Joesprocket

I shoulda called it shot or not or shop. Looks like I’m shoppin for anyone who has one for sale.

Thought I had a good timing cover but worried about this corrosion around the water pump. Shot or not?

Thanks Jim - i'll make a note of this for when i get to the point of priming.

I just reassembled my refurbed oil pump and now coming across threads on this forum and others that suggest packing the interior of the pump with grease. I did pour oil all over the the rotors before reassembly but did not use grease like you'd use to pack your bearings. Should I be worried about priming or pressure issues when i eventually get around to a restart or do i have other options. The pump is still on the bench however I hate undoing things - but i suppose that's better than pulling an oil pump after it's installed in the car.

thanks everyone - i continue to keep low expectations and a critical eye. Validation when warranted is always helpful.

Thank you, Mike. I continue to keep low expectations at every turn however notes of confidence from you and other members keeps the motivation going.

If I order the plate from blunt?

Yes early 6 bolt crank with accompanying flywheel and pressure plate. The plan is to keep this same set up. Fly could use a cleaning and resurface but the teeth look good. Wont know for sure until i really get into it. IMG_0568.HEIC IMG_0568.HEIC

Evening FAQ'ers. While my block is out for honing and head being rebuilt I'm taking the time to renew other engine related parts. After removing the oil pump from my 69 I proceeded to disassemble it, clean and examined each of the parts. The inner and outer rotors cleaned up well with metal polish and I found very little pitting or scarring. Pressure spring and piston also look in good shape to the eye. I was able to remove all sludge on the back side of the pickup screen and clean oil passages. Used feeler to measure clearances for rotors against themselves and the housing and all look in spec against Haynes Manual. Overall I'm thinking this could be a candidate to be put back in and continue service as opposed to a full replacement. I know I can replace the intermediate plate as well as the rubber O ring (not sure size or where to find) Any other guidance on reassembly or watch-outs while it's apart? I'm playing with the heart of the engine so moving very slowly with this one.

Cleaning parts for my engine rebuild and found a sizable chunk missing from my lower timing cover right where the water pump bolts in. Don't want coolant escaping the pump so looking for a lower cover. IMG_0532.heic

Inspiration as someone who is very much at the beginning of the resto journey. Car looks amazing. Thanks for sharing.

Yep, same block. All are marked 89.46 on the head of each piston. I'm going to get my parts back today and start a new path. Will update down the road in a separate thread.

Heard from my machinist this morning after he put a micrometer on my bores which are reading 89.25 (first over) As reminder from my post yesterday, the tops of my bathtub pistons are marked 89.46 (second over) hrmmm....

I'll let him know tomm to start with assessing the head. He won't touch bores until that's sorted. Anything worth doing is worth doing right (which doesn't always mean cheap) I'll resurrect this thread when i have a sizable update and we can get back to the subject line. the fun continues.

Got it and thank you for calling out the second over bore confirmation. I suppose in some way I'm relieve there's at least somewhere to go and I'm not already at the max bore size. So - assuming that my 121 ti head checks out as OK - I would be shopping for pistons that are listed as "1mm over" ? I will pass on all of the above common problem areas to my machinist since it's seems he works on all makes all models.

I’m seeing 89.46. so this is what should expect to hear back from the machinist when he measures the bores?

Oh im positive it’s 121 ti. I just goofed typing it. Good to know re: crowns

Sorry yes 121 ti head. And Yeah that’s a great point. the head also will dictate the pistons and at this point has not been inspected or pressure tested. I’ll start there with the machinist and follow up. Glad I posted

Hi everyone, hope you're enjoying the weekend. Starting with context - 69, 2002 with E21 TI head. Driving style is casual and non aggressive (yawn, i know) The 2002 gods gifted me the ability to remove all 4 cylinders that were frozen in their bores. Took the block to a machinist and he's telling me i'm in good shape with the block but a rebore would be the best path. He's going to call me on Monday to tell me where my bores currently sit (if it's stock 88.97mm or if it's been rebored in the past) Either way, I'm in the market for pistons and will use my existing rods that are in good shape. - So bathtub Mahles 10:1 at 1mm over ($750 to $850) seem to have doubled in price over the past few years. But OEM part. - Ireland Engineers custom forged ($725) has been mentioned on the forum before but I have no personal experience. I know to stay away from budget "cast pistons" from genero performance parts stores. Where is everyone shopping these days? thank you, thank you! Joe

appreciate the input from folks above. I might be a little earlier in my rebuild to make the call if this head is right for my application even though I know I'm most likely going to need to update my dizzy and solex carb. I'm still trying to convince 2 bathtub style pistons to come out of their bores (any day now). I saw the post and couldn't resist the opportunist in me. Maybe it's right for someone else? Here's a link to the ad. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1149371172366783/

Found a seller pushing this head with Schrick 292. Is this a good market price based on description? Seller Says “ Head was surfaced, had a valve job and new seals. It comes with a Schlick 292 cam. It will need valve springs and rockers. I’ve had it in storage but know I’m never going to... See all

I don't have the illusions that I'm some kinda experienced shade tree mechanic. In fact, most everything about this project that I'm encountering on a day to day basis is some kind of first time moment. I hope this gives a little optimism to gals and guys looking to get into maintaining old cars and maybe they think they're not fit or smart enough or experienced to take on a challenge and learn something new. I've decided for a car that needs everything phase 1 will be rebuilding the original M10 that sits underneath the rusted out bonnet. When I showed up to buy the car from the original owner he looked at me and said, "it's a solid car but she's locked up". In my newbness, I thought he was referring to the fact he was also missing the keys and the doors were locked. Yeah no, dumb dumb. The engine is frozen due to the fact it's been sitting for the past 44 years and no one's bothered rotating it let alone drain the oil, coolant, remove spark plugs, etc, etc. So here comes a series for firsts for me starting with removing an engine so I can dislodge 4 frozen pistons. These are few of those firsts along the way that I feel are worthy of note. 1. removing all 8 copper nuts that hold the exhaust manifold to the block. Took about a week with heat, JB Weld and patience. But I retrieved all of them. 2. removing 6 guibo nuts and uncoupling the drive shaft from the transmission. 3 bolts come through the front and 3 back out the rear but only as far as the transmission. not easy. 3. removing the large pin from the shifter assembly. 4. asking my 8 y/o (almost 9) to work the jack trolley from the front of the car while I wrestled the transmission from the block. A core memory for both of us. 5. pulling the engine with a chain hoist and ibeam trolley. The i beam in my garage couldnt be more conveniently located where i only needed to back the car up a few feet to center the chain over the block. up up and away. My first time ever removing an engine from anything. 6. the oil sludge that i knew was sitting on the bottom of the oil pan from when i attempted to drain it and it took a screw driver to poke a hole through 2" of sludge before it finally came running through. So gratifying to scrape that out...but the smell I will never forget. 7. the particular hollow sounding thunk a chunk of wood and mallet make when they finally create enough force to drive a piston to move in its bore for the first time in over 40 years. thanks to this forum for the tips on managing these firsts and the ones still to come.

This engine was last rebuilt by Miller & Norburn of Raleigh NC back in 1976. The car has been parked since 1979 so not long after rebuild. Might be why it looks good so far. The crank looked fantastic coming out. Keeping my expectations low that this can be saved but so far so good.