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rstclark

Solex
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Everything posted by rstclark

  1. Yes this was mailed Monday Should take about 5 days
  2. Reminds me of the old commercial where the customer asks the mechanic What does the Thwap Thwap Thwap sound like to you ? To which he responds " Sounds like two weeks in Waikiki to me" Glad you found the problem before it got much worse
  3. PS you can actually set the static at zero and let the distributor do all the work. Get a good smooth idle with a low base static advance, ie 2 degrees and play with this You will be really safe with a total of not more than 36 maybe 38 degrees advance. With a stock motor compression of most likely 8.3:1 you won't get pinging . BTW in my car with higher compression I use 91 octane California blend so-called gas and this works Your set up will be different so keep tweeking things If you have a usb type 123 distributor , you can set two curves and try a second test set up against the base curve until you are satisfied by the laptop or the butt dyno that you have a really good tune Have fun You're definitely on the right track
  4. TodB Remember that a lean mixture. Like Idle and cruise takes longer to burn so the spark has to happen earlier- more advance. People complain about a stumble at mid range. With a vacuum curve the motor is ready to run when you accelerate so it’s really beneficial I think you will be happy with the 123 tune with the vacuum curve
  5. @Cr4tic jetting formula mains. 135 Air. 180 Idle 50 Etube F66 this is at sea level good starting point for a 38/38
  6. I’ll look up the jet settings when I get home
  7. OKAY Try this Mechanical 700 6 1500 18 2000 23 2500 28 4000 34 6000 32 --- MAP 0kp 0 29kp 0 30kp 10 50 kp 10 60kp 2 75kp 0 100kp 0 200kp 0 Take the vacuum off the manifold under the carb rather than from the carb. Just be sure the vacuum is from under the carb throttle plate Static can be set low like 2-4 degrees because the mechanical and map kick in early Find a good idle and go from there. BTW I have an electric choke 38/38 (jetted down) on a 9.5 :1 compression motor with a 284 cam etc. I really like the 38/38 for good low end torque and great colds and idle. So I wouldn't talk you out of a 38/38 but it well worth a try of a Sync Link especially if your 32/36 is running well Good luck with this project. Good luck with your project
  8. Just running mechanical advance is often misunderstood as high performance, which it is if all you do is drag race at full throttle when there is no vacuum. But that's not how we drive our cars - most of the time. For overall driving there is real value in having vacuum advance that comes in at idle and cruise speeds.I can send you a mechanical curve with MAP settings that I can guarantee you will be happy with. It's on my laptop so I'll look it up and forward it to you in a subsequent post.
  9. + 1 with VicLeonardo1 It's well worth a try with a sync-link on your 32/36 Especially for a stock motor A 38/38 is intended for a 6 cylinder It's a lot of carburetor. Even on a modified motor a 38/38 needs to be jetted leaner Regarding 42 degrees of total advance. that's way too much. If you have a 123 tune, put in the Tii curve with a little vacuum advance and max the total advance at 36 degrees or less around 3500 rpm. Spend some time reading the lengthy threads on 123's by searching before you burn up your motor
  10. Okay thats fine I'll use a small Priority Mail box to protect it. I can't get an estimate to Canada with the online calculator but it looks like maybe $10 If it more I'll take care of it so $35 total PayPal is rstclark@yahoo.com Rob Clark 760-710-1189 cell/text
  11. Good question. Shipping to Canada can be a pain I believe the best method is FEDX ground. They hand off to Canada post and can be tracked. I'm guessing $15 to $20. At the most
  12. How's $25 sound ? I get some pictures for you if you like
  13. Adams Autosport has very nice reproductions if you want new I have a pair of driver quality and can send photos if you like
  14. Have you checked to see if the cold start valve is spraying any gas on a hot start up ? Thats the typical problem when the cold start box fails and sprays gas at every start hot or cold
  15. I have one from a 72 that has some rust but it's repairable I'm in North County San Diego PM me if you have further interest
  16. Toby. I think we all deserve $50 for following this thread. It has evolved into the subject of EFI I hope somebody does a summary on fuel injecting m-10s I’m sooo happy to be satisfied with a crude metal can that leaks gas into the intake manifold with enough regularity to make the car run
  17. Go back to the wiring diagram done by "Mike" A thermo switch on the topside returning hot to the radiator with a manual over ride is the way to go The fan turns on when the returning water is hot -- not later when it leaves the radiator in a bottom thermo switch installation. and you have the option of just turning it on manually if the temp gauge goes up beyond your comfort level
  18. Oh That's just what I was looking for in case I get a hunting idle LOL Actually good information and thanks for issues to look for because we really all want our Tiis to run like their reputation What's the order you would start this checklist based on the highest probability of necessity ?
  19. Sold for $36,000 Well I would have expected a little more despite a few negatives Seeing it in person may have chanced my thoughts The biggest concern being the 33 year old color change of questionable quality by today's standards
  20. Ceylon Yes a rare color Ceylon now the country of Madagascar What inspired a gold metallic color to be called Ceylon ? gold/orange chile oil ? C'est la vie a term that means That"s Life - a recognition of "Oh well" Great play on words Innica ! I think this car is toast But what are the thoughts about why an early 70's gold metallic color was named Ceylon ??
  21. Two I like One is a two stage silver and clear wheel paint kit by Dupli-Color The other is a silver metallic sold by Mercedes Dealers as a touch up
  22. Here are a couple of photos of the B130 motors They are stock New Old Stock M10 long blocks with Marine attachments Notice the horizontal distributor, the water pump at the rear The oil cooler with the oil filter, the coolant tank at the front which is a part of a two part cooling system The distributor take off is used by some sports car to lower the height profile of the engine. Interesting cast parts for the Marine adaptation.
  23. Reviving an old thread. I can answer some questions about a BMW marine engine Having recently obtaining 2 NOS BMW b130 engines and doing a little research, Here is what I know The original post is bout a b130 Motor This is the second version of an M10 In the 70s there was the 410 - a 115 hp and the 411 - a two solex side draft that made 130 hp in the 80s up to 1987 the b130 was produced with lower compression 8.3:1 The cams are very different Max hp comes at 5400 rpm the biggest difference however is the distributor at the back of the motor mounts the distributor horizontally to achieve a lower profile and has a power take off for an impeller type water pump behind that This pump runs the raw water cooling system Back to Barry’s original question I believe any model of the M10 head would work because the motor has flat top pistons He will need the original cam if it too hasn’t been damaged along with the cam cover at the back of the head for his distributor and water pump If anybody has a desire to have an M10 powered boat to tow behind your 2002 Let me know
  24. That's a bit of a vague question " What is the overall thickness " I can tell you the tank is larger and the core thickness is larger than a stock two core radiator Will the fan hit it ? That's not an exact science All cars are a little different. If you have even a 1/4 inch clearance from the front of your fan to the radiator than it would will most likely be OK Call IE and see what they tell you Or do a search on Radiators for many opinions and suggestions about radiator options
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