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Found 19 results

  1. Doors, windows, lights with all new seals and hardware! The chrome and colors really do 'pop' on a Schwarz 02! ???
  2. Precision and Perfection at it's best! Tesoro has started to come back into alignment to its original form! So relieved! These are the type of people you want on your team for a full ground up restoration!
  3. Basically, you have three options for this project in terms of budget: - $$$: If you're baller, you can just buy brand new door panels straight from Aardvark Racing, and just pop the old ones off and the new ones on: http://www.2002parts.com/bmw/door-panels.html - $$: This is the route I went, using the much more affordable door panel rebuild kit from Aardvark, cleaning up and reusing my old vinyl: http://www.2002parts.com/bmw/door-panel-kit.html - $: For the true DIYer, you could cut your own new plywood panels using the old fiberboard cards as templates. The first step of course is to remove the door panels. Since 75% of all of my clips were broken, this was easy for me. If that's not the case for you, you'll need something nice and flat and wide to help pop the clips out of the door. Once it's free, the whole thing lifts straight up (though it's a bit of a tight fit, so may take some coercion) at the top by the window and comes out. (Yuck! If yours also looks like this, then you should definitely be doing this job too!) Once it's out, you can begin taking out all of the staples that hold the vinyl to the old card and then peel the covering off of the card. It's glued down in strips with some sort of thin fibrous fill in between and can get a bit messy, but my came apart without much fuss: (old card) (old covering) From here you'll need to finish removing any of the fill material that's still left on the back side of the vinyl, and also remove the trim hardware from the old card. There should be 4-5 clips that hold on the strip of window felt and the chrome trim along the top, and the black steel top molding has bent tabs that go through the door card to hold it in place. I just kind of ripped it out of the old card first and then unbent the tabs, but this might not be so wise if you need the old card more or less in tact to use as a pattern if your cutting your own new boards. Make sure not to loose any of the upper trim clips! Now time to clean up that old grungy vinyl! I picked up this leather cleaning kit from Advance Auto and it sure seemed to work well for me: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/turtlewax-deep-cleaning-leather-kit-t480kt/10611292-P?searchTerm=leather+cleaner Now for reassembly, I started with installing the black upper molding to the new door panel. Being thicker the securing tabs didn't really go all the way 'through' the wood, but once inserted I managed to spread them enough with some nose pliers so that they gripped well enough to hold everything together: Then, I used some thin quilting fleece and glued it to the back of the vinyl with 3M spray adhesive to replace the now-shredded original fill material. This gives just a little bit of loft and softness to the vinyl, which I think is worth having, but isn't strictly necessary: Finally, it's time to install the vinyl cover onto the new door card. I started with gluing the top of the vinyl in place over the steel molding to keep everything in place. Then, I put the chrome trim pieces back on reusing the old clips, and then snapped the window felt back into the clips also: Once everything is in place up top, just start gluing the vinyl/felt to the front of the panel. I chose to glue the whole thing, assuming that if and when I ever need to do this job again, the vinyl won't have enough life left in it to be reused any more and I'll just need to pop for new ones. Again, I like the same 3M spray adhesive that I used for carpet and headliner gluing: Now is a good time to cut holes through the felt so that the door hardware (handle, window winder, vent knob, etc.) can all poke through properly, and then the finishing touch is to wrap all of the sides of the vinyl around and glue them down to the back of the panel. I just stuck with the glue again here and didn't bother with staples, but you could re-staple the sides too if preferred: It is WELL worth the extra $13 to get the new clips from Aardvark instead of trying to salvage the old ones, especially because you can leave the old clips in the old card to help you figure out which locations they all go into (there are more holes in the panels than there are clips). They just twist in by hand and then you can pop the finished door panel back on the door! I found it easiest to do with the window down; get the top pressed down into the top of the door first until all of the clips line up with the holes. Remember to fish the door lock pin up through the hole in the top of the panel when installing, which unfortunately is probably the trickiest part of the whole job, but once you have it through the grommet and the top seated, you can go around the perimeter and pop all of the clips home into the door. And that's it! Re-install all of the door handle hardware, grab a good bier, and be proud of your excellent handiwork!
