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About Jbaumshelter

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Lehi, UT

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  1. You better be happy with pig cheek fenders. That will cost you a bloody fortune to take back to stock. If it's really a tii then it's a 1974. Clock on the dash, fuel injection bigger brakes etc. No point in having a tii if you don't get all of that stuff. They are really only worth their value if they are mostly original anyway. Did you check the VIN with the BMW archives to find the original color and date of manufacture? This is only my opinion. This looks like somebody's race/auto cross car that they either gave up on or something went wrong with it. That being the case, they most likely ripped everything out of it that makes a tii worth anything. The color is not my favorite. If you ever go to re-sell the car all these things are going to play a role in that. They put speakers in every one of the door cards! Blasphemy! This car needs a professional to do an evaluation of everything. More preferable would be a 2002 guy that has been at this hobby for many years. If it was a race/rally car, i'd be looking at the frame rails etc. Those aren't easy cheap things to fix. It this were a car I was looking to buy, I would have seen the fenders and color and just kept driving. But, that's me and I don't like them at all. Some do and that's ok as long as you like it.
  2. Jbaumshelter

    Beyern Mesh fitment

    Mine, no spacers needed.
  3. This one is hurting me right now. I know I should do this. I already own the damn springs!
  4. Jbaumshelter

    URO Door seals

    Just did this job with the BMW seals. I think a couple things that worked for me may really help some people. 1. I filled my sink with the hottest water I could get. Threw the seal in and let is soak and get nice and warm for 15 minutes at least. 2. The tool that worked for me. This hook tool. I was able to push the top door seal in and kind of roll the tool to keep it moving. It was a great help. I tried butter knives, plastic scrapes etc. Nothing came close to doing as good of a job as this tool. This is a Snap On tool but I'm sure there are others that don't cost as much. 3. Don't try to glue the strip along the top. It wasn't glued from the factory in those locations. Glue was only used on the lower portions of the seal. This also helps if you decide to change your headliner sometime in the future. 4. Be sure to remove the plastic edge pieces. Forget the real name for them. Once you get the door seal in, there is actually a small channel that those fit in on the seal. These go in last. 5. Put your kick panels in loosely and align up the little slot that the seal goes in at the bottom before you start glueing. If you do this you will have a better chance at getting the seal the correct length without having to trim the seal. The seal will actually move vertically in the metal channel at the top portion of the seal more than you think. Try to get it the correct length before glueing. 6. 3M Rubber Adhesive #4799 is the good stuff. Get it if you can. One tube of this stuff can do all the seals on your car with no problem. Somebody mentioned the correct way to use seal adhesive above but here you go again. Put adhesive on both parts and let it dry until it's tacky. Then do one more light coat on either piece of your choice and adhere. It works so much better and faster this way. Credit given to Paul Wegweiser for a good portion of this information. Did both door seals in under 2 hours. I actually had a harder time with a single piece trunk seal than the doors. Best of luck to all!
  5. Hell yeah, that counts. I've thought about doing that more than once. Now that I think about it, that thought only comes to my mind while I'm holding a wrench and sweating. Maybe they are related?
  6. My dumb thinking moment: Bought Bilstein Sport shocks and put them on standard springs. Now I get to pay again to add the correct stage 2 springs instead of just doing it right the first time. Doing things 3 times before I get it right is kind of my thing. I'm growing comfortable with this for some reason.
  7. That's some dam good info. I replaced mine a few months ago and never even thought about that being a problem. I will check it out before I put my door cards back on. Thanks!
  8. Gee, thanks Steve, you made me run out to the cold garage and take a picture. Here is a picture of mine currently without the door card for reference. That's assuming mine are correct! jturner - From your picture, yours look a little high. I forget how to adjust that. Maybe someone will chime in that knows the procedure.
  9. Looks just like mine. Normal.
  10. Jbaumshelter

    Bolt Sizes for A/C Bracket

    Forgot to mention that these are 8mm bolts. 10 or ever 12mm into the block would be much better. No options there but adding a lot of stress on 8mm bolts didn't feel like a great idea. I even worry about 8mm studs.
  11. Jbaumshelter

    Bolt Sizes for A/C Bracket

    This is the direction that I went. The one true reality for this bracket is that the bottom bolt attaches to the motor mount. If you have a bad motor mount, all the stress is applied directly to this bracket and the bolts/studs that are holding it in. I got to witness that happen first hand last night when I installed mine.
  12. Jbaumshelter

    Interior installation sequence

    When I cracked open the doors of my 75, those pieces were still in place and working on both doors. I couldn't believe my eyes. I replaced them anyway.
  13. Jbaumshelter

    Bolt Sizes for A/C Bracket

    Simeon, I got this done today. I used block studs instead of the bolts suggested. Either way works, I just felt better about that. coloincaalpine on the forum suggested it and it made sense to me. Word to the wise, make sure your front right motor mount is in good shape. One of the bolts in the bracket attaches to that motor mount. My was shit. When I removed that bolt the engine dropped at least 1". That got "not fun" real quick. I would suggest getting a piece of wood and jack underneath your oil pan and take the weight off the motor mount before removing just in case. 20 minute job turned into 2 hours. But hey, At least I now know I desperately need to replace my motor mounts before I shove my fan into my radiator. Best of luck.
  14. Jbaumshelter

    Interior installation sequence

    Yep, if you put sound deadening in the doors and replace the small little plastic pieces that stop rattles, you doors will sound like bank vaults when you close them.
  15. Jbaumshelter

    Bolt Sizes for A/C Bracket

    That's exactly what I was looking for. Thank you. I got my bracket a few months ago but didn't get any documentation with it. This is perfect.