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Joesprocket

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Everything posted by Joesprocket

  1. Joesprocket
    If one hose is cracked and leaking there are bound to be others. I just replaced all of mine with Ireland Engineering silicone. The hoses and clamps are all top quality and I've had no issues with them for the last 6 months since installation. I believe I purchased the whole set for under $100. Do you know when the last time you changed your coolant was? If you decide to just replace the one damaged hose it's pretty straight forward draining the radiator and block and adding fresh. good luck!
  2. Joesprocket
    I found Markos and sourced the part through him. Thanks for the lead everybody
  3. Joesprocket
    I'm trying to fill up the open slot in my relay bay to wire some fogs but would like to seat my new relay in the same harness as the other relays. I'm looking for this black piece that seats in the relay bay. If you have an old one please let me know. Many thanks.
  4. Joesprocket
    yep - i think that sounds about right. Anything i fabricate is just going to look plain old silly. Thanks for the confirmation.
  5. Joesprocket
    I'm setting up my new Marchal fogs with a 5pin relay from Blunt in my cars' open slot and realize i don't have the harness (guessing that's what it is) that allows the relay to seat into the open slot. I've drawn a box around it in the picture attached. Otherwise the relay would just be loosely placed there with its connecting wires. Is this a part you can buy at any ol' auto parts store or does it need to be for 2002's specifically? I've looked around Blunt, realOEM and BavAuto can't seem to lock in on the actual part. Any guidance from the pros? Does anyone have a spare? Thx
  6. Joesprocket
    I’m weighing the decision of canceling as well. I’m also in perhaps a more unique situation as I booked a tent camping spot at Hot Springs resort. It’s not the driving in the rain part that’s the concern. It’s the driving 6 hrs for two nights sleeping in the rain. Not a definite and going to wait til last minute to decide.
  7. Joesprocket
    Looking forward to my first Vintage experience with the 76' Chamonix. I'm heading down from Richmond VA Friday morning and plan on tent camping at the Hot Springs resort F and S evening. Hope to meet some of you there. Joe
  8. Joesprocket
    oh! @worzella and if you have pictures to add that would be incredibly advantageous to all of us working through this.
  9. Joesprocket
    Thanks Randy! Really appreciate you taking the time to walk me through your own experience and plan. I'm going to follow suit the best I'm able to.
  10. Joesprocket
    mornin folks, For whatever reason my fast idle hasn't been engaging and I'm looking for a way to adjust it. This is a Weber 32/36 with electric choke. The most recent work I've done was adjust the timing via the dizzy. When it ran correctly I would engagew the fast idle mechanism by tapping the gas pedal a few times, the car would start and jump right to about 2000 rpm and sit there until I kicked it down with a blip of the pedal. Now I engage the fast idle mech, it starts but can't get above 300-400 rpm on its own and the only way for me to warm the car up without it dying on its own is to manually hold the idle around 2K with my foot on the pedal for a minute or so before releasing and it'll idle on its own. I've found some good content on the subject but not sure where to start first. Do i start with the high idle screw first or by adjusting the mixture by rotating the circular plastic piece on the electric choke? thanks for any and all.
  11. Joesprocket
    Hopefully get a chance to meet some of you there - it's my first Vintage. I'll be driving down from Richmond on Friday morning and camping out at the resort. Joe
  12. Joesprocket
    Perfect! Thanks @halboyles
  13. Joesprocket
    Evening everyone - can someone help me ID the bolt size that tightens the dizzy in place after adjusting timing? From the looks of real oem it's a little difficult to distinguish bolt 2 from 11. Also, are there washers involved?
  14. Joesprocket
    Nice work! Having read this I feel much more confident going into my replacement. Greatly appreciate you putting this together. Did you have a engine shake issue you were dealing with? What prompted the replacement aside from their age? Does the engine appear to run steadier?
  15. Joesprocket
    Second the idea of capturing your steps on this. I've been whining about an engine shake for too long and am just going to go ahead and replace the mounts including transmission for good measure. Good luck and be careful - i've researched this enough to know that while it's relatively straightforward it can be tricky to do solo. Good luck!
