Joesprocket

appreciate the input from folks above. I might be a little earlier in my rebuild to make the call if this head is right for my application even though I know I'm most likely going to need to update my dizzy and solex carb. I'm still trying to convince 2 bathtub style pistons to come out of their bores (any day now). I saw the post and couldn't resist the opportunist in me. Maybe it's right for someone else? Here's a link to the ad. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1149371172366783/

Found a seller pushing this head with Schrick 292. Is this a good market price based on description? Seller Says “ Head was surfaced, had a valve job and new seals. It comes with a Schlick 292 cam. It will need valve springs and rockers. I’ve had it in storage but know I’m never going to... See all

I don't have the illusions that I'm some kinda experienced shade tree mechanic. In fact, most everything about this project that I'm encountering on a day to day basis is some kind of first time moment. I hope this gives a little optimism to gals and guys looking to get into maintaining old cars and maybe they think they're not fit or smart enough or experienced to take on a challenge and learn something new. I've decided for a car that needs everything phase 1 will be rebuilding the original M10 that sits underneath the rusted out bonnet. When I showed up to buy the car from the original owner he looked at me and said, "it's a solid car but she's locked up". In my newbness, I thought he was referring to the fact he was also missing the keys and the doors were locked. Yeah no, dumb dumb. The engine is frozen due to the fact it's been sitting for the past 44 years and no one's bothered rotating it let alone drain the oil, coolant, remove spark plugs, etc, etc. So here comes a series for firsts for me starting with removing an engine so I can dislodge 4 frozen pistons. These are few of those firsts along the way that I feel are worthy of note. 1. removing all 8 copper nuts that hold the exhaust manifold to the block. Took about a week with heat, JB Weld and patience. But I retrieved all of them. 2. removing 6 guibo nuts and uncoupling the drive shaft from the transmission. 3 bolts come through the front and 3 back out the rear but only as far as the transmission. not easy. 3. removing the large pin from the shifter assembly. 4. asking my 8 y/o (almost 9) to work the jack trolley from the front of the car while I wrestled the transmission from the block. A core memory for both of us. 5. pulling the engine with a chain hoist and ibeam trolley. The i beam in my garage couldnt be more conveniently located where i only needed to back the car up a few feet to center the chain over the block. up up and away. My first time ever removing an engine from anything. 6. the oil sludge that i knew was sitting on the bottom of the oil pan from when i attempted to drain it and it took a screw driver to poke a hole through 2" of sludge before it finally came running through. So gratifying to scrape that out...but the smell I will never forget. 7. the particular hollow sounding thunk a chunk of wood and mallet make when they finally create enough force to drive a piston to move in its bore for the first time in over 40 years. thanks to this forum for the tips on managing these firsts and the ones still to come.

This engine was last rebuilt by Miller & Norburn of Raleigh NC back in 1976. The car has been parked since 1979 so not long after rebuild. Might be why it looks good so far. The crank looked fantastic coming out. Keeping my expectations low that this can be saved but so far so good.

Today the 2002 gods were with me and I was able to get the motor down to just the block and the pistons. Take a look at the pics. Piston con rods of 1-3 can rock back and forth freely. The piston heads are stuck. Piston 4 con rod and head is stuck. I think from here it's going into a rubbermaid and I'll attempt a soak with vinegar. Anyone have experience doing that? I could also use "rat piss" as i have both acetone and ATF in the garage. Really don't want to rush this as the walls look pretty darn good from what i can tell.

They are all stuck about mid point in their travel. Fingers crossed.

Quick progress update: this is how we're looking. Fly, rear main seal, oil sump and pump are off. As well as the lower sprocket and pump chain. For context - one/some of my pistons are frozen in place so my goal is to strip the motor down to just the block and the pistons in place. From there I'd like to soften it up by soaking in vinegar for a few days before trying to work each piston out. At this stage, knowing the pistons are locked in place, am I clear/safe to back out the crankshaft nut so I can remove the pulley and the timing cover, chain, chain guide, etc. Let me know if I can provide more context

I do not have one. I've been using hand tools up until this point. So far haven't broken a single bolt even on exhaust. That said, I'm not trying to win any awards here. I think I've just been lucky.