  4. I'm clearing a few things out see below. All prices plus shipping. Sunroof parts - $70 Incomplete - Missing the long pieces, but if you're missing something - or one of these is nicer than what you have, make an offer or get spares. Sunroof cable sliders - $50 Great condition. Originally had these listed for 70, time for them to go. Pics in post below. Roundie Tails - $35 Chrome is pitted, and one of the lenses is melted and detached. The plastic will shine up when polished, the metal rings will need a refinish, or sand them down and black them out. B-Pillar trim - $50 Shines up nice, a few tiny scratches/nicks. Looks great from 3-4 ft. Early-ish Seat Rails - $200 Not the front lever ones. Some rust, but not too nasty, will clean up easily with evaporust or a blast. These are the rails that have the bent down tab in the front. Complete with bolts etc. These need some lube but work well. Black Vinyl Seats - $150 I had these listed for parts, but I decided to clean them up today and they're not terrible. A new driver's seat bottom and these may be good to go. All the functions - function: recline, push forward, headrests click up and down. Could use a spray of lube to smooth it all out, but it all works. Red Tip Antenna - $75 Pretty good condition, some pitting but shines up well enough to look good from 5ft. Doesn't retract. Will get pics up in a bit.
  5. Working on a 2002 project for SEMA 2019 - need both doors in good condition, paint condition is irrelevant as they will be media blasted, additional hardware is not needed
  6. I installed new door seals and I need to adjust the doors as they are now standing proud. I tried moving the striker latch but that didn't help. Ideas? Cheers Tim in Capitola
  7. I have stripped a '73 and have a remarkably clean hood, as well as similar condition doors available for your project. All three pieces suffer only from typical surface rust with absolutely NO metal loss associated with rust through. The doors are have almost no dings. The same one shown with the ding has some surface rust under the knee line trim. Both only have scaling on the underside, and NO rust through from the inside. Compete functioning window mechanisms, very nice door handles, etc. They are a bolt on solution. Hood, as pictured. $250 Doors as pictured. $250 each Doors stripped to just the sheet metal. $150 each Buy all three as pictured for barely more than the price of a single door new.. All three new? Almost $2500, sans trim and hardware...
  8. I have been slowly upgrading this now daily (for fun) driver. New lights, new seat belts thanks to Bluedevil, and other assorted items. I wanted to try to make my dome light work, so I changed the bulb, tested both senders, and low and behold it worked; on/off, on/off, on/off. as long as I held my finger against the sender! I discovered that the driver's door was missing its little "button" that, when the door closed, also closed the circuit on the dome light and shut it off. Called Mesa Performance, who kindly found me a replacement. I picked up the part today: .02 worth of plastic for $7.00. Hmmm, BMW really is believing all the hype. Then another hmmm; wasn't the original made of rubber? So, I proceed to attempt to insert hard plastic knob into waiting hole, while trying not to damage my recently completed door brake job. It would not budge. The little flanges were as stiff as the door into which I was trying to push them. I tried grease; that lead to blue skies and frowning neighbors. Next I brilliantly applied heat via my lovely spousal unit's hair dryer. Got the little bugger so hot I had to use a rag to hold it. Nope, not budging. Like I said, it's just one of those things that makes me feel like a Dumb @#$. Any suggestions?
  9. just picked up a '76 2002 but there are too much rust on the doors to be salvaged. so i am looking for BOTH driver and passenger doors. i live in hawaii i'm willing to pay for shipping. if you are in Southern California, i can send my friend to pick up the doors and have them ship. please email me at kazsano@gmail.com Aloha \m/ Kaz
  10. parting out a 1976 bmw 2002/2002 tii all original and lots of good parts, just ask. front and back blinker lights sold grill sold left light sold martin 925 528 8102 [email protected]<script data-cfhash='f9e31' type="text/javascript"> /* */</script>
  11. Have nice used T sigs froma 71 have some typical "crazing" on the orange lenses about what you typically find on used lenes $125 PAIR ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, tvery very nice bumpers that now have come off off the car that is now for sale as the part out process is now complete and the car is a shell frt euro shorty bumpers no bracketts!! sold bracketts !!and have the overiders still all for $400,,,,,,,, have longer side rear bumper still and frt shorty euro too or just buy the bracketts and or the overiders SOLD:!!! rear shorty bumpers SOLD!!! :rough Recaro seats E21 ( with 2002 adapters ) seats are still in the car and rough, come and take them out and save $50 ( Other ones are sold) Needs alot of attention but getting hard to find, missing the plastic emblems better pics to follow $600 sold !!!:: back seats are $50 for top and bottom $100need full resto complete grill setup including ROUGH kidney grill very very nice ( have 2 sets to choose from if you do not like these for some reason) also have the early silver ones with no black strips on the vanes $400