  16. Joesprocket
    Thanks for the heads up, Mike. I've been putting this off for a couple months now. Just got my ticket and this will be my first Vintage experience. Coming down from Richmond VA
  17. Joesprocket
    Hey folks - I’m looking for someone to walk me through a valve adjustment and setting timing for my 76. I’ve consumed countless articles and videos but it’s not the same as having someone walk you through it in person. It’s a show me once and I’m good for life sort of thing. I’m in Richmond but would be happy to travel up to an hour. I’m going to do the work myself regardless but figured I’d atleast see if there was someone on the forum close by to show me the ropes. many thanks! joe
  18. Joesprocket
    Ive always has this shaky engine. At least since I’ve acquired 8 mos ago. You really see it in the shifter too. Again it idles smooth right at 1k rpm - just shakes the engine. I’m on a electric choke and when I knock it down when warming up it’ll drop to about 700 and I can hear a slight ping or knock. It goes away once it’s fullh warmed up. Next step is to check valves and adjust if necessary but I just had the head rebuilt this past April. Can’t imagine them or the timing would be that far off since the top end rebuild. oye! At least it fires right up with this new battery.
  19. Joesprocket
    Updating this thread with a partial solve. Took my battery and had it tested at Auto Zone. Despite reading 100% charged it did turn out it was a bad battery. Replaced with a new one, turned the key and it practically leapt out of the garage. So - slow crank solved. The engine shake persists, at least more than what i think it should. All new NGK plugs, cleaned dizzy and points, also played with the advance on the dizzy. I can calm the shake down a little and drop the RPM Idle to around 800-900 - it typically idles warm with arrow sitting on 1K.
  20. Joesprocket
    I don’t remember but was your battery reading 12.6, or around there, before you replaced? I’m still having the same slow start issues. I have new NGK plugs ready to install and a freshly charged battery with (now) clean grounds and leads. They were not horrible but needed a work over to get bright. If that doesn’t solve it I’m going to have the battery tested.
  21. Joesprocket
    I had no idea AutoZone could/would test a starter. Maybe a dumb question but what constitutes a failed starter? Did it just not operate?
  22. Joesprocket
    Voltage measurement holds at 12.69 Started the car this morning and ran a test of each spark plug wire. Individually pulling 4,3,2 the engines shakes increase. Pulling cylinder 1 there is no change in engine response. I've pulled all plugs (NGK-BP5ES) and they've all got a fair amount of carbon build up and I've not changed them since I had a shop replace the leaky valve guide and seals. Not sure if this is the answer to my engine shake but it's a start. Plan on replacing with the same plugs.
  23. Joesprocket
    I personally haven't pulled any smog equipment aside from the air pump and diverter value. I felt comfortable doing this knowing they weren't attached to anything other than themselves. I've had the car for about 8 months prior to doing the WP last month and didn't have any issues during that time so everything related to smog has been untouched. I need to spend a little time educating myself on vacuum retard and advance. I'm not totally sure.
  24. Joesprocket
    I'm going through the same issue right now a few threads down from this. There's a video in my initial post. When i turn the key the engine turns slowly as if i have a low or dead battery. If I wait 5 seconds and turn the key again the motor starts turning a little faster. Wait another 5 and usually it will fire this time or the next. Once it does turn over i've got a pretty significant engine shake. With the help of this forum I have a list of items to check (i think i have these right): - Clean and check for proper grounding of the battery and alt - Timing may be off and firing in advance of TDC. you can gently adjust rotor to see if this helps. - Check to make sure the leads coming off the starter are secure. sometimes mine work themselves loose. I'll be following this post closely to see if anyone has other anecdotes or solves and do the same for mine.
  25. Joesprocket
    Can't say i've found a vacuum leak..yet. All hoses wiring as well as grounds look properly snug and secure. I'm going to try this over the weekend. I don't know the age of the plugs, wires, dizzy, cap, rotor points as well as coil. Even though I don't know for sure that these are the culprit i'm tempted to replace all this and start fresh regardless. In addition to removing the WP i also removed the air pump and diverter valve that weren't connected to anything. PO had decommissioned smog equipment but left everything in place (without being hooked up) in the event someone needed to re-employ. i removed the pump, the diverter valve connected to it and the belt. I wonder if by removing the air pump belt this has now thrown off the timing considering there's less pulling on the engine?
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