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BarrettN

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Everything posted by BarrettN

  1. BarrettN
    Happy to have something that may be of use for you Mike.
  2. BarrettN
    Just a head's up so if you want to wait to see how it turns out instead of buying a new unit. My sending unit has a broken wire - with where it's broken I could probably fix it , but I started digging in as I saw so many people having problems with this. I think I have tracked down the right wire, I ordered and a 100' spool of it shipped today, so if yours is broken, just hang on a week or so for me to get it and play with it. I suspect I'll have mine redone and will be mailing a bunch of people wire so they can fix theirs also. I need the good karma, so assuming it works (hey, it's 40 gauge bare Nickel Chromium resistance wire @ 70.2 ohms/ft - it's just wire, right?!) I'll just have anyone who needs some send me a SASE and I'll snip them off a chunk. I'll update here on how it works out. Barrett
  3. BarrettN
    I'm in the process of getting the driveshaft made (it was MIA when I bought the car) so I can't currently use the driveshaft angle to tell if its right or not.
  4. BarrettN
    Based on the numbers 240-0-0266-90-225 on the end of the transmission, together with matching it up to pictures online, based on that I think it's a 240. I'll check the motor mounts and report back. Like I said, this car was someone's unfinished project, most of the car has been gone through and is in really good shape. Based on the rest of the car I suspect that I'll find the motor mounts have been replaced. I think it more likely that the mount points on the driveshaft tunnel might be too low and may need to be moved.
  5. BarrettN
    My 74 tii was someone's unfinished non-running project - the current item I'm working on fixing is getting the steering drag link not to rub on the transmission. It's rubbing pretty hard, it's not just a light scuff. I've read other posts that point to the transmission mount. My car was evidently in mid-swap with a getrag 240. The transmission mount looks good, but I have no idea if the PO fabricated the bracket himself and maybe it's just too low, or if it's something else. From what I see it looks like it's using the factory transmission mounting brackets. Maybe this pic of the shifter might help identify if this is part of a kit or his own work. Does anyone who has a Getrag 240 and used a kit, did it come with any measurements that might help me know if this is scraping due to the transmission mount, or if there's another cause? Is there something else I can take a picture of that might make it clearer what's off? Thanks, Barrett
  6. BarrettN
    Anyone located north of Trenton, New Jersey? I've located some 2002 parts there, very inexpensive, some that I'm interested in, other carbureted parts that do me no good. I'm looking for someone who could help with shipping and such, what I'm looking at isn't anything large. PM me if you can help me out and we can divvy things up. Barrett
  7. BarrettN
    At last Saturday's Houston BMWCCA get together I heard a horror story from someone with a HobieDave bracket where on the way to MidAmerica he had problems with the bolts backing out - in the end he sheered off the AC lines! After locktite and other methods failed he tried using safety wire - and ended up with the bolt breaking. I just mention this as 2nd hand information, but it sounds like getting the bolts properly torqued and secured is non-trivial. I've only owned my 02 for less than 2 months, and have a lot to do before I'll be ready to move on my plans to add AC to it. Anyone else run into this, or was this guys car just possessed? Now that we have the fastener specs, anyone have the torque specs for them?
  8. BarrettN
    Yes, that's what I'm looking for. Down the road I'll probably do something different, but this is a project car that I just need to get roadworthy for the short term.
  9. BarrettN
    I'm betting someone who has relocated their battery to the trunk or does mad autocrossing and has had to use deck screws and rtv to hold it in place now has an extra set of the battery hold down hardware for a 74 tii that I'm missing? Barrett
  10. BarrettN
    Everywhere that I looked I found that my new to me, no battery 74 tii used a group 26r - but the battery tray looked a lot bigger. So is a group 47 the right battery for a 74 tii?
  11. BarrettN
    Looking forward to updates on this!
  12. BarrettN
    Trevor - the brackets arrived yesterday, thanks much and a pleasure doing business with you!
  13. BarrettN
    As the rust is inside the door skin if I can't paint over it that is less of an issue.
  14. BarrettN
    Right now I'm leaning towards soda blasting and then POR.
  15. BarrettN
    Essentially that's what I'm doing, I'm just leaving the rust.