  12. will follow up with pics very soon frt and rear shorty bumpers in very, very nice almost perfect used shape w/overriders $650 ( one is w.o a dent in it,the has a small easy to take out ding no pitting) rubber rear bumper black brackett top facia ( lays on top of brackett mount to car) off a 73,covers that are always missing or ruined ( inquire for price ), one has the mounting holes a bit ate up but easy repair other is perfect tii non- vacum advance distrib in great shape no shaft wobble and lobes are good $199 headlight Buckets off a 73 one eliptical ring missing with old headlights from the 80's ready to put in complete with springs ,adjusters, and 4 bolt backing plate $99 each frt shorty side boomerrang shaped END PIECES $99 each mint, no dents but the rear tabs a need to be straightened a bit $99 each 73 doors complete w.o. the cards or handles but one Has a window and all have the wind wings and chrome surrounds, drvrs door is rough but no rust,,, passenger is mint no rust or bondo $350 and $250 (2) rear 73 bumpers complete in very nice shape have the black rubber no warps or bends decent chrome but needs redo for sure to look nice Minimal pitting never repaired before $299 each
  13. can deliver any of the big p[arts to northern cal;if Once a month near Salinas Or los banos!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, car went to the recylcer with all the supension on it rolled right in! but have more parts that were cut off ( pics to follow deck lid $299, flares and air dam $200 has a few cracks f( ALL PARTS ARE RUST FREE UNLESS MENTIONED great shape frt bilstein shocks seem fine $75 REAR LONG 73 BUMPERS air dam $150 has a crack< easy to fix windshield $99 has a scratch rear windshield with defroster $149 rear vinyl panels $49 for 2 ( vinyl is good on all) seat belts cheap!!! $25 vitaloni mirrorS $50 have two ( DOORS, IGNITION AND DOOR HANDLES THAT ARE MATCHED, $99 WIND WING CHROME AND WIND WINGS OR WIND WING REGS. INQUIRE, ROCKERS INQUIRE, REAR SIDE TO SIDE ALUM. TRIM PIECE MINT $60 ALL ELSE INQUIRE FOR PRICES drive shaft $25 roof $199 perfect, doors $125 and $100 ( NO GLASS OR INSIDE no CARDS OR HANDLES ON INSIDE BUT DO HAVE THEM SEPARATE) inside headliner rods $40 brake booster $ switches $15 ea wind wings 70 pair, all else call or email for prices 909 860 0434 M0100.CTG
  14. Would like to buy new left and right doors for a 74 2002. Checked with BMW South Atlanta - none show to be in stock in US or Germany, but doors are not listed as no longer available.
  15. Location: : Knoxville, TN Giving away a free 1972 '02. I used the car as a parts car and pulled the engine, drive shaft, transmission and front fenders. The underside of the car is very rusty so it's not worth restoring but there are many parts that can still be used from it. Unfortunately I don't have time to pull individual parts. Complete car only. Feel free to ask any questions. jwill214jacob @gmail .com
  16. Location: : Knoxville, TN Giving away a free 1972 '02. I used the car as a parts car and pulled the engine, drive shaft, transmission and front fenders. The underside of the car is very rusty so it's not worth restoring but there are many parts that can still be used from it. Unfortunately I don't have time to pull individual parts. Complete car only. Feel free to ask any questions. jwill214jacob @gmail .com
  17. I just finished up applying self leveling seam sealer to the inside of my doors. I like this product, 3M #08307 two components mixed together, and has a quick set up time, but for about 10 seconds will flow out, into seams. You need a special applicator gun too that holds to two tubes and squeezes them out. I made up an extension for the applicator tip so I could reach behind the crash protection at the bottom of the doors, and get that area. I used a hacksaw blade, some clear tubing, and pressed the tubing all the way onto the nozzle tightened it down with some safety wire so it would not pop off. The two component are clearish, not dark or black. I bought some of this for the first attempt on line, and did not have experience with this product, it came out dark and finally the side case blew out because it was old and dried out. Unfortuanately the one component spewed out and in my haste thinking I was applying the correct product (10 seconds! and before the side of the case blew out) I spread that crap all over. So cleaned all that up today, and using the new product, it went real smooth. A couple of practice runs with the extension nozzle, before cracking open the containers and going at it for real. It sets up fast, and hardens into a dense hard plastic. It is not soft like caulking.
  18. Now that my 69 has a 76 Inka driver's door and a 74+ Verona passenger door, I noticed a difference in the window guide piece that secures the back of the roll up window. My 69 driver's door has an additional support bracket that is tack welded to the guide along with a bracket that bolts to the door skin. It is adjustable in two directions. The 76 Inka driver's door only has the upper and lower attachment points (same as the passenger side door) Does anyone know when BMW changed this and why?
  19. WTB door panel upper hardware (both sides) PN 51216440181 / 182


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