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No update for a while, so time to remedy that! Did a few odds and ends to prepare for the FI side of the Megasquirt Tested sensors were reading correctly - Coolant and Intake temperature and TPS Now the EDIS has been working for a few months without any problems i finally got round to removing the distributor and replacing with a plug Mocked up the adapter to attach the Throttle body (from a Hyundai Elantra!) to the 318i manifold Mockup made from MDF And a heavy (but solid) throttle cable linkage welded up. Haven't progressed much further on the Megasquirt side of things, planning to go to FI next year, meanwhile Changed my Nardi for this wooden one from a MX5. I prefer the look of the Leather/Aluminium one i had on, but this size is just perfect for me so it stays on! After suffering from sitting on the tired and sagging standard seats, and weighing up the cost of refurbing them (not cheap), i decided to use the Honda Integra seats i already had. The problem i had with them is they did not adjust far enough back and using the Honda runners the seat was not centered on the steering wheel, which bugged me when i was driving. I fabricated mounts to enable me to use the BMW adjusters and also centre the seat - they work perfectly, now i just need to find a way to cover them up! I also trimmed down the brake pads on my Volvo BB conversion, to avoid the overhang not wearing down and interfering with the movement of the pads. One edge cut with a hacksaw, you can see on the uncut part where the edge of the disc is Both edges cut And smoothed over Obviously not the ideal solution as pad area is still lost, but the benefit of larger vented discs is still there. My focus then moved for a month to my daily driver - a Corolla KE70, the engine was on 3 cylinders and the water pump sprung a leak so i took the opportunity to upgrade to a 5K engine with a Weber 28/36 carb and mild cam - very happy with the final result And then back on topic - next stage in the project, rear end refurb and tidy up. I thought i would try refurbing parts as i removed them so when it came to the rebuild i wouldn't be waiting on cleaning stuff up and tempted to cut corners. First off were the petrol tank and rear bumper. As removed Paint stripped off - surface rust only, revealing previous repair, looks like a professionally done brazed patch, didnt leak before so alls well! After treating with phosphoric acid, Brunox epoxy applied to previously rusted areas And 2 coats of Epoxy primer sprayed on And finally stone chip coating applied to the underneath only TBh the rear bumper was pretty rusty on the inside, so without going to the expense of a new bumper i did the best i could Worst of rust removed with wire brush on an angle grinder and then treated with brunox And then 2 pack epoxy primer Rear end now supported by the sills ready for subframe removal. And finally a NZ Native Weta decided to pay the BM a visit so i took a photo - he was later released into the wild!

This was my starting point (very conservative), you are welcome to use it but this was for a standard engine with a Solex single barrel carb! Also make sure your advance shown on the Megajolt is actually same as the advance on the crank pulley checked with a timing light! Screen+Shot+2014-03-20+at+6.43.06+pm+V1.png Also heres a link to my blog with a bit of stuff about how i did the EDIS install http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/134019-73-fjord-with-megasquirt/page-2

I dont think you will regret getting this setup, the adjustability and rock solid timing are fantastic. If you havent got one already i would consider investing in a wideband O2 sensor which makes tuning much easier, especially if you can datalog (not sure if you can do this with Megajolt?). I started off with a conservative curve, basically copying a distributors advance curve and then started adding a couple of degrees of advance, by about the 8th version i had a pretty nice curve which transformed the performance. Of course the best way would be on a Dyno, but im cheap!

And if you thread the line from the front with the engine in disconnect the battery first- ask me how I know!

+2 on timing check - hot exhaust manifold can indicate timing too retarded

I used the bread trick and it worked perfectly for me, i watched this YouTube clip before taking the plunge

I followed this novel method for removing the pilot bearing, it took 2 slices! I have used grease before but this was more effective (and cleaner!)

i followed this video from DIY Autotune My MS is sitting at the centre console and the relay board down the side of the engine bay http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/134019-73-fjord-with-megasquirt/page-2 3/4 of the way down the page. Sorry just thought mine is RHD so positioning may not work so well, its there for what its worth!

