pitman arm, there is a tiny bit of side-to-side play. I didn't take the ones that were on the car apart, so I don't know if this is normal or not. I guess when I tighten down the nut it won't wobble, but just wanted to be sure before I button it all up.

[Buckeye]

Upon installation of a new ball joint, should there be any play between the bolt portion of the ball joint and the hole in the pitman arm?

I bought some second hand pitman arms and a set of Meyle ball joints, and when I run the thread of the ball joint up through the pitman arm, there is a tiny bit of side-to-side play. I didn't take the ones that were on the car apart, so I don't know if this is normal or not. I guess when I tighten down the nut it won't wobble, but just wanted to be sure before I button it all up.

 

Ball joint stem is tappered. turn pitman arm so the bowl facing down. insert ball joint thru the pitman arm hole. Choose socket that has larger ID than ball joint case. Put socket over it and hit it with hammer a couple of time, It should make the ball joint stem seateded properly. Then tighten the nut.

 

 

As it was suggested above bottom of strut (matting surface to pitman arm needs to be cleaned as well. Picture was taken before cleanning

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 18, 2013 by Buckeye

[xferboy]

I got one of these

 

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Steering-And-Suspension/Tie-Rod-Puller/8061848.p

 

worked pretty good, mind you mine wasn't as bad as post # 2 or 3. 

 

Little goofy getting places to grab since it's a 3 cornered piece.  Way better than pickle forks.

[Beach_Bum]

 

Ball joint stem is tappered. turn pitman arm so the bowl facing down. insert ball joint thru the pitman arm hole. Choose socket that has larger ID than ball joint case. Put socket over it and hit it with hammer a couple of time, It should make the ball joint stem seateded properly. Then tighten the nut.

 

As it was suggested above bottom of strut (matting surface to pitman arm needs to be cleaned as well. Picture was taken before cleanning

 

 

 

Thanks!

[TobyB]

 

Upon installation of a new ball joint, should there be any play between the bolt portion of the ball joint and the hole in the pitman arm?

 

Just to reinforce this,  no.  No, not, no way.  It's a taper fit, which is designed to wedge solid.

 

If it's not doing that, time for more investigation.

 

t

[Beach_Bum]

Just to reinforce this,  no.  No, not, no way.  It's a taper fit, which is designed to wedge solid.

 

If it's not doing that, time for more investigation.

 

t

 

Thanks. I'll check it tonight. I haven't tried to hammer it in yet because I still need to clean everything up.

[Beach_Bum]

As it was suggested above bottom of strut (matting surface to pitman arm needs to be cleaned as well. Picture was taken before cleanning

So the ball joint fits nicely into the pitman arm once I pressed hard enough. Thanks everyone.

As for the mating surfaces, I've read they should be taken back to bare metal, but then I see pictures of people's suspension overhauls and the surfaces are painted (for example the "Suspension Rehab" topic in the archives section).

Am I missing something?

Pic for reference:

Edited November 21, 2013 by Beach_Bum

[roadhog0]

Just make sure it's flat and free of debris. 

[Buckeye]

Those surfaces were machined and machined surface doesn't get painted 99.99% of the time. Get yourself a medium wire wheel and clean those matting surfaces as good as can.

[Buckeye]

Those surfaces were machined and machined surface doesn't get painted 99.99% of the time. Get yourself a medium wire wheel and clean those matting surfaces as good as can. Fill pian arm bowl with grease. Proper torque and safety wire/ red loctite is important