Hi folks - hope you all had a nice weekend and got a chance to turn a wheel or wrench. I happened to enjoy a "first timer" moment when I pulled my M10 out the top of my 69. Huge milestone as I've never been in this deep into a 2002 so the next few days of learning and disassembly are going to be really satisfying. Making sure to take it slow and methodical. With that in mind, I could use a little help from you kind folks. Here is the flywheel with what looks to be a secure plate over the 6 bolts. It's stuck on there pretty good and my plan is to gently pry it off so I can remove the flywheel. Any tips on how best to remove? Next. As you can see, I'm having a real issue with getting this 19mm bolt free from the timing chain tensioner. It's been soaked in PB and I figure it would be easier to remove now than after removing the cover. Can I use heat here if necessary? What the best practice in removing the 30mm crankshaft nut? I have a breaker bar but want to be careful. Will i need a puller for the pulley? thank you, thank you! Joe

This thread is giving me hope for the pistons I'm about to knock out. Thanks for posting and keep us updated with pics and progress

Congrats on your 2002. To have a running project is a great start and something to appreciate. Enjoy the process of problem solving and try to focus on one issue at a time. And share your progress. We all benefit when you do. Good luck!

thank you Esty! just sent an email through you site.

My mistake @esty - I added the wrong image. Below is my incomplete cluster. But maybe it's still not correct for a 69? My cluster looks like it has the silver rings...clearly needs a good rebuild and clean.

My car somehow doesn’t have its original tach. Looking for a replacement to go in my 69. Might you have a spare to sell? Appreciate it! Joe

Progress report for anyone following: Guibo and drive shaft are off the car. That should be a right of passage in and of itself - especially when one can accomplish without breaking a bolt. That damn guibo and the whole '4 bolts can come out while the other 4 push back to the trans' business is a real sonabitch. Things worked out when I freed up the center bearing where I found enough play to wriggle it free. How bout this center support rubber bearing....😳 Engine is coming out through the top simply because i have a conveniently place i beam in the garage with a chain fall. I'll lower the trans this weekend after I pull the shifter assembly. Appreciate everyone's input and POVs. This is good fun.

I'm feeling this, too. Now that the exhaust/trans support bracket is off Haynes (along with several posts here) are saying to remove shift assembly THEN unbolt drive shaft from Guibo. It would be a lot easier to remove the drive shaft / guibo THEN attack the shifter assembly. Why not pull the entire drive shaft. It's all gotta go plus would be in the way of backing the trans away from the motor. OYE!

Roger copy all this. Ok so job 1 (if not pulling them as one unit) lower the trans THEN lift the motor. good note to tie the drive shaft up. I have some heavy gauge wire that will do this nicely. And yeah, you don't have to go too far on that limb. all the things either need renewed or replaced in this old girl. Except the dash. the dash is great. Love my "no action required" dash. thanks again! Will update the ol'blog when complete

Hi all, I'm down to the bellhousing bolts and engine mounts before lifting the engine (my first tbh) up up and away. I'd like to pull the motor without dropping the tranny—at least initially. Once I free the union between motor and tranny and pull the motor forward before lifting up, is the tranny going to want to slump without the support of being connected to the motor? It would seemingly rest on the center link so my thought would be to wedge a pice of wood or thick foam between the bottom of the trans and center link to give a sort of resting spot for the tranny until I can lower it. With the wheels straight there's roughly 2" overhang. Obv less if the wheels were to somehow turn which is a risk. I can't imagine the center link to deflect too much, right? As you can see in the pic, without the fan and rad i have plenty of room to move the engine forward, freeing from tranny before lifting. When i do that, what should i expect the trans to do? Thank you! Joe

Hey there, no apologies needed. I have a similar household. I'm really excited about the idea of a custom / bolt on unit. I also think your price for parts and material is reasonable. I'm thinking of two things: 1. I'd like to use my cars manual choke pull to control the carb. I need to make sure that's possible with this specific Weber. Perhaps you have a part number so I can make sure? I like the water choke but would prefer a cleaner bay without added hoses plus having full control of the carb at start up. 2. I'm thinking about the height of this unit and if it will make contact with my hood. I've read about this concern with JAM adapters. Do you have any experience with this issue and/or ensuring I won't run into this? Thanks! joe

Odd as it sounds this actually simplifies my life and wasting time solving for what may not actually be an issue. Wish me luck! Will follow when the deed is done. Appreciate the input

I was hoping for this but the pistons are still stuck in place. I'm using a combo of acetone and ATF as my penetrating oil. The exhaust valve is open on cyl 1 and intake valve open on cyl 2 - so looking for cyl 2 and 3 to be moving downward with my mallet. Aside from the rings possibly being frozen to the bore is there anything else that could cause an engine not to rotate? For example, I notice the clutch pedal seems to be completely disengaged meaning I can travel the pedal all the way in and it doesnt recoil back to return. thought this might be because the slave is shot and there's not fluid in the system. I guess I'm wondering if this could be linked to the crank not turning.

Yeah, I agree. The bores are decent. Please call it out to my untrained eye if you see something that you'd suspect is a crack