One step back, two steps foward! Had a minor setback that could have turned into a major, i needed to remove the adjustable brake bias valve (illegal in NZ without a cert) i replaced it with a straight run of pipe and decided the best way was to pull it through from the front via the engine bay, along the gearbox and reconnect with the T near the rear axle. Unfortunately while pulling the pipe through it contacted the starter motor positive feed (direct from the battery in the trunk and grounded itself on the first piece of metal it touched which happened to be the dipstick - arc welding sounds, flames and the smell of burning rubber ensued. I crawled out from under the car, grabbed the fire extinguisher and after emptying the contents of it into the engine bay put out the small fire on the top of the dipstick, i then went to the battery and disconnected the negative terminal. The result - Hindsight is a wonderful thing - what i should have done was disconnected the battery before starting, lesson learned so i installed (rather crudely) a battery isolator The good news was most of the pink powder from the extinguisher blew off easily ( theres still some there to remind me of my stupidity) and more importantly no electrics including the megasquirt were damaged. I needed to replace the dipstick and but a new piece of brake pipe - which was installed without drama My main focus has been tuning the megasquirt, first i had to install the Wideband Gauge temporarily installed in the console with the megasquirt box sitting under it, after calibrating the O2 sensor was screwed into the bung (at 12 o'clock behind the 2 into 1 collector). Tested it standalone and then connected to the megasquirt, all working well although there is a small difference in the AFR on the gauge and that showing in Tuner Studio, i need to adjust the calibration in TS. Over the last couple of weeks i have been gradually adjusting the advance curve map. I realise that the only way to relly do it properly is on a dyno but for now the seat of the pants, looking at logs and very gradual adjustments will have to do because 1) I'm too tight to pay for a dyne and 2) Im fuel only ATM and wont put it on a dyno until the injection is done because - refer to 1)! Very happy with the results of the testing so far. There was a huge improvement in the first place simply from changing from a worn out distributor to edis/megasquirt giving me rock steady timing instead of a wildly bouncing flywheel ball. I set the timing to a fixed 25 degrees and strobed the inspection hole and there it was -the ball bearing sitting steady in the correct place. That confirmed the toothed wheel/VR sensor were positioned correctly. I then changed back to use map and started with this very conservative map, based roughly on a standard distributor curve and the 3D map After a few runs to work with the laptop on the passenger seat im on the 5th version of the map Plenty more work to do but i feel like im heading in the right direction, certainely the engine has started to come alive. Its only running a single barrel solex so not much room for adjustment there, i set the idle jet using the Wideband it now idles at around 14:1 , cruises at about 13.5, under acceleration between 12 and 13.5 and decelerates (on overrun) around 16 to 17. If anyone has any input it would be gratefully received as I'm a total newbie to the tuning by laptop experience.

Nice clean motor you have there - im officially jealous! What carbs do you have on there?

I thought all the big Ford trucks over here got imported from the US? Theres a place called Bunce Motors but i think they only deal with GMC trucks. F450/350s are a pretty rare beast over here, maybe Aussie could be a better bet? Sorry i can't be more help, good luck with your search.

Thanks Guys, great info - this Forum rocks.

I received an email from Walloth and Nesch today, they have added solid rubber rear suspension mounts to their catalogue http://www.wallothnesch.com/gummilager-ha-motorsportausfuehrung-haertere-gummimischung-voll-ausgegossen-aussen-links-rechts-passend-33-18-09.html?___store=eng they are sold as 'for motorsport' but any opinions of the suitability of solid rubber for street use? My current rear setup is Jaymic lowering springs (30mm drop) and Billy Sports.

Thanks for your kind words. Glad to see (on MSExtra Forum) that your MS issues are getting resolved, i still have the fuel side of things to do !

Megasquirt Hookup Next stage was to hookup EDIS module (already confirmed to be working in limp mode) to the Megasquirt. Only 2 wires to connect to the relay. PIP which is the Tach signal in and SAW , the signal Megasquirt gives the EDIS to vary the spark advance. Before testing i tidied up the ground connections, EDIS and MS grounds all converge at the engine block. At this stage i hadn't access to a serial to USB to use my Macbook so bought out the desktop Windows PC to the garage! BTW i believe a Windows OS was needed to load the latest MSExtra Firmware to the MS, there isnt a Mac based loader available. Latest firmware loaded perfectly and so was ready to startup. Using Tuner Studio software and from info i gleaned from http://msextra.com i setup the ignition settings for EDIS and initially set the Fixed Timing to a fixed advance of 10 degrees and with everything crossed started up - motor fired up and after warming up i changed fixed advance to 15 degrees, burnt to controller and like magic the engine revs changed!!! Controlling my 40 year old Beemer from a computer, what a hoot . Map sensor was also showing me load from the takeoff below the inlet manifold so now i could build an advance table. Based on info from Megasquirt forums, FAQers posted tables, BMW distributor curves and a bit of guesswork i built a (hopefully) very conservative table shown above. I've been for a couple of short test drives and even with this unrefined table there is a marked improvement over the old worn distributor and with full spark advance control things should get even better. Package arrived from Amazon containing this USB to Serial cable (FTDI chip based) hooked up to my Macbook running 10.9 Mavericks and fired up Tuner Studio, went to communications tab, hit the detect button and it found the Megasquirt immediately. At this stage is working perfectly which is a relief as there appears to be a few USB/Serial/Mac issues out there. Also in the Amazon page was this http://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Motorsports-3844-Complete-All-In-One/dp/B004MDT8MW/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1389481703&sr=1-2 with free shipping to NZ on this it was too good a deal to ignore Next project sorted!!

