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DukeRimmer

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Everything posted by DukeRimmer

  1. DukeRimmer
    (nt)
  2. DukeRimmer
    Undercoat goes on both 1/4s, both wheel houses, vertical panel behind seat, and trunk floor between wheels. The heavy coating ends 2"-3" ahead of tail lamps. Light overspray on 2"-3" of trunk floor under front of wood panels, and around lamps (very light on rear panel side of lamps). Doesn't apply to Blunt's '70, but on '74-'76 you want overspray on the reinforcment members that extend rearward from the wheel houses, parallel with the 1/4s. But what about that wavy door gap?? Are you really going to live with that?? Is it fixed? Was it poor quality replacement parts?
  3. DukeRimmer
    Make sure your assistant can open it before climbing in.
  4. DukeRimmer
    too much yellow and black. You might prefer Alpine, it's much brighter and does not stray from the BMW color chart.
  5. DukeRimmer
    (nt)
  6. DukeRimmer
    This should not be a problem. You're in luck, however, if the door gaps are even. They're usually too close at the lower trailing edge, which requires grinding and welding to fit. Adjust the hood gap to match the trunk gap, not the fender to door gap.
  7. DukeRimmer
    '67-'70 front brackets will also lower the bumper. Fenders and 1/4s will have to be redrilled. Old end attachment holes must be filled and repainted.
  8. DukeRimmer
    The dogs have the area from back of front seats to tail lights. Added bonus is that it tweeks the nanny types when they see the dogs jump into the trunk.
  9. DukeRimmer
    (nt)
  10. DukeRimmer
    you might also want to remove the fuel filler. I prefer that look too.
  11. DukeRimmer
    It's easiest to think of the generations as '67-'70, '71-'73, '74-'76. Blunt is thinking of installing '74-'76 lower side mouldings on a '70. Everybody knows what they look like between the wheel oppenings. They're all the same and require ten holes per side for the bolts and clips. His question is to use, or not to use '74-'76 mouldings behind the rear wheels (two holes per side). It will work, don't know about the look.
  12. DukeRimmer
    please don't let some monkey power sand the mouldings.
  13. DukeRimmer
    Remember there are four, not three, types of bumper brackets. You don't want the bumper end attachment holes in the wrong place after the fenders are painted.
  14. DukeRimmer
    and interior trim panel. A little rain will ruin the trim panel, a little more rain will ruin your carpets, and wet carpets rust your floors. Use spray adhesive and thin plastic. Glue down every mm of the plastic that contacts the inside of the door shell, except near the lock rod. Very important to keep the inside of your door water tight.
  15. DukeRimmer
    Your interior is in danger.
  16. DukeRimmer
    The motor bearings freeze.
  17. DukeRimmer
    Looked through the other posts addressing your problem, and did not see anyone mention the old school method of finding mixture/vacuum problems. Vacuum leaks can occur anywhere from the head ports to the throttle shafts. We old guys, after checking all the rubber hoses, spray carb cleaner on all the joints between intake parts, and the ends of throttle shafts. A change in idle speed indicates leak. It's usually worn out throttle shaft. Please remember that carb cleaner is explosive. '02 cents worth from old body guy. Good luck.
  18. DukeRimmer
    So low the rods rattled. Had to change the part that holds the filter.
  19. DukeRimmer
    (nt)
  20. DukeRimmer
    Hope to find a new home without ebay. Any thoughts? I am posting also to the e9 forum, but '02 owners are smarter and better looking. Thanks to F1reverb.
  21. DukeRimmer
    used screwdrivers, but the special tool of PeteinMissionViejo sounds great. Delia's technique is safest. If stuck, make a PMV tool or use the old two foot screwdriver. The top of the door trim panel is vinyl over thin sheet metal. Place your PMV tool 1" in from the trailing edge of the door trim panel and push, or hammer, up as close as possible to a 90 degree angle (straight Up). It should pop up half way. Grip the rear of the trim panel and lift straight up. Listen to Delia and watch that aluminum strip. It bends very easily, especially at the trailing edge of the vent glass. Occasionally they are so stuck there is danger of pushing your long screwdriver through the top of the panel (that's why a PMV tool is such a good idea). You can, if you must, pry from the end of the door. The sheet metal of the panel curves over the top of the door shell and ends at about the same place as the fragile moulding. You must pry the metal of the panel, not the moulding. The most stuborn panels want you to pry, and use the PMV tool simultaniously. Replace your vapor barrier useing thin plastic and spray adhesive. Leave no water leaks.
  22. DukeRimmer
    The air dam in that top pic is looking for a new home. It was knocked off in turn two at laguna seca, and retreived by a freind. Makes a great garage decoration and he'd like to sell it. Any one interested?
  23. DukeRimmer
    (nt)
  24. DukeRimmer
    Hope you can make it out, got a bit too close
  25. DukeRimmer
    Delia is wise and well spoken as usual. Allow me to add that '71-'72 brackets have two kinks which raise the height about 1" above the level of '67-'70 which use simple flat bar brackets. Fender holes in the wrong location will ruin your day.
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