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DukeRimmer

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Everything posted by DukeRimmer

  1. DukeRimmer
    More leverage (torque), no new parts, no loctite. You can probably find a better use for the $, and it's just as easy to leave a new bolt too loose as an old bolt.
  2. DukeRimmer
    Haven't last any parts yet.
  3. DukeRimmer
    Looks like e3/e9 to me. If you don't get a definitive answer I could pull one of mine from storage to compare.
  4. DukeRimmer
    Just want to second TJ's very important point. Hot sparks from both welder and grinder make instant pits in glass. You would be wise to remove them. Good catch TJ!!
  5. DukeRimmer
    You're right Pedro. Your freind's wrong!
  6. DukeRimmer
    (nt)
  7. DukeRimmer
    My '74 sounds like someone is under the car tapping on the drive shaft with 12mm wrench. Totally random, all speeds, accell, decell, cruise, tap, tap, tap at the whim of some gremlin. The carrier bearing was sagging so I repaced it. The joints felt fine, so I reinstalled the shaft, but no change in the noise. Guess I'll have to replace the whole drive shaft. Has anyone seen a driveshaft that appeared good off the car but not on? Que paso???
  8. DukeRimmer
    Clean, dry, well equipped garage to park it in!
  9. DukeRimmer
    NO
  10. DukeRimmer
    Rear glass a very hard to break. It's a great way to learn windshield repair. Don't use sealer, it makes the seal non reuseable. Don't buy glass for someone else to install. Installer will not replace it if there is a break during installation. A pro would never break a rear glass but do not buy a windshield for someone else to install. YOU CAN DO IT.
  11. DukeRimmer
    1.Check wear at main shaft end/drive shaft bush, apply grease if good. 2.Circlip tool to remove shift lever. 3.No loctite IMHO 4.Leave console, remove shift boot. 5.You probably already know there is a lock plate here. I once tried to remove the nut before the lock plate. DUH!
  12. DukeRimmer
    (nt)
  13. DukeRimmer
    I'm only a body and paint guy, but it seams if he's out of gear with foot off clutch, the first motion shaft is spinning full speed and power so the clutch and pilot are out of the picture. The main shaft must be dragging on the input shaft, so failing bearings, yes? Also fits the hard shift symptom, as the syncros can not overcome the sticky bearings.
  14. DukeRimmer
    P, but I can not imagine how you would get the ends right without removing s/r panel. Sorry to disagree, but it may help someone.
  15. DukeRimmer
    Always clear coat metallic colors unless it's a work truck. Shine is mostly the result of surface texture and wax. The last layer of paint wants to be thick so it can be wet sanded and buffed. Clear coating non metallics decreases the life of the paint. All colors oxidize in the end, if it's one stage color you can clean or buff off the oxidation and enjoy the rest of the day. When two stage color oxidizes, the clear comes off and you're repainting. Clear coating adds depth, not shine, so clear coat non metallics only if it's a trailer queen.
  16. DukeRimmer
    have even more names. Common as Budwieser. You may want to switch to ford style (1/4 inch), much stronger and even more common.
  17. DukeRimmer
    you like the look. Mouldings cause rust mostly when the paint is chipped on installation. Other areas will rust long before the mouling clip holes. The biggest problem I think I may be seeing see in your pic is hood adjustment. The hood and door mouldings may be mis-aligned. One of the top five mistakes made on these cars is the attempt to make the hood gap match the door gap. This will damage the hood trailing edge and the drip rail mouldings unless the hood is raised so far at the rear that the mouldings don't match. If I'm seeing this correctly you may want to move hood forward, lower the rear, and match the hood/door gap to the trunk gap (sorry, boot gap). My dogs are both heelers. Anyone interested in restoring their '76?
  18. DukeRimmer
    In the old days when I was in the biz. there was a good compromise. Ditzler made a urethane almost as easy as laquer.
  19. DukeRimmer
    my best friends are Aussies!!
  20. DukeRimmer
    Do not sand or grind until ALL the wax is off.
  21. DukeRimmer
    I don't know much about mechanic work and even less about performance and racing, but I have retired from the body repair biz, and am disturbed when I can not answer a 2002 body question. Our friend Jose from Las Vegas (don't know his forum name) presented one of these questions. He wants to put his original side mouldings back on his '67. These mouldings appear identical to newer type when installed, but used 12mm round clips. The modern clips we're all used to are 9mm double fork clips. I searched six different catalogs from moulding clip suppliers and found nothing that will work. Someone clearly found replacements at some time because Jose says his old clips are not round. Any ideas?? These are upper side mouldings (near door handle), sometimes incorrectly called belt mouldings.
  22. DukeRimmer
    I have two a/c sets from 2002. One has three pin switch, the other has four pin. I have 6 sets from e3 cars. Four have three pin, and two have four pin. What's up with this??? Don't know how to test them.
  23. DukeRimmer
    (nt)
  24. DukeRimmer
    If reluctant to come off in one piece, remove bar and ends first, then one absorber at a time.
  25. DukeRimmer
    (nt)
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