Excellent, thanks guys, onwards and upwards!!

EDIT: Sorry Guys for wasting your time - i had another look this morning and found what i think is the perfect place to get manifold pressure from Is this a good spot to supply the map sensor with vacuum info?

I'm in the process of adding Megasquirt and the first stage is to add EDIS ignition http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/134019-73-fjord-with-megasquirt/page-2. I am unsure if i am able to use the vacuum take off from the Solex PDSI Carburettor to supply vacuum to the MAP sensor. There is only one take off on the solex and it is located just above the throttle butterfly. Or is there a more suitable point to get the vacuum from? This wont be the final fuel solution, i will either go to 318i Manifold or maybe ITBs but will run it for a few months in this configuration so it needs to be a useable but not necessarily perfect solution.

EDIS Installation First decision was where to mount the EDIS hardware, decided on these spots EDIS Controller close to the VR sensor to avoid too long a cable length - it seems from reading the Megasquirt forums that one of the major causes of problems was poor signals from the VR Sensor and i wanted to minimise signal interferance. Position was also well away from other causes of electrical noise. EDIS coilpack mounted (rather crudely but solidly) in position and using existing holes for the origional canister coil. This also allowed me to use the EDIS coil leads without modification, the lengths were perfect! Also decided to mount the Megasquirt Relay box at this Stage - the block of wood will be replaced with a block of rubber at a later stage with the intention of isolating vibration as much as possible. I also ran a separate 8 gauge wire from the battery in the trunk to the distibution box and then on to the relay box to try to minimise voltage drops when cranking. Switched power to activate the main power relay on the MS relay board was taken from Fuse 12 on the fusebox as it was 'hot' in run and when cranking. Ground from the relay board was to the engine and were the edis ground and shielded cable ground, all to the same point. Crank pulley removed from engine - no puller available but with some blocks of wood and wedges got it off with no damage. Tack welds on toothed wheel ground off and wheel removed After locating TDC using the flywheel OT line and mounting VR sensor i moved the toothed wheel around until the 9th tooth before the missing tooth lined up with the VR sensor, held it in place with hot glue and tack welded twice to secure. It then took a couple more attempts to centre the wheel on the crank pulley which i did by nearly grinding through the welds and tapping the wheel with a FBH then rewelding - got it on the third attempt! Access to a lathe would have been ideal to centre up but this did the trick. Put about 12 tack welds around the pulley to secure. At this stage i have aimed for a 1mm gap from wheel to VR sensor. All that remained was to wire up as this diagram (EDIS 4) Well not exactly as my EDIS controller had no pin 7 so i ran the sheilded cable from the VR sensor through the PIP/SAW sheilded cable to ground at the same point on the block as the MS Relay board and the EDIS Ground. I also left the PIP and SAW disconnected to test the EDIS alone in limp home mode. At each stage of wiring i checked for continuity and then for voltage where appropriate. I then connected one coil lead and spare plug and cranked motor - success - we have a spark! Put back fanbelt and radiator connected up all HT leads and cranked, and cranked and cranked - nothing. A little disheartened i pulled a plug and noticed it was dry? Removed air cleaner and then noticed the fuel line had come adrift from the inline filter! Reconnected fuel line, primed solex float bowl, turned up idle speed screw 1 turn and cranked, motor fired up 1st kick and after checking with timing light i have a rock solid 10 degree BTDC advance, exactly what it should be for EDIS running on its own in limp home mode - awesome!! I realise i still have a long way to go but this was really encouraging, the timing mark didnt move around at all, with the admitidly old and worn distributor the timing mark used to jump all over the place, now i have a stable starting point for building the Megasquirt advance curve Next step - connecting up the Megasquirt in car and building an advance curve