  16. BarrettN
    For part #17 I would suggest finding a piece of UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) polyethylene, and get a Dremel tool. That plastic machines easily, is self lubricating, and tough as nails - it may be what the original part was made from. The material used for 3D printing wouldn't work nearly as well for this application. Rather than use an additive process (printing), a subtractive process (milling machine - or Dremel tool if you're not making 100s) using the right material would work better IMHO.
  17. BarrettN
    That setup looks like exactly like what I need - not too aggressive, and if I mask everything off anything stuck in the door can be dissolved with water. Then treat it with POR.
  18. BarrettN
    Where's the PhD dissertation on rust treatment? Given these are 02s that we're talking about, I fully expected to find someone's doctoral dissertation on rust in the FAQ. I HATE rust - I was slave labor in my parent's body shop and knew how to treat and eliminate it then, but times has moved on and hopefully improvements have been made in rust treatment. Current plan to start is to clean out the lose material that's holding moisture in the seam (the picture didn't focus well, I think the rust may only be on the surface and hasn't gotten a good "bite" yet). After that - well, I wish there was the equivalent of an airbrush for media blasting. Any and all suggestion welcome - and yes, I know there are people who would kill to have such small rust problems! Barrett
  19. BarrettN
    OK, so having looked at the assembly over the weekend, it turns out that holder 51326454165 (#18 in diagram below) wasn't bolted to #21 ( 51326454169). With two mounting holes on #21 and four on #18, it's looking to me like #18 is built so that it can be used on either side - if the four bolts are used for some gross window height adjustment- I'd be surprised, but if that is the case please let me know! http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=2233-USA-01-1974-114-BMW-2002tii&diagId=51_3354
  20. BarrettN
    I'm interested in this as well - would be fantastic if someone who has this figured out were to video demonstrating how to - I find sometimes a visual depiction for this sort of thing is much easier to understand.
  21. BarrettN
    More of just a general thing, but I set up a camcorder pointed in my general direction and narrate what I'm doing while I work. Months later when it's time to put something back together if there are any questions, I go to the "instant replay". A cheap camcorder from a pawnshop is perfect for this.
  22. BarrettN
    Thanks everyone for all your suggestions - it's your fault I'm broke! I'll need to go back, but on this trip I got: Clardy AC evaporator with housing, and console side panels - center console also, but it was really trashed. It had both AC control switches, but the knob for the fan speed is broken off. If nothing else I picked up another hazard flasher switch in the console. Two lights with buckets - one vintage Hella flat faced H4, the other a sealed beam Two heater valves Rear license plate bracket with lights - lights are crazed Two knee pads in good shape, say 6-7+ on a 1-10 scale Flag drivers mirror with damaged base and OK glass for a trapezoid mirror Exhaust center section hanger bracket Cigarette lighter Turn signal and wiper controls complete Right hood seal, not great shape, but mine was completely missing Cast metal steering column surround piece - the part with the circular hole for the ignition - in poor shape. I didn't recognize the part, saw where it went, and thought that maybe I was missing it. Turns out no, just that mine is plastic and slightly different, which is why I didn't recognize it. Two front seat seat belt receivers - the long stalks the seatbelt is inserted into - ok to poor condition. Pretty good for an afternoon's work
  23. BarrettN
    Hi everyone - I'm headed to a salvage yard this afternoon to pull some parts, and just as I was leaving home I remembered that the driver's side main window glass doesn't raise & lower properly. Fortunately the door card was already 90% off, I quickly peeled it off and found that it appears that the rearmost attachment point between the glass & regulator isn't connected. As this car is new to me, IDK if there are parts missing or what - and it didn't occur to me that I should open up the other door until I was already here at work. (And the passenger door is further assembled). Anyone have a picture or diagram (I looked at the exploded diagram at realoem, that wasn't clear to me) that shows how the rearmost attachment point for the regulator should be? Thanks! Barrett
  24. BarrettN
    All very helpful everyone - thanks so much!
  25. BarrettN
    I'm new to owning a classic car, much less a car ('74 tii) where so many parts are NLA. I haven't decided if my car will be a daily driver or not, it's really too nice for that. Regardless, I'm sure there are aspects of car insurance I haven't thought of - please educate me!
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