Car needs work but the backdrops primo - Rangitoto, Auckland, NZ

Great project thread. Personally i'd leave the cat hair on the cat and replace rusty holes with good steel or if extensive a rust cut of the tyre well, especiallly as you are doing such a thorough job of the rest of the car. Keep up the good work

Hi, Jaymic do headers for RHD cars http://www.jaymic.com/shop/parts_02_products.asp?grp=02EX&page=6 No idea how good they are but may be worth investigating? Seems expensive though, maybe getting a set made here could work out better? Sorry cant help with finding power - i doubt if mine is making more than 70hp at the moment ! Going with the webers must be tempting to be able to compete in a more appropriate class though. Cheers Chris

The muffler had developed a rattle, the center core with the holes in it had come adrift, instead of replacing it i decided to run without a front muffler. Pipe cut at rear and separated from manifold at the front, pipe was 46mm entering the muffler and 51mm leaving Old pipe carefully cut away from the downpipe. 300mm of 51mm (2") pipe welded onto the downpipe. After mocking up on the car i drilled a hole for a oxy sensor, there is space between the gearbox and tunnel to put the sensor in at 12 o'clock And bung welded in Downpipe mounted securely, the gearbox support bracket needed to be opened up to fit the 51mm pipe snugly. Then added a length of 51mm pipe flared at both ends and secured with exhaust brackets. The straight pipe needed a couple of kinks in it to get it to marry up with the rear section smoothly, but after a couple of attempts managed to position everything so it didnt hit diff housing/CV inner joint/ rear subframe! After driving for a couple of days, i think i will add a resonator at some point, its not unduly loud but it has a rasp to it that to be sounds a bit 'ricey"!! I prefer a burble to a rasp . I have also finally made a start on the Megasquirt side of things - i have felt a bit of a fraud about the "with megasquirt" part of the blog title so to put things right The test bed! No laptop but the old PC had a serial port so i loaded Tuner Studio and set up the relay board and Megasquirt, it powered up OK and after a couple of false starts managed to get the latest firmware loaded on the MS and Tuner Studio to talk to MS. The plan is to get the ignition side working first as I have all the components (EDIS), and i think i will see a good improvement to performance with a good advance curve and crank controlled timing instead of my worn distributor, dodgy advance springs and.rattly timing chain. I do love the simplicity of points but the benefits of this ignition alternative are too compelling to ignore - time will tell ( and i can always go back to points if modern technology gets the better of me ) Heres the 36 tooth wheel as mounted at present. Unfortunately the wheel is not mounted in the correct place to take advantage of the 10 degree BTDC 'limp home' mode that edis offers should the Megasquirt fail. At the stage i am thinking of repositioning the wheel on the pulley. Before i pull the pulley off i thought i would use my spare engine to mockup a new VR sensor mount, if i position the missing tooth 1 tooth BTDC then 90 degrees before that is where the VR sensor can be placed without fouling on the water pump bolt - its my understanding that as long as the engine is at TDC i can mount the toothed wheel anywhere, as long as the VR sensor is 90 degrees behind it?

Well its been a month, no major problems but had a couple of leaks that needed sorting - Brake MC leaked from day 1, took it to Just Brakes in Auckland (highly recommended) expecting it to need sleeving, good news was the bore was in excellent condition, just needed a light parallel hone and a new seal kit. I was expecting the bleeding to be a PITA but turned out to be easy, all the air bubbled out of the remote reservior with some light pumping of the pedal! Used this clamp to keep MC bolts in while i put the nuts on - have to be creative when theres no one around! Job was made so much easier with the engine bay clean and having only put it all together a few of months ago - didn't even spill any brake fluid! The second leak was the rocker cover, because previously the head had been skimmed but not the upper timing cover there was a .70mm gap between head and rocker cover, not good. Not wanting to remove timing cover at this stage i thought i would try this stuff Put .70mm washers under the studs on the head only and added gasket goo Result - Ugly but effective, been for a few runs and so far no rocker cover leaks Also started trying to get a bit of shine on the paint, used a claybar, meguires polish and then carnuba wax 1/2 done -They say you cant polish a turd but ill give it a go!

Im about to start a similar megasquirt project with the relay board and i was wonderingh ow are you powering the EDIS? I was thinking of using 2 of the 4 power takeoffs to run the injectors and 1 to power the EDIS leaving 1 spare?